Saturday and Sunday, July 23rd and 24th, 2022 - 8,000 Miles and An Eternity From Home - Alchi, Ladakh

The distance between Florida and Ladakh is 7,942 miles, but in fact, I believe I have travelled two centuries in time!

Wheat Harvest, Alchi

I start with this photo, even though it isn't the greatest, as it shows the four white cars in the background that have brought me to Alchi. I joined up with the group as planned. We are eight photographers, with our tour leader, Nathan Horton, two local guides and four drivers.

The people in the foreground are harvesting the wheat crop early in the morning.

Wheat Harvest Alchi

In this photo, you can clearly see the areas that have been harvested already and you can also see the beautiful setting in which they work in the summer.

Gleaning the Wheat Field, Alchi

Before I left home, I read a couple of books about Ladakh. One was 'A Journey in Ladakh' by Andrew Harvey. The other was 'Ancient Futures' by Helen Norberg-Hodges. From them I learned that nothing is wasted in Ladakh. What a delight it was to arrive, and see the evidence of that right before my eyes! Not only is the wheat harvested by hand, but the field is then totally cleaned to provide additional fodder for the animals in the winter.

Gleaning the Wheat Field, Alchi

Most of those who were harvesting, were seated. This younger woman was working on her feet. I immediately thought it was as good as a yoga lesson as a way to start the day.

Phone Break During Gleaning, Alchi

Note, however, that she did take a phone break.

The Wheat is Bundled, Alchi

After being harvested, the wheat is then carried across the field and put into bundles.......

Carrying the Harvest to the Village - Alchi

....... which are then carried out of the field. While we only saw men carrying them on this day, we have seen women carrying very heavy-looking loads, too. The straps that are used to create the carrier, are used for many other loads - it seems a very versatile system.

Wheat Stored in the Village, Alchi

Some of the wheat might be sold, no doubt some might be ground into flour, but would need to be winnowed first........

Winnowing the Wheat, Alchi

  .......and it's easier to carry the grain separate from the wheat! (Although you can bet that chaff gets used! LOL!) I came upon this winnowing party while wandering on my own - the family appears to be having a nice cup of tea, while Dad does the job of separating the chaff from the grain. I had also read in my books, hat the Ladakhi's have more leisure time than we do, even though their life looks tough. This photo suggests work and leisure might be often combined. I thought it a lovely sight - I just wish I had felt braver on my own to walk closer for a better photo.

A Useful Roof, Alchi

It seems that the roofs of the houses are vital for drying things, so it is likely that the wheat may be stored on a roof before being stashed in the attic space for the long winter. The example above appears to be drying grass, or some other crop. They have about a three month growing season, so it is a busy time for them to be sure they have the provisions for the winter.

The Fields of Alchi Village

Obviously life is hard, but to me, this looks like a view worth getting up for every day! Away from the rivers, the land is very dry. This town only had 932 people living in it in 2011. These were not the only fields, but there did not appear to be enormous arable space. 

Irrigation Channels, Alchi

The water is spread through irrigation channels and diverted from one field to another as needed. The paddle looking things you see there, are inserted into the gate to determine the direction of the water flow.

The Harvest is Ready, in Alchi

I don't think the combine harvesters leave behind such a lovely sight. No doubt, it has been like this for millennia.

A Happy Recipient of the Harvest

Not only do the humans benefit from their labors without outside help, the animals that provide other necessities, also benefit.

Mud Bricks Drying in a Field, Alchi

A lot of the rocks have a high clay content, which makes perfect mud. In Ladakh, not even the mud is wasted - it is pressed into bricks, which are then used to build their homes.

A Newer Home in Alchi

How nice would it be, if you want a new home, to press some mud, dry it off, assemble it into walls with more mud as cement, then add stucco and whitewash! It takes a lot of work, usually neighbors help, but you don't have to take out a mortgage. During the long winter there is time to do the lovely carvings that decorate the window frames. Because there is not much precipitation, the roofs do not need to have a pitch, thus providing a wonderful space away from larger critters for storing and drying.

