Sunday, September 21st through Tuesday, September 23rd, 2025 - Alice Springs and the West McDonnell Ranges

Post and Telegraph Office, Alice Springs

 The telegraph station in Alice Springs, became the first European settlement in Central Australia. Charles Todd was a modest man and did not want the station named after him so it was named after his wife, Alice, instead. Todd's successes earned him much recognition, including a knighthood, so he became Sir Charles Todd.

The Todd River, Alice Springs

Although Sir Charles did not have the town named after him, he did get a river! As you see, above, there is not much water in the Todd River. However, dig down a little and you will find water. It was a significant camping and ceremonial site for the Arrernte people who live here. When the early surveyors found that water can be reliably found beneath the surface, they believes its source must be a spring - Hence the name Alice Springs. Later, it was discovered it is standing water, not flowing from a spring, hence naming this place 'Springs' was a misnomer.

Each year a 'regatta' is held here - a 'boat' race called Henley-on-Todd. It is the world's only dry-river boating event in which Fred Flintstone might have had a chance! People race with inventions of all kinds and a great time is had by all. Ironically it had to be cancelled in 1993 because there was water in the river! Here's a link to a video if you want to see the type of antics that take place during this unique annual festival.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gyh3-hq-GdA.

Blue Haze Over James Range, Watercolor by Albert Namatjira

Soon after Fran and I left the train and joined the Outback Spirit tour group, we visited the Araluen Cultural Precinct, which had a significant collection of Aboriginal art. I was delighted to see this painting by Albert Namatjira, whose art depicting scenes from Central Australia, were popular during my childhood. In fact, I vaguely remember having a print of one of his images in our home. Namatjira was a consequential aboriginal artist who had been born and raised on a Lutheran mission - Hermannsburg - about 80 miles west of Alice Springs. In 1936, when Namatjira was in his 30's, he met and guided a painter who was visiting the area, Rex Batterbee. When he learned that Batterbee was able to make money selling his work, Namatjira asked him for lessons. Namatjira was a quick learner and two years later had an exhibition in Melbourne. His work became very popular, as his style met the aesthetics of European landscapes. It was also the first time that many Australians (myself included) saw images from the remote areas of Central Australia.

Namatjira was so successful that he became wealthy, but due to restrictions on Aboriginal people at that time, who were legally wards of the state, he was not allowed to own land to invest his money, so he applied for citizenship. You hate to think that the state granted him that status in order to collect taxes from him - but there's always that possibility, as in 1957 he and his wife became Australia's first (and only) Aboriginal citizens which allowed him to vote, own land, buy alcohol and be taxed.  There were further tragedies in his life, but his legacy was profound both for Australian art, and also for Aboriginal recognition and rights. It was not until 1967 that a referendum granted full citizenship rights to all Aboriginal people.

Rutjipmar (Mt. Sonder), by Kathy Inkamala

Namatjira's work gave rise to the Hermannsburg School of Painting, samples of which which were also on display in this gallery. This painting, above, was created in 2019, by Kathy Inkamala, whose grandmother was one of Albert's sisters.  As you see, the elements of this style of artistry include the depiction of the outback colors, and soft shapes of the McDonnell Ranges with flora (often trees), featured in the foreground.

View From ANZAC Hill

And here's the 'real deal' view from ANZAC Hill in Alice Springs. The West McDonnell Range is in the background, mottled colors of the vegetation and gum trees in the foreground. We saw many scenes like this during the next week.

Splash of Color From the Bus!

I chose to travel in spring, in the hope that I would see flowers, and I was not disappointed.

Yellow Billybuttons

Much of the yellow color comes from this ground cover called yellow billybuttons. They are common in dry conditions and are related to the daisy. They were plentiful at a venue we visited near Alice Springs - the Desert Park.

Narrow Leaf Fuschia Bush

There were many other wildflowers around - yellow, white, purple.... I was particularly enchanted by the delicacy of this small bloom which grow on bushes up to nine feet tall. It's a narrow leaf fuschia bush which is not a true fuschia, but is an Australian native plant that grows in arid conditions.

