Friday, October 10th through Sunday, October 12th, 2025 - Travels Through Old and New Victoria: Ballarat and Melbourne

The Butcher at Sovereign Hill, Ballarat

Less than 20 years after the Henty's had arrived in Western Victoria, gold was discovered in Ballarat, which is about 130 miles north east of Budj Bim. As happened in so many other parts of the world, people came from far and wide seeking their fortunes. No doubt, this accelerated the changes that led to the disappearance of the indigenous people and their culture. 

Life on the diggings was pretty basic. An old mine here, the Red Hill Mine, has been re-fashioned into a 'living museum', called Sovereign Hill, which represents the conditions that existed in the first ten years on Ballarat's goldfields. Fran and I were a little skeptical that might be 'plastic' and commercial, but as the history of gold mining here was one of our motivations for visiting the town, we thought we'd better go and see it. We  were pleasantly surprised. Our first encounter was with this young butcher in the photo above. Sadly, there was a pretty limited choice of meat here. All he could offer was 'mutton' - not even lamb was available - in spite of the signage. I expect the mutton was pretty tough!

Maybe the Coffee Will be Better

When we stopped off at a nearby tent to check out the coffee possibility, things were not much better. The woman representing the character of this coffee and soup seller didn't inspire confidence in her choices when she indicated that the water supply she used was the nearby stream, which was used to pan for gold. It looked pretty dirty to me.

A Rum Baby

Maybe she did a poor job of selling her coffee and soup, because she really preferred to sell us a more profitable beverage. She ducked into her tent and wanted to show us her 'rum baby'. What on earth is that? we wondered. When she pulled back the baby blanket, we could see it was a cask that would have contained either whiskey or rum. The government, in their wisdom, had banned the sale of alcohol on the goldfields in the hope of preventing crime and disorder. So, of course, the first step to get a drink was to commit a crime, by purchasing it on the black market through sellers like this woman. She said that she had to be careful that the coppers don't find out, hence she disguised the cask as her 'baby'. 

It's possible that this 'baby' met a better fate than real babies on the diggings. There were high rates of death among babies and children due to waterborne diseases like dysentery and gastroenteritis. They were also at risk from infectious diseases like diphtheria and scarlet fever.

Slab Hut - High-End Living

Most prospectors would have lived in tents upon arrival, unless they were already people of means. If they were lucky and hit on some of the precious metal, they might move into a more luxurious place, like this slab hut, especially if they were expecting wives and children to join them.

Do You Think The Woman of This House Appreciated Her Lot?

The re-enactor in this hut told us that life for the women was pretty hard. They had to find firewood, and water for cooking and laundry, find provisions and take care of children. The man's role, in contrast, was pretty straightforward - out the door and off to the diggings.

Prospecting Tourists at the Diggings

I suspect the process of finding gold might not have been as easy as today's tourist experiences. The sources of gold was alluvial  - finding it involved simple methods such as panning, sluicing, rocker boxes and digging shallow shafts. Miners would approach each day with the possibility that this could be the one in which they could find their fortune. The addictive reward upon finding any gold would keep then coming back day after day.

This Was More Like it! Brrr!

This is probably more like the everyday experience of a prospector, although they probably would not have wanted to have too many others nearby, just in case they hit the big find! We are here in spring, but it was still a blustery, cold morning. Fran and I decided that is was way too cold for us to join this activity. I imagine for the miners, it must have been very bitter in winter and hot in summer. In the beginning, the hazards were more environmental - poor housing, poor sanitation and dangers from other miners like theft and claim jumping.

Chinese Camp

A group that was more likely to experience violence in the gold mines, were the Chinese miners. They had distinct practices that were different from the other European miners and worked longer hours in cooperatives. This often yielded better results than those from other parts of the world. Add racism, xenophobic attitudes, and rumors that they brought disease and they are set up to be targets for resentment and violence, which in some places led to riots. The Victorian government created laws in 1855, aiming to 'protect' the Chinese. The methodology was to limit the number arriving through Victorian ports and charging a ten pound poll tax. It appointed 'protectors' to manage populations on the gold fields collecting fees and supposedly protecting them from attack. An outcome of these laws was the concentration of the Chinese miners in separate camps.

Chinese Grocery Store

The model Chinese section led me to think that they probably had a much better diet. We saw pig pens and gardens within the Chinese compound and this display suggested they also were able to have access to fish in their diet.

In response to the discriminatory regulations, many Chinese arrivals avoided the poll tax by landing in South Australia and walking the 250 miles to the gold fields. One group of 700 Chinese miners found a significant gold field in Ararat, in 1857, while making this journey. Sadly, by 1860, resentments toward their success led to the worst riots against the Chinese in Australian history (Lambing Flat Riots). All of the regulatory attempts resulting from these situations set the seeds for the later, nationwide laws to limit migration from non-Europeans in the form of the White Australia Policies, which I described in the September 13th and 14th blog from our Chinatown food tour in Sydney. 

