Wednesday, September 24th and Thursday, September 25th, 202 - Walking on the Wild Side - King's Canyon and Karrke Cultural Experience

Gosses Bluff Crater (Way in the Distance to the Right)

After we left Ormiston Gorge, we were headed to Kings Canyon, and there was little sign of  any 'civilization' along the dirt road during the last three hours. Although we stopped at this overlook to see the crater called Gosses Bluff, there were no bathrooms. In order to take a 'bathroom break', we sent the men off to the back of the bus and the women took turns using the one toilet on the bus! (Thank goodness there was one!)

It's believed that this crater was formed by a comet hitting the earth 142 million years ago. With sides that are 600 feet high and a circumference of three miles, it is one of the largest impact craters in the world. Much of it has eroded away over time, but it is believed that the original bed lies 1.24 miles below the surface today. Impressive!

George Gill Range (Watarrka) at Sunset

Once we arrived at the Kings Canyon Resort, the mountains we saw to the east were still part of the McDonnell Ranges even though we were 200 miles west of Alice Springs. Kings Canyon, where we plan to walk the next day is in this mountain range.

 The first European to set eyes on this view in 1872, was a man by the name of Ernest Giles. In order to launch his expedition, Giles needed money, and one of his benefactors was his brother-in-law, George Gill. The mountains already had a name - Watarrka - but either Ernest either did not know that, or did not care. (His journal reports that encounters with the indigenous people did not lead to contact, so he probably did not know their name for it.) Because he was the first to journal its existence, he had the naming rights, so he named it George Gill Range.

He describes it in his journal as follows ".....its southern face was open, grassy, and beautifully green; it was by far the most agreeable and pleasant country we had met."

The Rim of Kings Canyon - Only 800 Vertical Feet to Go

Ernest Giles had quite an adventure getting here in 1872, a story which our guides Glen and Colin shared with us in great detail. The telegraph line to Alice Springs was nearly finished, so the goal was to find a potential route to Western Australia. Due to a number of sponsors, Giles was well supplied with camels, and horses and one of the sponsors wanted to come along on the expedition - Samuel Carmichael. Our guides reported that Carmichael had been a rather large man, whom Giles initially refused because he thought him unfit for the journey. When Carmichael offered financial assistance, Giles relented and the dramatized version we heard on the bus described Sam's heft as having enabled him to rescue Giles in the middle of boggy salt lakes toward the end of their journey. (There is little information about Carmichael on the internet, so I couldn't confirm that he was as large as our guides suggested, or that he rescued Giles.) The highest peak in the George Gill Range was named Carmichael Crag in his honor. Kings Creek, where we were headed, was named after a childhood friend of Ernest Giles - Fielder King - so it has no royal implications. Giles found and named many features of the landscape here in Central Australia, during this 1872 expedition, but their goal of getting to Western Australia was folied when they ran into a large salt lake which he called Lake Amadeus (after King Amadeo of Spain). They were struggling to find water and getting bogged in the salt pans, and Samuel Carmichael said he was done. They returned to Adelaide without having found the desired route.

If you enjoy historical documents, the journal is online at https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00052.html#ch1.6. It is well written and quite a gripping read.

The Path Ahead - 500 steps Start of Kings Canyon Rim Walk

This was the climb I had been hoping I could do when we'd done the 'trial run' at Ormiston Gorge earlier. I knew it was an ambitious route for me, and I hoped my fate did not match that of Ernest Giles in 1872. The walk we were doing is called the Kings Canyon Rim Walk and although it's only four miles, they are tough miles for someone like me with knee issues. There were an initial 500 steps to reach the rim which was 600 vertical feet above me. Beyond that there were further ups and downs along the track as well. There was also no option for me to turn back alone, as the party needed to stay together after the first 250 steps - the point of no return!

As you see, it is a popular walk, there were many school groups and other large groups setting out in the early morning light. For the most part, the congestion eased once we got to the top. 

Emergency Call Device

Yes, I did choose to commit to the walk, and made it to the rim without issue. It was reassuring to see there was a 'telephone' up here to call for help! The most common problem people encounter is the heat, especially in the summer, and it is crucial for people to bring plenty of water. We were carrying 1.5 gallons, even though it was only September (spring here). There are also 600 foot cliffs and edges that can be unstable - people have died from both dangers here.

