Thursday August 31st and Friday September 1st, 2017 - Did it Ever Occur to you that the Franks Created Frankfurt - Or Was it Only About Hot Dogs to You?

Wednesday was the end of my stay in Oberheimbach with Singing in Paradise, so I headed back to Frankfurt for a few days before heading back home on the Saturday.

Because Frankfurt was heavily bombed during World War II, it is not on the top of lists for scenic tourist spots. Yet with my perverse perspective on things, that fact rendered it all the more interesting for me, as a place to see how people rebuild from such a adverse events. I was not disappointed.

So I thought I'd begin with the end in mind! I thought the message on this banner provided a marvelous summation for me. It was  near the Goethe Statue where equipment was being set up for a music event - the words mean 'Love is my religion. Music is my language'. It was used as the title of an album released by a group called Frida Gold in 2013. I think it's a great title!

(From looking at the you tube video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EQGSnkbbMm0 the artist is probably a bit too racy for me - but I like the sentiment.)

The message spoke more strongly to me, partly as it was only a short distance from the 'Grauen Busse' which is a memorial that is periodically moved to different sites in Germany. It seems this concrete bus has only recently come here. It represents the grey buses that came in the middle of he night to pick up handicapped and mentally ill people who had been targeted by the Nazi's for euthanasia. It would take the victims and transport them to a psychiatric hospital site about 40 miles NW of Frankfurt where the killing center was located in Hadamar. Should you want to know more, here's a link  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hadamar_Euthanasia_Centre. 

Trying to delve into the history here is pretty tough, as you might imagine because there's so much of it. To help out, I took a walking tour. We began near the old section of the city (Altstadt) at the famous Roemerplatz. This photo is the Roemer - which has been the City Hall for 600 years. It is also famous for its Christmas Market. It was bombed in 1944.

This is what was left after the bombing - basically just the facade.

I appreciated that the building has been restored in great detail. There are wonderful sculptural details all over it.



One of the most interesting are the cats keeping the mice away! Our guide said there were four of them and told us they had been added after a discovery that money was missing from the coffers. Supposedly the cats were an easier solution than doing an audit! I'll put this in the 'believe it or not' category.

The only structure in the old area which remained intact at the end of WW2 was Haus Wertheim, shown above. According to our guide, it did not burn because firefighters kept hoses trained on it all night during the bombing raid of the Aldtstadt (March 22nd, 1944) to protect citizens who were sheltering down by the river. 1,000 inhabitants died and the largest medieval city center in Germany was decimated.



A confounding aspect today is that things might look old, but are actually new. These buildings in the Roemerplatz were built in the 1980's to original specifications and were the beginning of re-construction here to characterize the architecture that had been there before the bombing. With a need for infrastructure to go up quickly, a lot of the early replacements were soulless and designed with more pragmatism in mind than aesthetics.

This Book Burning Memorial in the Roemerplatz was a sobering reminder of the events that culminated in the war. The book burning occurred on May 10th, 1933. Some of the authors whose works were destroyed were Albert Einstein, Sigmund Freud, Victor Hugo, Ernest Hemingway, Helen Keller, Jack London and other US and English writers whose names surprised me.

Leaving the Roemerplatz we headed to a building called the Schirn, an exhibition hall built slap bang on the hill that was the location of the original city. It's near a ford in the Main River and the highest point around - which is usually a good thing when deciding on a spot to settle. This hill was also in a boggy area back then, and could only be reached on dry land from the west, making it easier to defend. The photo shows the skylight in the roof of its portico.

This is the view from the Eisener Steg bridge across the Main River, near the Cathedral Hill. This skyscraper is the new European Central Bank.

The stuff that gets locked up on the Eisener Steg is not money, but people's hearts. Built in 1868, this iron bridge can hold the weight of thousands of 'locks of love'.

But I can't let you off the history stuff this lightly! The photo shows the History Museum - called the Hauptwache - so this must be the place where I have to throw the rest of it at you.

