August 17th to 31st, 2021 - A Retrospective on Our Trip to the Azores

 This is the first trip where I have arrived back home, without knowing if all has gone safely. The CDC recommends a 7 day quarantine, so I'm on day three of a self-imposed quarantine. I ordered groceries  to avoid going into the store and have only visited with friends outside.  I will know next Wednesday, whether or not it was a completely successful trip! Weird!

Approaching Jacksonville Airport

As we flew in to Jacksonville, I was reminded that I live in a beautiful part of the world, too - it is just not quite as obvious, as we don't have the elevation to 'show it off'.

Forte se Sao Bras, Ponta Delgada

I felt enormously privileged to de able to go visit part of the old world so easily at this time.  

So, what remains that is worth saying about our trip?

In the past, much of my travel has been in Asia and Australia, so I have not imagined that my US friends would want to follow. This trip was relatively 'local', so I want to just share some 'tips' even though I really hope this place doesn't become overrun by tourists.

Gruta do Carvao

Of primary importance to me for this visit, were the level of safety measures that were in place to mitigate Covid risks. First, the positivity rates in the Azores from Covid tests was 2% compared to 20%+ here in Fernandina, so there was just less risk surrounding us. I was pleased they required a negative rt-PCR test for entry (even though I hated spending that $150 for it) and we expected there would be additional testing after arrival. In fact they did not require it after all, which lowered my confidence a bit.

For the airports and airplanes I used the best quality masks I could get, wiped down the tray table etc and washed hands frequently. TSA Pre-Check and Global Entry minimized time in lines.

Once in Sao Miguel, the adherence to mask use inside was superb, businesses had hand sanitizer at their doors and restaurants used good spacing between tables, so I generally felt we were doing our best to minimize spreading or getting the dreaded bug! It is also the reason I chose to rent a car, so we didn't have to share space with others and we enjoyed mostly outdoor activities.

Needless to say, I had purchased Travel Insurance that covered Covid - I would not have gone without it.

Our Renault Elf

Our little car was no beauty! We rented if rom a local company called ANC Energia. It was small, so I chose the 4-door model in case our bags would not fit in the trunk. It was a good move, as one bag filled the trunk, so the rest of our luggage went in the back seat. If you really like changing gears a lot and enjoy hill starts with the hand brake, a manual is cheaper, but that was not for me so I ordered automatic transmission. The a/c didn't work and there was no manual to help me interpret dash lights, but the little engine hauled us up and down the hills and through the narrow streets quite reliably. Because it was a budget rental, we had to take a free shuttle to their off-site location, which I thought worthwhile, as it was also close to half the price of the big multi-national companies.

You don't want a big car! (Furnas)

I also chose to use AirBNB for accommodation and in the smaller towns there were no hotels. First we headed for the village of Mosteiros, out of the city, so that there was less chance of us passing anything on to others. Staying out of hotels also minimized the number of bugs we were exposed to. We did use the airport Hilton in Boston overnight on our way home, but we were able to walk there from the international terminal and used keyless entry.

The quality of accommodation was mostly pretty high. Furnishings were simple and sometimes a little uncomfortable, and there was no air conditioning. Two of them very nicely appointed - the other one had some plumbing problems that made it less fun.

A Sunny Home - Ponta Delgada

In Ponta Delgada, we did get a change to see inside one of those little frontages that are the typical row house here. It was just the section under the newly tiled roof in the photo. 

Downstairs bedroom at Sunny Home, Ponta Delgada

This was the room I used. You can see on the left there was a fan, which helped cool at night, as I didn't want to keep the windows open to the street. In this place, we each had a bathroom, which was very nice.

Kitchen at Sunny Home, Ponta Delgada

The kitchen was an add on - had a very Ikea feel.

Recycling Bins

Every place was serious about recycling - you can see the labels. It was lovely to see that perhaps it was a real program.

The Neighbors yard, Sunny Home , Ponta Delgada

Where we had a nice little patch of lawn, the neighboring house had a yard full of banana trees and had not extended their kitchen, so we were definitely in the upscale version!

Supermarket, Parque Atlantico, Punta Delgada

As we were doing this as 'budget' travelers, we had hoped to fix our own meals much of the time. What we did not know ahead of time, is that the little towns only had small mini-marts, with a poor selection of fresh food and only frozen meats and fish. This surprised me, as I had expected lots of fresh options. I think much of the acquisition of these items is through informal connections among neighbors. 

It was not until we got to Ponta Delgada at the end of the trip that we found supermarkets. I regret
to say we did not explore them, so I can't tell you how good they are. However, I might suggest people who do want to fix their own meals might be wise to stop for basics before leaving the city .