Vast Nothingness Behind Us

Maybe a flat-earther would appreciate this view, as beyond the mountain range, it was very flat and looked very empty. It is unimaginable that the Aboriginal people have figured out how to live here and have done so very successfully for 35,000 years. Our guide, Glen, was an Aboriginal man who grew on Tiwi Island, just north of Darwin. He reminded us that the indigenous people did not just survive, they thrived, with the knowledge they learned and passed down from generation to generation.

Peculiar Rock Formations - Domes (Or Kuninga Men)

It soon became apparent that this was a pretty interesting place, as the top was filled with many, many sandstone domes. The Aboriginal people called them Kuninga Men, which refers to young quolls - a carnivorous marsupial about the size of a cat. There was a sign, with a quote from a traditional caretaker of Watarrka, saying 'All that's native cats sitting there. They're still there. That one is really important. That dreaming is still there.' The area is now commonly referred to as the 'Lost City' and it did feel like a different world. I liked the image of it being formed by a lot of cats bottoms sitting around on top!

Another World

The geological explanation is that the rocks were originally cube-shaped blocks, with large cracks running at right angles to each other. The edges of the cracks over the years have worn down, leaving these unusual dome shapes. Similar domes are also found in Kata Tjuta (where we go after this), and the Bungle Bungles in Western Australia.

The Sheer Face of the Canyon - From the North Rim

The canyon itself was fairly narrow, as you can see here. The edge of the canyon is where the brightly lit section or rock ends - the trees, scree and vertical cliffs are on the other side. In the valley between the two rims, runs Kings Creek, 600 feet below.  Although we saw other groups lining up close to the edge for photographs, we exercised caution and kept our distance. The sheer face you see on the other side was where a chunk of rocks fell just a few years ago. Our route took us to the left and made a U-turn so that the end of the walk took us along the rim that you see on the other side, before our return to the valley floor.

Steps to The Garden of Eden

Almost mid-way, we came upon a series of steps. Without them this would have been quite a treacherous part of the walk. They led down into a gully called The Garden of Eden.

Looking Upstream Near the Garden of Eden

This was a complete change of scenery - a permanent water hole, cool and secluded.

Garden of Eden Waterhole

The waterhole itself had high U-shaped walls. The water was stored within a non-porous mudstone layer of the rock and is an important men's site for Aboriginal people. You can see what a haven it must have been for them in the past, away from the open, dry conditions out on the plains. We spent time here in silence, only interrupted by the call of birds as we contemplated the quiet beauty . We are fortunate that as rim walkers here, we had permission to access this special place.

A Dome in the Making

After we tore ourselves away from the cool and quiet of the waterhole, we came across this odd rock formation. When that little cap on top is made of a harder mudstone layer. When it falls away, you can see how the dome shape will be more complete. As we walked, we also saw ripples on the rock surface from the water that formed it, jellyfish and shellfish fossils. These sedimentary layers had not been folded, as they were still horizontal.

Looking Back to the North Rim

I could not take my eyes off this strange landscape, but all good things must come to an end. It was satisfying to look back to the other side where we had started a few hours back. Our progress as a group had been somewhat slow, compared to average times, but we could now see that the descent was ahead, and that we would probably 'make it' to the end.

Back to the Plains Below

We made it, tired but intact! 

My Best Effort at Interstellar Photography! The Milky Way

That night we were treated to canapes and bubbly overlooking the mountain range, until at sunset we saw a light and music installation by an English artist, Bruce Munro,  called 'Light Towers'. I do have some photos of it, but I have to confess, I don't think I really got into the spirit of whatever it was attempting to convey, and do not think any of my images are worth sharing. In the event you're really curious about it, here's a link to the promo. https://www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au/resorts/kings-canyon/activities-and-attractions/light-towers

Instead, I was more keen to get away from light, as I had been hauling my tripod with me all this time in hope of getting images of the Milky Way. The moon was gone and this was the opportune time. Without a vehicle I could not get away from the lights of the resort, so I hid behind the bus, which shielded some of the resort lights, and started my effort. I'd practiced my settings, had my little red-light head lamp, even caried gaffer tape!  I ended up with something - but I know I have a lot more to learn when it comes to photographing stars! Nevertheless, seeing the Milky Way was beautiful - so many mysteries out there!