Evidence of early cultures date back to 3,000 BCE. The Romans arrived around 83 CE and had a military presence in the area until the middle of the third century. By 794 AD, Charlemagne had built a royal court here and referred to the site as the 'ford of the Franks'. I was curious about who these Franks were, but you'll be sorry that it's way too complicated for this space - suffice it to say they were pretty good warriors, they shaped early European history and they have funny names (Clodio the Long Haired, Pippin the Younger, Childeric etc). So maybe they were hot-doggers after all?!

I also was intrigued to learn that the universal Asian word for westerner - 'farang'- derives from the Persian word for the Franks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muHS32hZZ6Y and
http://www.eupedia.com/europe/frankish_influence_modern_europe.shtml

But enough of old dates and tracking influences over the centuries. The next stop that highlighted recent positive events was the Paulskirche - the location of Germany's first democratically elected parliament in 1848. The democracy did not last. After it collapsed, many Germans went to Australia (many to Adelaide where they were key to establishing the wine industry) and to the USA (Where many settled in Milwaukee and established the breweries there). JFK spoke here when he visited Germany - for 30 minutes. Our guide said it was a very boring speech.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZZ1WWAtegc 

I loved the clean lines and simplicity of the building. This is a color photo - not black and white. It had been originally built in 1789, was destroyed in March 1944.

It was the first structure to be re-built in the re-construction as a tribute to it's symbolism as the cradle of German freedom.

But sadly, I must divert back to some of the recent 'dark' history. I had heard about these 'Stumble Stones' and indeed, that's just what they are. One could easily walk right over them on the pavement and never notice them. Stumble  Stones are placed in front of any place known to be the last residence or workplace of victims of Nazi persecution or extermination. They are about 4" x 4", are placed throughout the cities of Germany and are being added to all the time. The underlying idea is that when the victims names are lost, the history is lost. Some controversy surrounds this project, but their power in my mind lies in the statement that they 'represent a much deeper intrusion of memory into everyday life'. For more go to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stolperstein

In a similar, personal manner, the Jewish Holocaust Memorial Wall  honors the memory of 12,000 Jewish citizens of Frankfurt who lost their lives during the Holocaust, including Anne, Margot and Edith Frank. Each person is  represented by a little box that sticks out from the wall with their name on it, date of birth, date and place of death if known.



The surface underfoot is gravel, a rather coarse grey gravel, as you can see in the lower left of the picture.

Our guide said that this was chosen because it is rough and hard to walk on, and causes the visitor to struggle somewhat, a way to create a visceral memory of discomfort. He also said the ugliness of the memorial represents the ugliness of the history it represents.

Traditionally a rock would be placed on each marker. Our guide said that Jewish customs regard flowers as items for the living and that rocks are used instead for memorial purposes. He said the rocks had been recently removed for maintenance. I found it to be a powerful experience. Simple and effective.

Our tour included some churches, cloisters and a food market, but the next stopping place I want to share with you is Goethe's Statue.

Along with the banner I showed at the beginning of the blog, his statue was supporting this peace sign. I can't pretend to know much about Goethe, but it seems he was a freethinker, so perhaps he would be happy to have this sign at his feet.

Goethe's birthplace was among the first places to be re-built following the war. He is clearly an author held in high esteem by the Germans. The importance of their choosing his birthplace as one of the most important buildings to restore suggests a connection to literature that is hard to imagine in our world. It might be equivalent to re-building Shakespeare's, Ralph Waldo Emerson's or Banjo Patterson's house as a first act of defining statehood after a disaster. (No insult to Goethe intended by these new world comparisons!)

I'd like to finish up with just a few odds and ends. This one is back at the Roemerplatz. I just like the sign!

The cheeriness of this wall mural was refreshing to see toward the end of our walk.

I have no idea what this is about - I think if you click on the photo and look closely, there may be some superheroes there.

I liked the way the little old structure was linked in to the new here and the reflection in the shiny granite wall.

One stumbles across most interesting buildings such as this Eschenheimer Turm which was not far from where I was staying. It was a city gate built in the early 1400s  and is one of only three city gates left standing from the original 60.  