Cow Dung Being Dried for Fuel, Alchi

I hope you're starting to believe me when I say nothing is wasted in Ladakh. You will probably tire of hearing it! Of course, in a place that has few trees, wood for cooking and winter heat is very scarce and unsustainable. As occurs in many other places around the world, dung is dried for that fuel source. It apparently is harmful to people's health. I have seen gas canisters being carried, so it is possible this is another fuel being used now and I have read of efforts to utilize solar power to resolve this issue - passive solar for heating the house and other systems for cooking.

Apricots Drying on a Roof

 Apricots are an important crop in Ladakh, and the season is just beginning to boom. The trees are laden, people sell them from the roadside and they are dried whole on roofs. They don't end like up the tender dried apricots we get - the pit is in them and they are very hard. But if you let them sit in your mouth a while they present a nice snack.

Mother and her Son Filter Apricot Seeds From the Waterway

I promise this will be my last 'nothing is wasted in Ladakh' story for the day! I came across this mother and her son. She was gathering orange-looking water in her container from a pipe and he had a big colander. The bucket by his knee was where he put whatever they were finding. I stopped to ask what they were doing. They said they collect the apricot seeds, which drop on the ground from the trees - they don't manage to harvest them all (Uh, oh, does that blow my waste theory?). When they have filtered out the pits, they crack them and use the kernels to press for oil, which is used for cooking, medicinal, cosmetic and religious purposes. I was impressed at their effort.

The Alchi Kitchen

In addition to having a monastery that is over 1,000 years old, this little town of around 1,000 people has another claim to fame. It has a restaurant, The Alchi Kitchen, that won a National Award which was presented by the Prime Minster of India. I suspect that cooking is not done over a dung fire!

Nilza Wangmo, Owner of The Alchi Kitchen

Our group ate there - it was very good, the best we've had so far. The owner explained the menu options for us. You can see the photo of her presentation from the Prime Minister to the left of her head. Here is a link to her story. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nilza_Wangmo. 

'Namaste', symbol at Local Market

Although this area so far has been dominated by Buddhism. I leave you with the Hindu mantra 'Namaste' because I found this lovely red symbol for it at the market. The other characters on the tree are Naga Kanya, an elemental nymph who is associated with good fortune and abundance. She holds a conch shell in her hand, in case you were wondering! And so, with this I now say Namaste until next time.

Thursday, July 21st and Friday, July 22nd - Leh, Ladakh, First Impressions

 Seven years ago, I had enjoyed a journey to Bhutan, the last of the Himalayan Kingdoms that has survived as a monarchy. I was so entranced by that visit and my exposure to the artistry and spirit of Tibetan Buddhism, that I have wanted to return and visit some of the other kingdoms, even though they no longer exists as such. 

Map of the Region

Moving from east to west, their fates have been varied. Arunchal is disputed territory between China and India, Bhutan became a Westminster style democracy in 2007, Sikkim became an Indian state in 1975, Nepal became a Federal Democratic Republic after tumultuous events in 2008, an has strong Maoist representation and Ladakh became part of India after partition in 1947. Until 2019, it was part of the Jammu and Kashmir Autonomous Region, but is now recognized as it's own state. There were a  number of smaller kingdoms, but it's complicated! The culture of all of these regions was heavily influenced by the form of Buddhism practiced in Tibet, and we know the sad history of Tibet's invasion by the Chinese in the 1950's.

Indira Ghandi International Airport, New Delhi at 4 am

So, I was reminded that the word travel derives from the Old French word 'travail', as I stood in this line to get documents checked before I could even enter the airport. The word travail means "Bodily or mental labor or toil, especially of a painful or oppressive nature; exertion; trouble; hardship; suffering" and I was definitely feeling it about now!

(Note that the gentleman in front of me demonstrated how to wear a mask with a turban - I could see it would be a problem as the ears are nicely tucked away and regular masks would not have enough elastic to go over the turban.)

First signs of the land as we approach Leh

Ladakh is on the northern side of the Himalaya mountains, so it is a rain shadow and human life exists only by virtue of runoff from the glaciers in the mountains. You can see here how parched the mountains are - the habitation follows the green river courses that you see.

