Thursday 15th August, 2024 - On to Tabanan - Rice Paddies, Manufacturing and A Sunset Temple

Teggallalang Rice Terrace 

This is sort of a boring photo to start with, but I choose it because it reveals the beginnings of a tale about rice terrace tourism in Bali. We arrived here relatively early from Ubud, on our way to Tabanan - our next stop. I was surprised to see the umbrellas and cafes on the roadside, when we were coming to a rice paddy. I think of farming taking place in the countryside and this felt very urban.

Subak Style Rice Paddies

The steep valley provides a perfect example of a style of rice farming that began in Bali, in the 9th century. This system, which is called subak, not only speaks to the physical design of the terraces, but describes a cooperative management of canals and weirs.

A Steep Descent

Our venture began with a steep descent to the bottom of the valley - my knees were unhappy, my walking poles were invaluable. You can see here the verdant new growth toward the bottom of this eastern, more commercial side of the valley.

This ancient subak system is cited by UNESCO World Heritage as being a system of 'democratic and egalitarian farming practices (that) has enabled the Balinese to become the most prolific rice growers in the archipelago (Indonesia)'. 

Looking Back at the Eastern Side of the Valley

As we reached the bottom, it was easy to see that we had just trekked down through an area that appeared to have shifted it's income from the traditional subak system of rice growing, to tourism. The heart-shaped set-ups and swings are all for the benefit of the world's 'instagrammers'!

The Western Side of the Valley

I couldn't find data about the number of visitors who come here, but as it is only 20 minutes from Ubud and little more than an hour from Denpasur airport, it is touted as the most popular place to see this type of terrace. Although UNESCO has recognized the cultural practice of sunak, Tegallalang does not appear on the UNESCO World Heritage list, so it does not get the protections from large-scale tourism such a designation would confer.

An Older Farmer Was Out Gathering Vegetation

So what happens, in an egalitarian system, when one side of a valley is making lots of money from tourists, while you're the one slogging away creating and maintaining the beautiful landscape that they are all coming to see? Although this farmer had indicated that photos were OK, perhaps the look on his face reveals an angst over being the subject of such attention.

You Want Me to do What!?

On the other hand, it might be a case of 'If you can't beat them, you might as well join them!' Nathan (our photography tour leader) had already arranged for another younger rice farmer to walk the paddies for us to photograph. Nathan also also asked this older man to join us - and of course offered to pay him. However, Nathan wanted him to 'go traditional' by taking his shirt and jacket off. In this photo, the exchange between our guide, communicating this, was received with a little animation - due to poor hearing or 'you want me to do what'!?

So Now We Have Two Farmers

He agreed and so we had the benefit of two farmers carrying their baskets for that 'perfect shot'.

But Who Does it Belong To?

Here is where the interesting story really starts to reveal itself. Our guide told us, that as resentments built up from those on the western (rice paddy) side, they approached the cafe and resort owners to ask for a share of the tourism money. It would not surprise you to know that their request was refused - so what did they do? Apparently they put up high walls so that people on the other side could not see the terraces! That must have got their attention!

Confrontation With a Knife!

I don't know if the community ever succeeded in getting money from the cafe owners in accord with their spirit of egalitarianism, but they did set up a small fee visitors are required to pay to enter. Opportunities to seek other sources of income, like our 'models', is hopefully to their benefit also. However, any spirit of co-operation was absent when this woman approached Nathan, and angrily declared that this she owned this paddy and that he needed to pay her for us to continue to photograph there. Neither of our farmers could (or would) confirm or deny her claim, so there was a fairly tense stand-off as she held her knife determinedly at her side!  Finally, Nathan succeeded in bargaining a settlement to her satisfaction and once payment was made, she left us to our devices.

What an Office!

As we returned back toward our vehicles, we saw many more workers in the paddies. We were amused at this woman's 'I Love Bali' shirt.

Instagrammers

Perhaps she'd scored it from 'instagrammers' like these, who were posing for their photos on the very same paddy where she was working! How peculiar! Perhaps my camera pointing at her also felt peculiar!

Using her Spine!

I was impressed with this woman who was carrying a container of new seedlings on her head, to be transferred from the 'nursery' beds to the big paddy.

Peace to You, Too

She stopped and gave me a lovely smile as we passed on the trail. I envied her sturdy and wide-brimmed hat.

Ankle Deep in Mud

Even ankle deep in mud, she was was able to eke out a half smile!