I thought it was a rather grand thing. Notice too how wide the streets are. It is a wonderful city for someone who likes to walk. It also has parks and plazas that are well used.

In addition to great sidewalks, there is a subway system and trams. I never saw traffic that seemed backed up and crazy in the city.

This is from the window of the AirBNB where I was staying - on Alte Gasse. Such a combination of styles!

Frankfurt is a very eclectic city. It's relatively small - around 700,000 people live there, although in the surrounding urban areas it reaches over two million. It is culturally and ethnically diverse, with about half the population having a migration background. As a global hub for commerce, culture, education, tourism and transportation it draws people from all over the world. 25% of the population are foreign nationals - including many expatriates.

Finally, I'll leave you with this image of a carved stone that is in the sidewalk in the Roemerplatz. There are apparently four of them there. I'm really not sure why they're there, but I thought it was a great sentiment! A much cheerier stumble stone to end with. It was an interesting visit and a sharp contrast to my time in the Rhine Valley. But home calls and this is the end of my journey. Thanks for following with me.

Saturday, 26th and Monday 28th of August, 2017 - A Last Look At The Rhine - Castles and Music.

The following day, Saturday, saw us up and out early to visit a nearby castle just outside Niederheimbach - the Burg Sooneck. I'll just share some images that I thought were noteworthy. This is not a travelogue and there are so many more photographs I cherish but will spare you from. Just the basics, Ma'm, just the basics!

Once again, the morning began with mist and cloud.

As is the case with most castles, it was high above the river - with a cliff on one side and a valley off behind it which had little exposure from walking terraces or windows.



It was replete with doors! This one was outside........

This is the entrance - the 'Burgtor'. (I love Mim's energy as she leans forward with anticipation) ........

........and these were in a little courtyard! There were more doors, but I know one can only take in so many  at a time, so I'll spare you!

It had lovely gardens and walkways on the steep side.

I was imagining ladies parading around these walkways in their fabulous gowns, but we learned that that the early owners had not been elegant and refined, but had been ruffians - basically robbers who forced tithes from travelers along the river. It had been originally built in the 11th century, fell to ruin in the late 1500's and was destroyed by the French in the late 1600's!

Happily for us, it was rescued by the Crown Prince of Prussia, Frederick William IV in the mid 1800's. He restored the compact ruins to provide a hunting retreat for the men of the family. Any ladies wandering around had possibly been 'local entertainment' according to our guide, as the wives probably stayed at home - too basic for them! It was just a weekender. It is now property of the state and managed for tourists. I put this photo in just in case you think I'm being too serious here with all these facts!

We were able to go inside the 'keep', but to protect the floors, we had to wear huge felt slippers over our shoes! Almost channels Rumpestiltskin in my mind! (This is Mim again, by the way.)

There were several levels. I love the spiral staircase! We had to take our slippers off for these.

 Looking down, they almost look like a nautilus.

There were beautiful views of the river through the windows.......

....splendid fireplaces  (note the grime from the smoke on the lintel.) ........

........beautiful furnishings and large paintings depicting battles and family heroes. This candlestick channeled 'Beauty and the Beast' for me.

Our next castle experience provided a stark contrast - it was Burg Rheinfels near St. Goar, about 20 km north of where we were staying. Part of it is still alive and well today, serving as a hotel and restaurant, but the greater amount of space is a ruin now. It dates from 1245, it is the largest castle overlooking the Rhine and was the most important fortress on the river. If I told you it was built to collects tolls from travelers along the river, I suspect you would not be surprised by now! It is not far from The Lorelei and it seems that St. Goar was established to provide assistance for ships to get over the reefs nearby.  I knew it was not that girl with the golden hair causing all the trouble!

As was the case with Burg Sooneck, the location was all about deterring attack - as a result - stunning views.

Looking out at the houses that surrounded the ramparts, I hoped that the people in them had looked up at the fortress as a protective element in their space - not as a looming harbinger of doom and uncertainty from tyrannical overlords. 