Leh, comes into sight

Leh is the capital of Ladakh, in the upper Valley of the Indus River. It is 11,550 feet high, which led me into another experience of 'travail' in adjusting to the altitude.

Lobby of Hotel Ananda, Ladakh

Needless to say I was very happy to arrive at the hotel and thrilled that they let me check in immediately, even though it was barely 10 am. I know some of you are saying' What the hell is she doing, going to such a remote place on her own?' Well I agree, it is a bit crazy, but in reality, I had signed up for a photography tour and decided to get up here several days early to allow myself to adjust. I'm glad I did. Even with a medication to help offset the effects of altitude, I was puffing and panting even coming up one flight of stairs and had on and off headaches throughout the first day. The ability to rest and drink lots of water gave my body a chance to acclimate, so by day two, I have felt pretty good. The body is an amazing organism.

Main Market, Leh

But you know I can't sit in a hotel ALL the time, so I ventured out both days and did my wandering. As you see from the photo above, there is a main market that is a pedestrian mall, which is lovely. The abundance of prayer flags is a delight! With the dry hills in the background, it almost felt like Utah, only the architecture is quite different.

Side Alley

There are lovely side alleys - just my cup of tea.

The Sign Said 'Welcome to Old Town Market'

So of course, when I saw the sign saying 'Welcome to Old Town Market, I was immediately drawn.....

Hand dying Sari Fabric.

....and was rewarded to find this gentlemen dying sari fabric.

He was selling hats

I loved this wall, with its prayer flags, little black windows and door with the little pleated awnings that flap in the wind. I understand they are regarded as being auspicious and bring in wealth and prosperity. The man told me the building is some hundreds of years old. I had no difficulty believing that! The collection of hats and the jeans the man was wearing stood out vividly as anachronisms.

The man was chasing the cow away

I think the cow/calf had got itself into some vegetables that a man was selling, as there was a green leafy vegetable on the ground that he was cleaning up. This other man was shooing the cow away. I think the cow was getting the message, but no doubt will be back for more, either here or somewhere else. I have seen a number of different cows wandering around. I expect they're a bit of a hazard on the road.

Leh Palace

The town is dominated by the Leh Palace, which can be seen from many different places. It is hard to finds views that are are not marred by wires. It was built in 1600 and was lived in by Ladakhi royals until they abandoned it in the mid-1900's. It has apparently deteriorated and little of the interior décor survives. There are efforts to preserve it, I understand.

Scary Looking Electrical Set-Up

As is so often the case with developing countries, the infrastructure for managing wires is not sophisticated. Wires run all over the place and seem disorganized. So to give it credit, this place has nothing over Thailand in this department, by I was somewhat shocked at the proximity to the world at large that was evident in this set-up. It is some type of junction box, maybe, but the only thing separating dogs, children and the ignorant from it were just two wires that could easily be crossed.

Red Maitreya Temple

Higher up on the hill from the palace is a Buddhist temple, called Red Maitreya Temple, which dates back to the 1400's. Part of it was rebuilt in the 1950's due to water damage. There is a recently created statue of Buddha associated with it, but it appears to be closed to visitors at present.

Stupas on the Hillside

There were also many stupa on the hillside below the temple. I could find no information on the internet about them.

The Other Side of Leh Palace

Walking up behind the palace was quite a different experience. The streets were lined with lovely tall trees, which leant a cool and calming air to the area. However, walking can be treacherous with no established footpaths, cars, motorbikes, cows, dogs and often a deep drainage gutter on one or both sides. Cars seem to be driven by horn blowing - it is very frequent, but probably wise in the narrow streets.

This House had Many Asses in the Yard

It felt more like being out in the country, which I appreciated. Although the town is very busy, it does not feel rushed and hectic. People are about their business and storekeepers are happy to engage with prospective customers as they pass by.

New Windows Being Installed

There is a lot of new construction being done, but so far all I've seen so far has been with traditional Ladakhi skills. No skyscrapers here. I love the woodwork that is used in windows here. They are wood frames and often have elaborate carvings. This wall still need paint/whitewash, but I thought the window frames were beautiful.