Replica of Red Hill Mine

As it became more difficult to find alluvial gold, deeper, large scale mines began. The site of this museum was the deep Red Hill Mine, where this replica has been built. This is a more dangerous form of mining, subject to rockfalls and ground collapses, along with poor air quality and other dangers. This type of mining had shut down by 1917, but more modern, deeper techniques were established with the Ballarat Gold Mine in 2011, which operates today as deep as 2,000 feet under the city.   

Replica of the 'Welcome Nugget' - 139 Pounds of Gold

In 1958, 22 Cornish miners found this huge lump of gold in the Red Hill Mine, at a depth of 180 feet. It is the second largest nugget ever found in Australia and was wheeled to the treasury in Ballarat in a wheelbarrow because of its weight. In todays currency it would be worth 5.5 million USD dollars for its melt value. It was melted into gold bars and sold to the Bank of England which turned it into coins. I imagine it created quite a stir. The mine was owned by  the Wittkowski Brothers, but the arrangement with the miners meant that the profits were shared. The fate of the 22 miners is not recorded.

Main Street, Sovereign Hill

I addition to the models of the earliest days of the gold rush, this 'living' museum includes reconstructions of the early days of the town of Ballarat. For some, there was more profit in opening a business to serve the needs of the miners, than in working a claim. The quality and detail of these buildings gave a really good 'feel' for what life might have been like.

Faithful Reconstructions of Ballarat Early Days

The buildings are a faithful reproduction of businesses that existed in the early days. They were more than facades, the interiors were fully stocked and many goods were available for sale. It was very well done.

Local School Teacher

There were many people walking the street in period costume which enhanced the 'feeling' of actually being in the 1850's. I stopped this man to ask for a photo. He was walking with several school age children, also in period costume. He said he is a teacher from a local state school, who is spending several days here with his students. He agreed to pose, but asked that I not photograph the children.

A Gathering of Volunteers

The woman on the right, was one of the school teachers who created an old-style experience of school life for modern students. The two men were volunteers who come in from the community to provide historical information and suggestions on what to see, for people like us. These volunteers were engaging and helpful and went out of their way to be helpful.

Mischievousness Looks Better in Old Clothes!

My camera was drawn to this small group of boys in a little nook, out of sight from the teachers. Who knows what they were up to, but it seemed to me there was an agelessness and slight sense of mischief about their play. It was pleasing to not see a single screen in sight and boys playing with simple things - one is chewing on a blade of grass, another holding one in his hand. I was also mischievous by snapping this shot!

Teacher at Wesleyan Day School

There were three systems of schools represented. On was called the Ragged School, which provided education, food, and clothing to destitute children who were unable to attend a regular school due to poverty. They were usually run by charities or churches. The teacher above was in the Wesleyan Day School, which was a private school for more affluent families. It looks as if I might have interrupted her getting a bite to eat, although there is no sign of food on her desk. The cane looks ominous - they used to use it on naughty children when I was in school. 

Redhill National School

The third one was the Redhill National School, which was the state sponsored school. They were not free, but would be less expensive than the private schools.

Shopkeeper's Houses

There was also a variety of homes that had been faithfully reconstructed. 

Volunteer Knitter

Stepping inside, we were delighted to find ladies from the community who volunteer their time to educate visitors about the cottages. This one belonged to a woman whose husband had been killed. She was fortunate to have some skills, so she set herself up in business to make hats for ladies.

Lady's Bonnet

Here is one of her hats. It was a two room cottage with a kitchen in the back, so she was doing pretty well with her business.

So, What Century Are We in?

I enjoyed the faces of these women so much, that I've just got to share another. These were local volunteers who represented the people who would have lived in the houses one and a half centuries ago. I thought it makes a timeless image.

Welsummer Rooster

There were some chickens and hens in the area, too, as well as vegetable gardens. This fellow was strikingly handsome.

A Windy Day

When we returned to the main street, it was very windy. The road was not sealed, so the wind whipped up the fine sand, getting in one's teeth and eyes.

Ride, Please

We left Sovereign Hill very pleased with the time we had spent there. The period costumed characters in the displays and the streets gave it an active, authentic feel, through which we felt as if we were really able to get a sense of how life would have been in the past, even down to the grittiness of the streets in the wind and cold.

Art Deco in St. Kilda, Melbourne

Our next, and final destination, was St. Kilda, an inner suburb of Melbourne on the shore of Port Phillip. To say that we were travel weary by now, would be an understatement, but we had chosen this location in hope of being able to see the fairy penguins that have established a colony on the St. Kilda Pier. 