Bifana, Mosteiros

One aspect I appreciated in the Azores was losing the obligation to tip. It pleased my Australian soul! While meals were more affordable than similar quality dishes at home, we were generally not impressed with the food we ate, other than the notable exceptions I mentioned in my blog. The bifana, pictured above, was an ever present option - a marinated thin piece of pork served as a sandwich. Portions were generous and fries were commonly offered on the side. Limpets, barnacles, octopus were local specialties - for me they didn't rank as dishes that I will continue to yearn for. I didn't try the barnacles and the limpets were OK. Having watched 'Octopus, My Teacher' on Netflix, I was satisfied with the one taste we had. There is plenty of fish, but I was not uniformly pleased with how well it was prepared. Basically, I'm saying do more research on this than we did, or don't come here with great expectations about meals.

The more popular restaurants required reservations, some of them being booked up three and four days ahead, so planning would be needed if you have particular places in mind.

A Common Sight at Poca das Dona Beija

The Azores want tourists to visit. At present, it is really an ideal destination for its outdoor attractions. However, the capacity for handling large numbers looked in some places as if it had already been met. The popular spots were crowded and finding parking at the most notable miradouros (lookouts) was sometimes tough. The hot springs drew crowds and could only hold certain numbers. A number of them, like this one at Dona Beija did not take reservations and always had a line, so enjoying the hot springs would require special planning if you don't like waiting.

 If you like walking, this archipelago is hard to beat with a large number of well marked and maintained trails. Pdf downloads are available at Treking Routes in São Miguel - Hiking Trails in Azores (visitazores.com)

Lagoa das Empadadas

We were really fortunate with the weather and even when it was cloudy, it brought a different beauty. It was generally in the high 70's during the day, dropping to the low 70's at night. When it rained, it was generally light and brief. We only lost one day to steady, heavy rain and wind. It was most common to see clouds on the peaks and sunshine around the coast, so if you are interested in walking the higher trails, check the weather report and plan accordingly. Our completely clear day at Sete Cidades was a rare event, it seemed.

Bilingual Signage

The final reason that travel here was so appealing was that almost everyone spoke some English. Most signage was bilingual and resorting to Google Translate was only necessary when one was getting into more complicated ides. American tourists are not as common as those from Europe, but English was also used by many of the people from Germany, Italy, France, Spain etc, if they did not speak Portuguese. We heard very little English around us in the groups of other tourists, unless they were communicating with an Azorean. 

Unfortunately there were beggars in the streets of Ponta Delgada, who also had pretty good English! I tried Googling whether this is legal here, but could find no English reference to it! Happily they were not persistent and invasive, but I was surprised and dismayed at their presence. I had thought that Portugal had a pretty good social support system, but I guess it's not enough.

Ferraria

The bottom line is that this was a beautiful, welcoming island with unique characteristics that make the inconvenience of a five hour flight out of Boston very worthwhile. If you like, I'll come back another time and check out some of the other islands for you! After all, there are eight more!

Now I promise I'm done! Thanks for joining me.

 

Sunday 29th through Tuesday 31st, 2021 - Last Days in The Azores

We endeavored to stay active and ventured out on Sunday for a trail that was about 30 minutes out of Ponta Delgada. Rain was predicted, so we had umbrellas, rain jackets and the determination to press on in spite of it. If I now told you I have no photos of that event, you'll know that it must have been grim. 

It was not just a steady wet, but the rain was accompanied by a very persuasive wind that repeatedly blew my umbrella inside out and meant that I could not hazard even having my phone out, let alone my Nikon.

So with tail between our legs, we decided, after what we thought was a fair try, to pack it in. We went back to our AirBNB and enjoyed a day of rest and 'catching up'.

City Alley, Ponta Delgada

That evening we finally ventured out and went into the city for dinner. Being Sunday, parking wasn't too bad and the streets were not too crowded.

Cafe Central, Ponta Delgada

I discovered I wasn't the only photographer hard at work, but it does look as if I'm looking at the wrong thing! There was a church behind me, but I liked the color of the cafe and the lights next to it.

Glovo Food Delivery

I also saw that we could have had our dinner delivered! Just like at home!

Portas da Cidade - Gates to the City - Ponta Delgada

One of the landmarks here are the gates to the city - originally built in at the harbor in 1783, but moved further back to this location in 1952. They are one of the iconic images that immediately identify this city. The statue in their center is Goncalo Velho Cabral, the discoverer and first governor of the islands. 

Building in need of repair - Ponta Delgada

Photographing entire buildings was a challenge I was not prepared for. I needed a very wide-angle lens - so I have cropped this down to just show you the upper floor of this building that had clearly seen better days. I kept on feeling that the charm of this place was slowly slipping away into decay - the lovely blue tile work is not going to be around for much longer if repairs are not made.

Renovated Blue Tile Facade on Right - Ponta Delgada

The blue building on the right is the exact same tile - but has either been maintained nicely, or renovated.