In the Desert Park, we saw kangaroos and dingoes, and looked for emus without success. They had an excellent nocturnal house where we were able to see many insects and reptiles which are only active at night.

Black Breasted Buzzard

The highlight of our visit here was a bird 'talk', where they showcased some birds, including this raptor, the Black Breasted Buzzard. It flew in as if it had just dropped in from the McDonnell  ranges - very dramatic!

How to Crack an Emu Egg

The Black Breasted Buzzard has learned an impressive skill. His species has figured out how to open emu eggs, using stones to crack their tough shells. As you see from the imitation plastic replica egg in the photo, they are quite large and provide a great amount of protein, so the bird's effort pays off handsomely. This buzzard did not get the customary egg contents, but there was a nice little lizard hidden in the plastic to reward him, after his rock had broken it apart.

Barn Owl

We also met a most adorable barn owl with this soft, heart shaped face. Somehow this shape improves it's ability to locate its prey in complete darkness. We were able to hear how it flies without making a single sound. It was most impressive.

Windmill at Outback BBQ Experience

Before we left Alice Springs, we were taken to an old cattle station east of the town, where we had a marvelous barbeque and damper meal.

A Truck Load of Plastic Galahs at Outback BBQ Experience

It was located in an old quarry, which caught the colors of the setting sun beautifully. The decor of old cars, tractors, and other farm 'junk' was whimsical, humorous and really felt like 'the outback'!

End of Day in the East McDonnell Range

As the sun set, we were treated to an outside 'lesson' by a comedic 'jackaroo' (cowboy) on the preparation of damper, a traditional staple of flour and water prepared over an open fire in a dutch oven. There was much estimating of ingredients, hands plunging into ingredients, flour flung here there and everywhere and a commentary that had us all regaled with laughter. Our meal was eaten, as their website states, 'underneath a chandelier of stars' and we were treated after the meal to 'an authentic bush balladeer singing timeless Australian songs', some of which I knew.

My Lagerphone Debut in Alice Springs (Photo by Glennon Babui)

 

Now, as you know, I am usually a shy and retiring person who does not seek the limelight, but something arose within when the bush balladeer mentioned that he was seeking volunteers to assist him with a few 'traditional' instruments. Somehow, I immediately knew that one of them was going to be a lagerphone and I immediately knew I wanted to be that volunteer! This is a very simple percussion instrument made from old beer bottle caps, and I was very familiar with it, as I had a great uncle, Bob McNab, who used to play it for us when we visited him and his wife Muriel, for afternoon tea in Sydney. My hand went up! There I was making a fool of myself in front of a crowd... and how I took to that lagerphone! It must have been in my blood, and thanks to Fran, we have evidence. This was my moment to shine when he invited me to do a solo!

No Bribery Allowed on This One! LOL! (Video by Frances Peters)

The following day, once I had managed to wipe the grin off my face, we headed out of town following the West MacDonnell Range.

Simpson's Gap

The 400 mile long McDonnell Ranges flank Alice Springs - one to the east, the other to the west. We were headed west, so that was the range that we followed. One feature of these ranges of relatively low mountains (rising 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the surrounding plains) is the many 'gaps' that are found, such as Simpson's Gap which you see above. I'd love to fully understand how such lovely places were formed geologically, but it seems very complicated when I google it! In essence, over very long periods of time, after a sandstone bedrock had been lain down under a large inland sea, the horizontal layers were folded and due to compression turned into quartz. During this compression and stretching of the crust cracks were formed as it was moved around by tectonic forces, Some magma, called dolerite, pushed its way into these fissures in the rocks. About 300 million years ago, these mountains were pushed up almost as high as the Himalayas - but now they have eroded down to current heights, exposing the cracks at the base. The dolerite erodes more rapidly than the quartz leading to these lovely breaks in the continuity of the mountains.

Red and Green at Simpson's Gap

Looking at the rocks, you can see where the red colors of the 'Red Centre' have come from! The soft greens give a beautiful contrast. These were the colors we would be surrounded by for the next week!