St. Kilda Pier

Armed with the necessary information from Google, we knew these little birds start arriving home from their day out in the ocean at sunset. This was going to be a highlight of our visit, so in spite of our tiredness, we were psyched and headed off to the pier.

Well, sometimes Google doesn't tell the whole picture. We arrived to find that the gates to the viewing platform were closed at 5 pm, while sunset was at 7:30 pm. Word among the gathered hopefuls was that they have it closed because the people who manage the gates are concerned that the new crop of penguins would be spooked by the crowds, so they are limiting access until they get older. Oh, no! Hopes were dashed!

View From the Boat (Photo by Frances Peters)

But we were determined to see these adorable creatures and found a boat the following night that leaves from the pier and trolls along the breakwater where they roost. Oh, they were a joy to see - I so wish the photo you see could really show them at their best. Fran did a much better job than me, at catching a halfway decent photo, but the conditions of the situation didn't lend itself to good photography. It was dark, we couldn't use flash - had to only use red light to illuminate them - and we were in a moving boat trying to photograph moving birds. However, you can see them here.

Listen For the Sounds of the Birds in the Background

These little birds are the world's smallest penguin, standing about a foot tall. They swim out to sea in the early morning hours where they dive for fish, squid and krill. They dive for about 20-35 seconds and have been seen to dive as deep as 180 feet! That must be like flying underwater. They stay together in rafts as they move around the ocean and especially when they are coming ashore - most likely safety in numbers from predators. Although they are 'socially' monogamous, they are sexually promiscuous and will copulate with four to five partners during the night. We even noticed them 'in the act' as we watched from the boat. Once the eggs are laid the pair take turns to incubate them, taking turns of three to four days each. 

Many people take the trek out to Phillip Island, which is about two hours south-east of Melbourne to see them coming ashore. Our schedule in Melbourne, for our last few days, was pretty tight, so we were pleased that we were able to see them nearby.  However, Phillip Island is famous for their 'Penguin Parade', when rafts of the birds come ashore across the sandy beach, to find their burrows. Here's a link to a video of that event, with a humorous voice over.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed4lKSF-sVg

St Kilda Sea Baths 

St Kilda was established in the mid-1800's - that time when the gold rushes were happening - and was a favored suburb for the Melbourne elite, with palatial mansions. B the 1930's it had become one of the most densely populated suburbs and later fell into decline. It has gone through a more recent gentrification and is now a sought after area again.  

St Kilda Esplanade Market

We were headed into Melbourne to visit Southbank on the Yarra River and the National Gallery of Victoria, nearby. We enjoyed browsing the stalls of St. Kilda's Esplanade Market on the way. 

Dancing Pumpkin, Yayoi Kusama, 2020, Bronze, Urethane Paint, National Gallery of Victoria

The Gallery was free, so I stuck my nose in for a moment. I really like this work which must have stood 16 feet high. I've never seen a pumpkin quite like it! It must have been cross-bred with an octopus!

Invasion of the Tapeworms?

I wanted to explore an area of the city that didn't exist when I lived here 60 years and more ago (Oh, my! Really! Makes me feel old, doesn't it!), and Fran was interested in the Art Gallery, so Fran and I decided to go in different directions on this day. 

This little courtyard was between the art gallery and the performing arts center on St. Kilda Road. I loved these odd figures with their little feet and antennae.  I've been searching furiously for the title of this sculpture, but the artist must remain anonymous, as I can't find a reference to it anywhere. My apologies to it's creator. I loved the earthy feel it evokes. I could see there was a great deal of smoke coming from behind them and discovered it was a 'Welcome to Country' smoking ceremony for dancers that had come to perform in a DanceX festival.

Pro-Palestinian Demonstration

Nearby, I found a large crown going down St. Kilda Road, as part of a pro-Palestine demonstration. They were headed to the US Embassy several miles south of here. It was one of many that were held across Australia at the same time, said to have drawn tens of thousands out across the country. There were many signs objecting to the happenings in Gaza. It was peaceful with a great deal of police presence. I've included this photo, as I have never seen the Australian flag like this, with the Union Jack cut out of it. I presume it was an anti-colonial statement, which might be advocating for Australia to break its ties with Britain, and become a republic.

Southbank Pedestrian Bridge to Flinders Street Station, Melbourne

Melbourne is the capital city of Victoria, with a population of close to seven million people. The commercial district is situated on the north side of the Yarra River. When I lived here in the 1950's and 60's, we referred to the Yarra as 'upside down' river, as it was muddy and was not regarded as a place of beauty. As has happened in Brisbane and London, along with other cities on rivers, the potential of the south side of the river - opposite the city center - was recognized in the 1970's and the area was officially targeted for redevelopment in 1984. A promenade was built in the 1990's, transforming it from its industrial character to become a hive of residences and entertainment.