Wikipedia says that the numbers accommodated within its walls could be as high as 4,500 during sieges, which suggests it did offer refuge. There were a number of sieges and one in 1692 (against the French) is commemorated by a plaque. 

Now, being high-minded travelers always looking for new perspectives on living, we were given an 'insider's tip' by our local expert Alison Kunz, that we MUST check out the guillotine urinal in the men's bathroom! The guys didn't let on about whether the blade's proximity to their vitals affected anything for them - but we women were all very amused and had to take a look at this marvel. Could it be a decor statement for our bathrooms at home - a constant reminder for the dwellers within to maintain a grateful attitude about all things intact?

One of the first things one passes as entering the structure is the large cellar which was arched over in the late 1500s and is the largest self-supporting vaulted cellar in Europe. Instead of appreciating its history, our task was to take advantage of its acoustics to sing a bit. We had prepared a couple of slower moving songs, to allow the echoes to reverberate back to us, which was really fun - just for us, not a performance. I understand that it is used sometimes for concerts, which probably sound great if the music is not too fast. 

Then it was time to wander. I was intrigued by the stories revealed by the different styles of building materials - this patch was particularly active, suggesting doorways having been covered, different time-frames of construction , sources of materials, arguments with the wife and who knows what else.

As castles go, it was worth wandering around. It contained stables, brewery, apothecary, bakery, a water well and had space for livestock.

Just in case anyone got out of hand, there were the castle stocks .... and of course that guillotine!

It was not alone in its former splendor - one could see a number of other castles from here both upstream and downstream. Internet research says the owners of this one were particularly astute politically and married well to accumulate their power. An early siege that had lasted more than 18 months led people to view the castle as impenetrable and the fact that they also 'owned' the strategic spot on the river where navigational assistance was needed didn't hurt either - it was a way to 'win friends and influence people'! Ah, the machinations of castle life!

Our journey here in the Rhine Valley was nearly over. Our concert was to be held the following evening in a small church in Oberheimbach. But before we left the area, Ali had arranged one marvelous musical indulgence. The surprise was a visit to hear a huuuge organ, in an equally huge Catholic church in Oberwesel -  the Liebfraeunkirche. (The photo of it above represents my lack of skill in photographing huge buildings from close up.)

 

As our Music Director Richard is also an organist, Ali had surprised him with the opportunity to play this instrument and for us all to meet the church organist, Lukas Stollhof in this magnificent space. It is a a baroque organ built by Eberhardt in 1745 according to Wikipedia, but renovated since. The most recent work in the 1970s and '80s restored it to its original condition and electronic updates in 2001 brought it into the modern world.

The church's existence was first recorded in 1213 and the present building was built in the early 1300s. The High Altar is made of gold. Apparently many of the figurines were stolen in 1975, but amazingly have all been re-located. 

Where is one to look amidst all this camera-candy!

Bur wait - we're here to listen to music. The church organist was very passionate about teaching us more than we ever knew was possible about how an organ works. Then Richard's moment came. In spite of him not having his 'organ playing' shoes or music, he gave a fine performance, including Bach's Toccata and Fugue in D Minor - yes the famous one that pulls out all the stops! It was very grand sitting up in the organ loft so close to those mighty pipes! Good vibrations for sure.

But the fun for this photographer was not over yet. Downstairs there was another composition playing out - the fabulous light effects created as the rays of the setting sun streamed through the stained glass windows into the pews.........

....and the mighty columns of the church.

My final gift to you from this church is a picture of a slate slab that had been carved in 1492. As Rosemary's husband, Graham pointed out to me - it was the same year that Columbus sailed the ocean blue!

Now, just in case you think this trip to the Rhine Valley was nothing but fun and games, we did have to eat dinner. Rosemary, Graham and I posed for our last photo together.

Ali had arranged for us to eat at a famous traditional restaurant in Oberwesel - the Historische Weinwirstschaft, where I had the potato dumplings stuffed with liver sausage. They were definitely  a 'stick to your ribs' choice. I couldn't even finish the two of them and there had been no ice-cream in my afternoon!

Our group even had a musician serenading us with traditional German songs. Not a bad way to go, eh?