An Old Door

There's much more old stuff around though, and I fell in love with this door!

Jama Masjid Imamiya Mosque

There are a number of mosques in town, too. Muslims make up 14% of the population in Leh, but is higher in other parts of Ladakh. Ladakh has been part of the silk road for centuries and Ladakh was also part of the Jammu and Kashmir autonomous region until 2019 when all three were given statehood. Both Jammu and Kashmir ae dominated by Muslims. They lived peacefully with the Ladakhis for many years, but according to Helen Norberg-Hodge, a Ladakhi historian of sorts, things went awry with he onset of globalization impacting the area and there have been ethnic conflicts.

Vegetable in Leh Main Market

 It was a delight to see women out selling their vegetables as I finally made my way home. The woman on the left is brandishing that very large vegetable with great pride - I don't even recognize it!

You notice he shawls in the window behind you. This place is a shawl and jewelry lovers dream and a shoppers nightmare. There are so many stores selling the most divine shawls - mostly from Kashmir, but also local pashmina, that are to die for. And so far I must have seen at least 100 stores selling them. For someone who likes to shop around for a bargain, it might be too much even for me!

Apricot Sellers

This area is also famous for it's apricots and I feared I was too early for the season. So I was thrilled to see these ladies selling them. After I got their photos, I bought half a dozen for my snack!

As usual, there's so much more to tell. But this gets us started on this new adventure. I join the photography group tomorrow morning and we are heading out to some remote areas. It's possible there'll either be no time, or no internet, so you might not hear from me routinely. We'll see!

Saturday July 2nd to Tuesday July 19th, 2022 - Being a Tourist In Bangkok

 Having been here in Bangkok for three weeks now, my explorations have slowed down and I am preparing to move on to my next destination.

Sarah - Suspended in Space on MahaNakhon Tower Glass Walk

But before we move on, I want you to know that I did do touristy things, too - it wasn't all off the beaten track. One of the first was the visit to the MahaNakhon Tower.

MahaNakhon Tower

Otherwise known as 'The Cube', the MahaNakhon Tower is currently the tallest building in Bangkok that one can get to the top of. (There's another 3 feet higher and one under construction that will be 300 feet taller when finished in 2025!) Maha Nakhon is 1,030 feet high and visible from many parts of the city.

This graphic gives you an an idea of it's height relative to other famous 'Tall Buildings'. 

Of course, you can't have a building like this without teasing people to be daredevils, go to the top and encourage them to walk out onto the glass platform! The thought of it turned my legs to jelly!

BTS Skytrain Station at Phrom Phong

So off we went on the BTS Skytrain to the tower.

The Erawan Elephant Statue

At the base of the tower was a rather magnificent statue depicting a many headed elephant that carries the God Indus on his back.

Inside the MahaNakhorn Tower Elevator

The ride up the elevator was like a Disney ride - with the graphics streaming from the glass walls, creating a sense of motion. It started under the sea and then soared us up into the air to the top of the building. It was pretty thrilling itself!

View from the top of MahaNakhon Looking West toward Chao Praya River

Of course, the view was spectacular and we were fortunate to have a very clear day. As you can see from the first photo, Sarah got out on the glass 'Skywalk' and managed to look very elegant perched on top of other skyscrapers beneath. One had to take off shoes and put on cloth booties, and no cell phones were allowed on the platform. I guess a clumsily dropped phone could shatter the glass, which consisted of two, very sturdy layers of thick, greenish glass.

Yours Truly poses on the glass MahaNakhon Glass Skywalk

It actually looked so secure, that I found myself putting on the booties and stepping out onto he platform without a shred of nervousness! Craziness! Of course, I'm not quite as elegant as Sarah, but I did it!

Chinchilla, Guinea Pigs and Rabbits at 'The Rabbito Café'

Another quirky outing was to visit a 'rabbit' café. There are a number of different 'animal cafés' around town - cats, dogs, birds, and exotic animal cafés - where one can enjoy a snack and drink while being surrounded by the animal of choice.