The only thing I could recognize was good old Flinders Street Station, which is where we would get off the train when we came to the city. I always remember the bars that were situated on Flinders Street, which were always crowded at the end of the day with men having a drink on their way home from work. Laws restricted drinking hours, requiring pubs to close at 6 pm, so this was their only chance. The hope that this restrictive law would curb drunkennes,s probably led to many men arriving home already intoxicated!

As females, we were not allowed in the tiled, characterless rooms, that resembled urinals. The sounds and smells that emanated through the open doors as we passed were memorable. They were loud, testosterone-filled rooms, with lots of smoke and the smell of beer flowing. I found it all rather frightening.  

Modern Melbourne CBD, Looking North

The CBD has grown up, too. The only thing I recognized here, was the Orange spire of St. Pau'l's Cathedral, which was probably the highest thing around when I visited long ago.

The Sandridge Bridge - Looking West

Even though I was not in the gallery, there was art all around me. This one on the Sandridge Bridge is called The Travellers, by Nadim Karam. The metal figures apparently depict Melbourne's indigenous roots and the waves of immigration that have occurred through the city's history. I found it hard to 'see' the figures, as they always seemed out of focus. It was originally a railway bridge but was made into a pedestrian bridge with the sculptures. Apparently that move on some type of loop in 15 minute intervals, but I did not notice that. 

'Queen Be'e by Richard Stringer, Eureka Building, Southbank

This installation of golden bees on the side of a skyscraper was in better focus. It is the tallest building in Melbourne and I loved seeing this collection of bees on the side of it.

Street Art. or Mural?

There were also some vivid murals on the wall of an underpass. I couldn't find any information about the artist, but I liked the image of the adult and child walking toward the sunrise....or sunset?

Creating the Land?

I also liked the whimsy of this one, which suggested that children are our future - puffing the world into existence.

Ooh, Yes! A Pirate!

Another of my favorite types of street art are living statues. I was psyched to see this 'pirate' and told 'it' that I know all about pirates as I come from Fernandina Beach!

A Wink!

So I was pretty thrilled when I got a wink after putting some money in his tip box. I thought he had a lovely blue eye in amongst all that ochre!

Uh, Oh, Where Have I Landed?

It was also a great deal of fun to discover that I was walking through a crowd of people who were attending a gaming convention at the Convention Centre along the south bank of the Yarra River. It was the last day of an event called PAX Aus 2025 and it was fun to see people dressed up in their characters.

The Face Beneath the Mask

I didn't recognize any of the characters, but when I stopped and talked to this fellow, he agreed to unmask for a photo. He and his friends said they had made their own costumes - some used foam, some from 3D-printing templates. I was impressed. I have no idea how one could make them look so realistic.

Lots of Photography was Happening

Many of the characters were busy recording the moment in serious ways. Some were assuming fighting postures to get action shots.......

Contemplation

......others were just happy to pose in a contemplative mood.

The Sun Casts an Evening Glow

I had thoroughly enjoyed my wander, but the glow of the afternoon sun and my knee both announced that it was time to head back to the Art Gallery and meet up with Fran again, to enjoy our last meal together. I had discovered that the Melbourne of the past was long gone. Our time here was brief, so perhaps it will take another visit for me to decide the merits of the new city that has replaced it. I've always favored Sydney in my heart, but Melbourne has a reputation for great food, arts and culture. I barely tipped my toes into any of those.

Jacaranda in Bloom, Murwillumbah

The following day, Frances went on to enjoy some time in Hobart and I flew back to the North Coast to spend time with family. I did not break out my big camera* again, but this jacaranda was so stunning, I had to capture that magical color with my cell phone.

Following time on the Gold Coast, I spent time to catch up with myself and other family and friends in Canberra, before heading back home to Florida. I was profoundly pleased with the time I spent here, appreciating the many varieties of beauty we experienced. It was also the first time I had visited 'the Outback' and attempted a deeper dive into the history, culture and experience of the indigenous people here. 

 I appreciate those of you who have travelled with me through this blog and hope you will join me whenever and wherever I venture forth next time.

* Both Fran and I carried Samsung S25 Ultra cell phones. She spent some time learning about settings and did a great job capturing excellent images. I mostly used my Nikon Z50ii and switched mostly between a 18-140mm lens and 50-250mm when I wanted a longer zoom. 

If this is your first Australian trip with me and would like to see more images from other places, here is the first entry from my time here in 2024, https://wordlywanderer.blogspot.com/2024/07/sunday-june-30th-to-wednesday-july-3rd.html, and 2017, https://wordlywanderer.blogspot.com/2017/01/saturday-january-28th-2017-far-south.html