Plants Growing in the Wrong Places

It was also not uncommon to see plants growing out of porches (as opposed to cultivated on porches) and roofs. It was hard to tell if the buildings were still being used, or had been abandoned. I'm sure The Azores has been hard hit by the pandemic, as tourism is a significant part of the economy, but the degree of 'urban decay' seemed to be a process that has been occurring for some time. 

Wall Art - Ponta Delgada

Sometimes the decay lent itself to enhancement. This building had solid new windows, which suggests that the discoloration and eroded stucco was maintained for its 'character'?

Spilled Paint on Cobblestones

It never occurred to me that spilling paint on cobblestone streets could present a pretty tough clean-up job. It would be interesting to see how long it takes for the colors to disappear here. I wonder if the residents appreciate it, or are mad every time they walk past it!

China Town, Ponta Delgada

I came across a Japanese restaurant a Chinese restaurant and a store that claimed to be China Town - so I presume that this is Ponta Delgada's Chinatown? (Apologies for not being able to fit the whole frontage in my lens!)

Supermarket, Ponta Delgado

We saw a number of supermarkets in Ponta Delgada, as opposed to just the mini-marts that we had seen in the smaller towns we visited. They looked well stocked.

The Azores is an autonomous region of Portugal. It is considered a  less developed region. The per capita GDP is 75% of European averages, which helps present attractive prices for tourists. It raises its own taxes, budgets and plans for its needs and can negotiate for international treaties and agreements that concern the region. It can also legislate in matters of agricultural policy, fisheries, sea and marine resources, trade, industry, energy, tourism, infrastructures, environment and regional planning. It has received EU funds since 1986. 

This chart gives you an idea of how they sustain themselves economically. If this interests you, there is more information at 

*https://www.europarl.europa.eu/RegData/etudes/BRIE/2017/601971/IPOL_BRI(2017)601971_EN.pdf

Gruta Do Carvao - Ponta Delgada

Sunday was our 'Last Hurrah' and these lava tubes had been on my list since day one. So it was now time to get to them!

Red Line Shows Lava Tubes Underground

At close to 3.5 miles long, they are the longest in Portugal and rank at #26 in the world.

Helmets and cameras ready for lava tube exploration - Photo by Robyn Marie Lamp!

We went down 45 meters below street level and then walked through one of these concrete tunnels to find ourselves in a short segment of the tubes. Robyn managed to catch this brilliant photo of yours truly, all ready to record the event! (It was not staged.)

Lava Tubes - Ponta Delgada

It was rather brilliant to see the vestiges of these underground 'rivers' that had carried molten lava to the ocean through the numerous eruptions that formed the island. Here you can see that there were actually two levels that were thinly separated.

Frozen 'drips' from cooling lava

Unlike limestone caves, there are no stalagmites and stalactites. The guide explained that the rock filtered all the minerals out of the water so by the time a drip arrived on these little projections, there is nothing left to be deposited when the water evaporates. I could see the possibility that these were the drips left from when the last flow of lava cooled.

More 'drips'

I thought it had a whole primordial feel - this one almost felt like a huge T-Rex coming at me!

Indicators of 'flow' direction

This one was not the best example, but on the walls, one could also see markings that allowed one to see the direction of the flow. It was really a 'no-brainer', as the downhill direction also defined the flow, but in places where there were no drips, it led to attractive patterns.

Weekday Traffic, Ponta Delgada

Following our lava tube visit, we headed back into the city for some shopping. As you see, the traffic is quite different from that nice quiet Sunday!

Had a 'Whale of a Time' at Parque Atlantico Mall

The rest of the day involved a visit to the mall, which in spite of the whale over the escalator was actually underwhelming, followed by Covid tests and then dinner.

Tuesday was a pack up and leave day, and thus ended our lovely trip to the Azores.

I plan to write one more blog as a way to reflect on the whole experience, especially as it pertains to travelling during Covid. I hope you've enjoyed your travels with me - I sure appreciate that you have taken the time and trouble to read this far.

 

Saturday, August 28th, 2021 - Moving on to Ponta Delgada

 Our trip is winding down now, as we plan a last few days in the capital, Ponta Delgada. After all this green beauty in the countryside, the idea of city life was not thrilling us. At the very least we must get our Covid tests before returning to the US, so we figured a few days here just to scope things out.

Tree Fern at Caldeira Velha

As a last hurrah, we stopped again at Caldeira Velha, a hot spring on the north side of the Fogo volcano. This time we had a reservation, so we were able to enjoy two hours of dipping in and out of the hot water and enjoying the vegetation. I got entranced by the 'fiddle heads' emerging from the huge, lush tree ferns. I decided they should be called 'cello heads' instead, they were so big.

Caldeiras Velho

The setting was more natural than the one at Donna Beija in Furnas, and each pool was clearly marked with the number of people it could hold. There were three of these natural pools and they never got crowded.