Standley Chasm

Of all these 'gaps', my favorite was Standley Chasm. Not only was it very dramatic and narrow, but the reason it wins in my affection stakes is the story of the person behind its name - Ida Standley. Ida was the daughter of an Adelaide butcher, and went to work as a 17 year-old governess to the Standley family at Mount Widunna Station. In 1887, at the age of 18, she married 35 year old George Standley. It was a harsh existence, as he was often gone, but she was hardy and raised four children while also working as a teacher. By 1903, her children were grown and the marriage failing, so she responded to an advertisement seeking a teacher in the newly formed Stuart Town (Alice Springs before the telegraph). Always prim and proper, fully dressed wrist to ankle, Ida took the fourteen day journey by buggy, to become the first teacher in Alice Springs. 

But that was not enough for Ida. Although she was really only required to teach white children, she insisted on educating the Aboriginal children - the white children in the morning, the aboriginal children in the afternoon. When the 'assimilation' policy was adopted, the mixed race 'stolen' children were housed near the Todd River in a corrugated iron tin shack with dirt floors. The conditions in the 'Bungalow' were terrible, with extremes of temperatures, and poor sanitation. With the help of another woman, Ida cared for and provided European education to up to 60 children at one time, many of whom called her 'Mum'. 

By 1928, the townsfolk decided they didn't want this 'institution' within sight, so moved it out of town, about 30 miles west. Not to be deterred, Ida joined them, delaying her retirement to live in a tent nearby, She stayed through the summer, but by 1928 her health had declined, and she moved back to Adelaide. Upon her death in 1948, the 'Beloved Lady' was widely mourned. She had been the only government teacher in Central Australia for 15 years. Her work had already been recognized in 1929, when the chasm was re-named from Gall, to Standley Chasm. 

Ellery Creek Big Hole

All of these 'gaps' shared similar elements, but each had them arranged in different proportions. Ellery Creek Big Hole was one of the few bodies of water in the area where a 'crocodile watch' was not needed, but instead, there were warnings about the temperature of the water, as it is extremely cold, deep and dark! In spite of the heat of the air, even n summer, people have developed hypothermia from prolonged exposure and there have been multiple drownings here. In spite of an emergency phone having been installed, rescue teams would take a while to arrive, as it is 50 miles from Alice Springs.

Willy Wagtail

The birds did not mind the cold water - there were ducks and peewees (magpie-larks) in the water and walking on the weeds, but my eye was drawn to this little willy wagtail which was flitting around. They are small, generally less than eight inches, but move rapidly as they feed. 

Tail Wagging!

As they move, they wag their tail back and forth - hence the name, Willy Wagtail. They are common throughout Australia, and they loved to help my father with his gardening, along with a couple of  peewees who appreciated the occasional worm that might be  revealed as he dug.

Ormiston Gorge - Ghost Gum Haven

Ormiston Gorge was the most westerly gap we visited - and the largest of the ones we saw. I was keen to see it, as I had heard that there has been an annual festival of acapella music performed under the rock overhang, with the audience sitting on the sandy beach opposite. When I Googled the event, I was saddened to learn that 2025 was the last year for this Desert Song Festival. You can see the set-up for it in the link below.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhtU5efMzBA

Only 250 Steps to the Top of Ormiston Gorge

Singing was not on my agenda on this day - it was the 250 steps (and 750 foot climb) to the lookout at the top of the gorge that was to be my challenge. This was the 'test' for us to assess whether it would be sensible for us to attempt a more challenging walk later in the week. 

Yay! I Made it to the Top - 750 Foot Climb

Happily, with the help of my anti-inflammatories and walking poles, I made it to the top to the lookout. The view above is looking to the north along the Ormiston Creek through the mountains ...........

Nothingness to the South

......... but turn around, and this is the view to the south! Central Australia is a desert and the horizon seems to stretch on endlessly - 750 miles to the ocean. Our next destination is 150 miles to the south-west - King's Canyon. That will be the next destination.

See you there!