Sari Timbal Glass Factory

Following our immersion in green, we stopped by a glass factory, hoping to see glass blowing. Unfortunately they were not firing the kilns that day, so we had to satisfy ourselves with a few shots of their glimmering and rather chaotically arranged products.

The Final Product

It seems that they specialized in blowing the glass onto natural pieces of wood which provides an anchor for home decor - vases, bowls etc.

Matching the Glass to it's Wooden Companion

On this day, with the kilns at rest, the workers were busy matching the blown glass to the piece of wood it had been formed over. It appeared to be a random process, much like solving a jigsaw puzzle. I wondered if they would appreciate some type of numbering system that might make matching them less arduous!

President Sukarno and Garuda

Next to the glass factory was a small but rather magnificent sculpture garden - the Sari Timbal Art Gallery. It was a marvelous, outside venue with a smoky fish pond, orchids, little winding paths up into a tree house and some of the most incredible wooden carving I have ever seen. 

This magnificent carving of the first Indonesian President, Sukarno, acknowledges his role in freeing the country from Dutch colonialism in the 1940's. The sign also references his creating the basis of the state with five concepts known as Pancasilo - monotheism, civilized humanity, national unity, deliberative democracy and social justice. As with so many governing systems, the founding ideologies might not always become achieved in perfect form. 

A Magnificent Medusa

This medusa head was another example of the superb wood-carving that is created here.

Smoky Fish Pond

I can't let us leave this sweet spot, without showing you the loveliness of the smoky fish pond.

Lamp Shop

Our next stop was spontaneous - lamp shops on the side of the road - location unknown.

This is How Balinese Lamps are Made

I know I have walked into places like Pier One, Ikea, maybe even places like Home Goods and loved the look of these woven lamps. Google says they might be made of rattan, bamboo, jute and wood. I found it quite stunning to recognize, that this setting reveals the origins of these lovely things that we might choose to grace our homes.

Little Yellow Stools!

I imagine the workers must develop really healthy core muscles as they work perched on these little yellow stools! Was it a sweat shop? - I don't know. It was winter in Bali, so the temperatures were comfortably warm. 

Time Out for a Thumbs Up and Smile

The workers seemed happy. I just hoped they do get paid a living wage.

Beautiful Curves

I thought their creations were lovely!

Seaside Decor

Next door to the lamp factory was another shop that appeared to be a source of the type of painted wood carvings that we find in our local stores

Would This Sell Well in Fernandina Beach?

I thought this was a cute sign, but I also really like the carved mushrooms on the piece of wood it is hanging from.

Purah Tanah Lot

After checking in to our hotel in Tabanan (more on that in the next blog), we drove about 30 minutes to Bali's south coast to photograph this Hindu temple that was built on a rock jutting out into the ocean. Although people like us (and the other 500,000 visitors who come here each year) can walk out to the temple at low tide, only Balinese Hindus may climb the steps into the temple.

Batu Bolong Temple North of Tanah Lot

The low rays of the sun were starting to create that special light. Looking to the north, you can see the way the ocean erodes the limestone rock, creating arches like this and blowholes. This name of this smaller temple means 'hollow rock'. It apparently has a fresh spring within it. For good reason, it is regarded as holy water.

Looking For Best Sunset Spot

Sunset is the most desired time of day for many visitors to Tanah Lot. You can see here how it resembles a ship heading out to the ocean. No surprise to learn that it's name means 'land in the sea'.

Like Batu Bolong, the over 500 year-old temple is built on limestone, which has been subject to crumbling over time. In the 1980's, the structure became dangerous and it is thanks to restoration funding from the Japanese Government that it has been hardened and is now safe. Due to this, over one-third of the structure is now 'cleverly disguised' artificial rock! 

Ideal Spot?

We thought we had found a perspective that we liked, to get the sunset, but bemoaned 'all those people' getting in our way! How inconsiderate of them! Couldn't they see we were in a different 'class' of photographers with our tripods and fancy cameras?!

If You Can't Beat Them, Join Them!

It took us too long to figure out that maybe those bothersome people knew of a better spot - so we rapidly moved our tripods, got set up again.... and there you have it.

I always have an ambition to fit several days into these posts, but I come to the end of each day with the feeling that this is quite enough!

Next post will definitely be the last for my photography tour. After that, my daughters Robyn and Sarah join me for more travels, so stay tuned.