First, I was amazed to find this boiling pool, that also had little boiling puddles right underfoot. This video shows you my ugly, but very practical Merrell water shoes right next to some of these puddles. Then the video pans to the pool itself. The sign says, 'Danger, Boiling Water - 140 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit'. That one was too hot to swim in, that's for sure.

Caldeira Velha

So we just hung about and moved around between the three pools.

Tree Ferns, Caldeira Velha

While sitting in one of the pools I noticed the huge fiddle heads and spent quite a bit of time trying to get 'that perfect shot'. I ended up deciding the first one in the blog is the most photogenic - the close-ups just look very hairy and moist, so I'll spare you the results. I had fun. I like it when I challenge myself to be creative - sometimes it works, sometimes not. That's why I call myself a traveler, rather than a photographer. When I have that impulsive 'Oh, that looks interesting' and just stick my camera at something usually gives the most satisfying outcome.

Bat Box, Caldeira Velha

The intended residents of this box were clearly marked - I hope they can interpret the signage OK. Note in the back left the hint of solar panels on the hillside.

Cold Pool and Watefall at Caldeira Velha

We finished our time in a refreshing cool pool. Robyn was relishing in the waterfall.

Pico Vermelho Geothermal Power Station

Before leaving the area, I just had to stop and recognize the geothermal power station nearby. It's a really bad photo - I was in a rush, because I was afraid they might think I was some type of industrial spy!

The deep system of hot water from the earth is tapped for geothermal power, using a binary method - meaning that there is a heat exchange between the hot water source and another fluid, in this case, pentane. It is the pentane that moves through the turbines to create electricity. 60% of the electricity here is produced through alternative methods - mostly wind and geothermal systems.

Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

Our first outing once we arrived in Ponta Delgada, was a visit to the nearby pineapple plantation, pretty close to the center of the city.

Because it is not hot enough for the plants outside, they are cultivated in greenhouses. This also allows humidity to be controlled. The ones we have tasted to date were very delicious - had an almost coconut flavor. However, in most of the mini-marts we saw them, they were quite expensive - close to $10 each.

Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

The roofs are painted with some type of white lime compound to regulate the temperature.

Pineapple 'Flower' at Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

I decided the flower is very lovely. 

Pineapple juice and gelato at Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

I indulged in the juice and ice cream and both were wonderful, Robyn had a diferent drink. I was also quite pleased to discover that the straw that came with the juice was edible - a pleasant lime flavor - so I ate it, too.

Street Art in Ponta Delgada

My first encounter in the old city was this interesting piece of art work in someone's doorway. If you look closely, you can see that there is a reflection sketched on the right hand side, which the artist hasn't finished. The one on the left looks as if it is a masked face, but the mask is over the eyes, not the mouth.  Political statement? Or just artistry? I liked the curlicue moustache.

Ponta Delgada Near the Saturday Market

It has the look of a town that's been here a while. The city streets are cobbled with the local hard-wearing basalt and the sidewalks are decorated with a white stone from mainland Portugal - most likely limestone. This is apparently typical elsewhere in Portugal and is called calcada portuguesa. It turned these street from mundane to something much more attractive.

Narrow Streets of Ponta Delgada

The streets are quite narrow, allowing only one way traffic. Even walking is hazardous with cars passing close by. Many of the buildings have little balconies with attractive grille work.

Pedestrian Alley - Punta Delgada

Many of the north south roads have been turned into appealing pedestrian alleys - very often with restaurants and cafes lining them.

Octopus Wall Art near the Port - Ponta Delgada

I saw this compelling octopus on our way to dinner, when we took a bit of a stroll by the port. 

When we arrived in the Azores at the beginning of our trip, we had completed all our paperwork online, so we were each given coupons for 35 Euro by the government to reward our compliance. (This ends August 31st - so no rewards for you! Sorry!)

We decided to use our coupons at restaurants and were on our way to oBACo (or The Bacchus) at Hotel Ponta Delgada. This was rated on Tripadvisor as the 5th best restaurant in Ponta Delgada. 

Wine Bar at oBACo

Arriving at 7 pm, we were the first in the restaurant - the Europeans definitely haven't caught on to intermittent fasting yet! 

Squid salad appetizer.

We chose a price fixe option with four courses - they called it a 'discovery'. I don't want to bore you with lots of details about it, but the entire selection we were given was superb. I'm not usually a gourmand, so it was a special treat. While the coupon did not cover the full cost, it offset the luxury nicely.

Water Carafe at oBACo

I also delighted in the European style of water at the table. I had forgotten this nice custom.

Finishing Station at oBACo

The secret to our pleasure had been this finishing station where all the lovely additions added beauty, crunch and flavor to our dishes.

It was a very pleasing way to end our day and enjoy at least one aspect of city life. Tomorrow Covid tests and then head home Tuesday.