Peter and Natasha Abbott, from Karrke Cultural Experience

On Thursday, we left the Kings Canyon Resort and made our way toward Yalara, the area that has been developed for visitors to access both Uluru and Kata Tjuta (More on them later). On the way, we stopped at this small venue, the Karrke Cultural Experience, where brother and sister (Peter and Natasha Abbott) oriented us to many aspects of Southern Aranda life.

Our guide, Glen, had told us that there are different rules in different areas regarding permissions for contact between brothers and sisters. When you consider that there were more than 250 Aboriginal languages spoken here and over 700 different dialects over this vast land, it comes as no surprise that there are many different customs, or lore. 

Glen had shared that at some point in his childhood, he had been told he was no longer allowed to hang out with his sister, because of the traditional lore that guides behavior where he lived on Tiwi Island. These were rules that were set in place where there were small populations, to prevent genetic intermingling that would compromise the health of the community. Glen said, if you break that lore, you're literally banished, or have spears thrown at you. That lore still exists and is practiced to this day in many communities. No doubt that would be terribly sad, but Glen told us that he was still able communicate with her using non-verbal signals and now, via her partner. He also shared that back in the day there were no rules about Instagram, Snapchat, Facebook etc, so they are able to stay in touch with each other that way, as well. 

The Southern Aranda people did not follow that lore, so Peter and Natasha were able to stand together and be our guides through a hour of much learning.

Peter Shows the Different Types of Ochre and Oxides

(Don't be distracted by Peter's fly net, over his face. These were a Godsend that helped us keep our sanity against the constant onslaught of bush flies!)

There were a number of different displays set up, each with a different focus - food, artifacts, art, ceremony etc. We were greeted with a 'Welcome to Country' and a call out to the ancestors so that they knew we were visiting and would not be threatened by the presence of strangers. We also were encouraged to step into he smoke of the leaves and bushes from the harlequin fushcia, which has spiritual healing properties, enabling the creation spirit ancestors to welcome us.

Natasha Taps a Witchetty Grub From an Acacia Root

My favorite part of the demonstration was learning about the witchetty grub (maku), which Natasha tapped out from the root of an acacia or eucalyptus. Even as a child, I always thought they looked delicious when I saw them in photos, but they never appeared in my world to touch or eat. Natasha said they can be eaten raw or cooked from May to August. They have good protein, fats and oils and taste like the tree they're found under -  like butter, or popcorn – lovely.

Witchetty Grub

Witchetty grubs are found in swollen roots which form around the them. They have to be tapped out. They are soft, but the head is not eaten. We were able to touch this one - it was very soft and squishy - almost like putting your finger into jello. Unfortunately there were none on the menu that day, so eating one remains on my bucket list!

Many Seeds, Fruits and Berries

We learned a great deal in our hour here. Regarding food I was struck by the great variety of seeds, fruits and berries that were available, and also by the very small size. None were like the huge delicacies we get in our supermarkets that are largely the result of generations of selection by farmers. Traditionally gathering and preparing these foods is done by women and girls, either picking or using their digging sicks. They take a long time to harvest and a great deal of knowledge. One must avoid poisonous varieties, and be sure that one is picking them at the right time. Knowing how to eat them is another skill to be learned - some are only used for the juice, some need to be ground up and fixed into cakes and some cooked on the fire like popcorn.

Beads for Tourists

In addition to collecting seeds for food, some were set aside for creating jewelry, which is sold to tourists like myself. In the summer, while women and girls sit in the shade of a tree, the seeds are dried and painted with acrylic paints. In the winter, they sit by the fire and score them with red-hot fencing wire to brand the patterns on them. This is not mass production - it is very time consuming. The art and artifacts are not priced like mass produced goods, and the value of their time was visible in the price. 

(I took notes on all of this, including the names of plants - I can't imagine it would be useful to anyone, but message me if you want me to send you a copy of the notes)

From the Bus

As we  travelled, I took many photos of the changing colors of the landscape from the bus. Yet the red earth was a constant the entire time. This is due to iron-rich minerals in the soil oxidizing or 'rusting' in the hot, dry climate over millions of years.

Kata Tjuta - the Olgas

As the sun set, we were able to see tomorrow's destination off in the distance - Kata Tjuta, which used to be known as The Olgas. Dust had been kicked up by buses arriving at the lookout we were sitting at. I liked the effect as the reddening  sun filtered through the swirling dust.

I hope you join us for our next adventures through Kata Tjuta and Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the next blog.