Boo Boo the Guinea Pig 

There were rabbits, guinea pigs, a hamster and a chinchilla, They were all awfully cute, but they were also constantly pooping. You can see in the photo above a little guinea pig poop to the right of his face. The staff were constantly picking up their little pellets from the tables and the floor! We were  given a little mat to cover one's legs. 

Control of the Food was Key!

Once settled, the animals were pulled from cages and were free to hop around or sit on laps. The rabbits moved around a lot, but the guinea pigs stayed pretty close to where they were placed. Notice that the rabbits are so keen to get their food in the photo above, that they completely stomped all over the little guinea pig in Sarah's lap.

Chow Chow the Blind Chinchilla

The little blind chinchilla was very active, darting in and out of his yellow ceramic home, but he never came anywhere near laps. We were told he was a rescue animal, which was also the case with some of the other animals. It was an awfully sweet way to while away some time of an afternoon.

Chuck, Robyn, me and Sarah at the Waldorf Astoria, Bangkok

As if we were not having enough fun already, we were delighted to have Robyn join us, too. For those who might not know, Robyn is my younger daughter who travelled from the United States. How lovely for me to be with both of them together here. To celebrate, we went to the Waldorf Astoria for a 'prix fixe' meal that was offered through 'Restaurant Week' here. For a total of $33 we had a very fine seven course Thai tasting menu which was one of the best meals we've had here.

Decor at Hongetsu Omakase

If I told you that we photographed every dish we ate, you might be scared that I will bore you to death now, by parading endless photos of food. Of course, you can relax, I won't do that! However I can say the food has been one of the highlights of the trip. 

Sushi Chefs at Hongetsu Omakase

I will share a few of the photos from one of the most superb food experiences we had - a sushi meal at a small 10-seater restaurant, Hongetsu Omakase ('omakase' apparently means that the chef decides on the menu for the customers). Watching the precision and solemnity of movements along with a seemingly choreographed preparation was as intriguing as eating the food that was offered. Each piece of sushi was presented as if it were 'poetry in motion' - just one bite at a time. It beat Publix sushi many times over!

Dramatic Ice Cream Preparation at Hongetsu Omakase

The finale was this dramatically prepared dessert - an ice cream that was stirred into existence with a liquid that produced these clouds of 'fog'. The ice cream was delicious and the experience very memorable.

A Birthday Pavlova

Part of the reason for this visit by Robyn and myself, and our decision to 'splash' a bit on dinners was to be sure that we did a great job of celebrating Sarah's birthday this year. There is no better way to do that than with a good old Aussie pavlova. I have to say - it was a good one this year!

The Unicorn Café (Photo by Sarah Lamp)

Our last 'Hurrah' was to stop at the Unicorn Café, a pink, over the top accumulation of everything pastel and pink, green blue and yellow with oodles of unicorn's hanging from the ceiling.

The Unicorn Café (Photo by Sarah Lamp)

 It was quite something to behold, and I know there's many a young tourist who would be begging their parents to come here.

The Pastry Case at The Unicorn Café (Phot by Sarah Lamp)

Is it proper for me to end my narrative here? In a pink, Eurocentric themed venue that offers the most tasteless artistry and egregious commercialism?

 Robyn held out for the 'plastic bag' Thai tea (Photo by Robyn Lamp)

On the other hand, it demonstrates the enormous diversity this city offers. In the café we paid 70 baht (88 cents US) for a Thai tea that had an enormous amount of ice in it and tasted OK. Across the street, from the cart beside the road,  Robyn got herself a 'plastic bag' iced tea for 20 baht (25 cents US) which lasted a lot longer and was much more authentic. That's what I love about this town - sometimes the best things are the simplest - but there is so much choice available, it offers just about anything for just about everyone!

Sunset, Bangkok, Tuesday, July 19th, 2022 (Photo by Sarah Lamp)

My cameras are put away as tomorrow I head off to India, where I plan to spend 10 days in Ladakh. Stay tuned and hope wi-fi and internet work OK.