Wednesday July 17th to Sunday, July 28th, 2024 - Shh - Keep This Volcanic Valley A Secret

 

Wollumbin at Sunset From Airplane near Gold Coast Airport

Looming at 3,800 feet, and just 18 miles from the ocean, Wollumbin, this ever present mountain, dominates one of the loveliest valleys in Australia that I have ever seen. The Tweed River, which runs through it, marks the border between New South Wales and Queensland along its last 10 miles. 

Panoramic View of Tweed Valley - Wollumbin at the Left.

Because my mother's family came from nearby Murwillumbah, and my sister Toni lives here, I have visited this valley on many occasions. The beauty of its lustrous pastures and lush vegetation continues to take my breath away each time.

Wollumbin From the Tweed Regional Art Gallery

Wollumbin used to be called Mount Warning, the name given by Captain Cook as he sailed past in May 1770 in the hope it would warn future sailors of treacherous reefs offshore. Its imposing presence evokes, in my mind, an old man lying on his back, nose pointed in the air. The current Aboriginal name was adopted in 2009. From the Bundjalung language, the word means 'fighting chief of the mountains', due to the way it dominates the surrounding landscape.  (It might also mean 'cloud catcher' - I like the old man better!)

I have climbed it twice, a four hour return trip requiring an early morning start  It is the nemesis of one of my family members who did not care for the steep climb near the top which was only aided by a heavy metal chain which one hung onto for dear life! That person will be happy to know they will never have to face the challenge again, as the peak is no longer open for climbing. It was closed during Covid and subsequently remained closed due to it being a sacred Aboriginal site.

Wollumbin from Murwillumbah Youth Hostel Association

I think you get the idea now that Wollumbin is visible for many miles - As far north at Queensland and as far south as Byron Bay. It is the core of a volcano that erupted 23 million years ago during the Miocene, as the Gondwanaland tectonic plate passed over a 'hot spot' deep below the earth's crust. The blast must have been pretty impressive, as it created a crater about 25 miles across. The entire region sits in the esulting volcanic caldera.

View From my Ewing Lane Kitchen Window

Even if one is not fortunate enough to reside in view of Wollumbin, the edges of the circular caldera surround the region and there are mountains to be seen from all over. As you might imagine, I didn't mind doing the dishes with this stunning view to the north. Commonly referenced as 'The Border Ranges' - it marks the border between New South Wales and Queensland. Two of these northern ranges are the Lamington and Sprinbrook plateaux. If one looks west, one sees the McPherson and Tweed ranges and the Nightcap Range is to the west. All form the edge of he huge caldera circling this valley.

Sugar Cane Fields Looking Toward Condong Mill

The fertile basalt soils, the flat flood plains surrounding the river and sub-tropical climate have created good conditions for sugar cane farming, which is the dominant industry here, followed by cattle/dairy farming, tropical fruits and tourism. The vapor from the Condong Sugar Mill was ever present, as it was harvesting time. Unlike the continuous emissions from the paper mills in Fernandina Beach, I was told the 'smoke' is all water vapor. 

A Sugar Cane Burn Nearby 

Prior to harvesting, the cane fields are burned to make it easier to process the sugar by removing stalks and leaves. In the past it also served to chase snakes and rats off the fields, to protect workers, but these days harvesting is done by machine, so that is less important. This fire was not far from where I was staying - it was raging one moment and then all of a sudden it was completely spent. The next morning revealed a perfectly rectangular brown patch where the green field had been the previous day. I have no idea how the farmers control the burn so precisely - they only burn on nights of no wind and I guess they have enough of a gap between fields to stop it jumping. 

Harvested Cane Field, South Murwillumbah

The next morning the sound of the harvesters could be heard and by the end of the day, the field probably looked like this one! Fortunately we did not get any 'black snow' from the burn.

Last Glimpse of Condong Mill

It seems that the days of burning cane might be coming to an end. Instead of being  burned in the fields and releasing lots of carbon into the atmosphere, there are efforts to utilize the unusable cane to generate energy for the valley. Here is a news article that tells more about this plan.

https://www.smh.com.au/environment/how-sweet-it-is-green-power-from-mill-20070331-gdpt9n.html

The 'Flood Pole' at Tumbulgum

Another, less fortunate, aspect of the nice flat land that is good for growing sugar, is the reality that they are actually the flood plains of the Tweed River. If you can magnify the writing on this pole above, from Tumbulgum, it provides a historical record of the floods they have experienced in recent years. The highest years noted on the pole show where the water would be at the the 1% or 1:100 year floods - which were recorded in 1954 and 2017. The very top of the pole marks where a .2% or 1:500 year flood would have reached. You will note there is no date there.

My sister, Toni, Points to Marker Showing Unprecedented Flood Levels on Tumbulgum Post Office Door

The reason nothing is marked on the flood pole is that the February 2022 flood waters were even higher than the 1:500 levels would be. The water peaked at 16 feet,  2.5 feet higher than the previous record from 2017, so they will have to build a new pole to show it - and come up with a new statistic! The Post Office was across the street, and the flood waters reached almost to the top of the door lintel, as you can see in the photo above.

It was, of course, a devastating event which continues to affect the area. There are many videos on YouTube depicting the drama of those days. This video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vKq3lpZYk8 shows some footage of Tumbulgum as a famous local surfer, Mick Fanning, helped to get the local pharmacist to Murwillumbah from Tweed Heads on a jet ski. My sister, Toni, was working at the evacuation center in Murwillumbah at the time. She said the rescuers landed at the rowing club and borrowed a 'ute' (pick up truck) to bring both the pharmacist and supplies to the evacuation center. Toni says "everyone was gobsmacked and all the young blokes at the centre suddenly jumped to their feet and ran up and down stairs carting supplies inside. The women were swooning, including me....Skye was able to open the chemist shop and distribute critical medicine to people who needed it. This was the highlight at the evacuation centre that day".

Building for Floods, South Murwillumbah

When building in the low lying areas, people design houses that are elevated, so that the flood waters can flow under the living level. In the past, this was mostly effective, but flood levels have been higher in recent years. The 2022 flooding extended way beyond the Tweed Valley - covering the entire Northern Rivers of New South Wales and Southern Queensland, so this style of construction is fairly typical throughout the region. In many of the stores when I asked, they said they just moved everything from the ground, store level, to upstairs and did fine.

The TFH Fencing Tells the Story - Government Buy Back in South Murwillumbah

However, many were not so lucky. Owners of this newly built house who thought they had planned properly have chosen to walk away with the help of a government 'Resilient Homes Program' which is buying back houses on a voluntary basis.  Their beautiful property is now fenced and empty along with many others in the neighborhood. The government program will also provide money to raise houses even higher, or retrofit for flood resiliency. As I walked through South Murwillumbah, I wondered how life would feel for those who choose to stay - I imagine loss of neighbors would make it a much less enjoyable place to live.

'House On A Hill' Near Tweed Regional Art Gallery, Murwillumbah

For those who live on hills, the hazards are not as great - but being prepared for days without any way to get on or off their property is wise. In some ways it must be like hurricanes without the wind.

Cabarita Beach

Oh, my - there I was telling you how wonderful this area is, and then spent all that time going on about the downsides of living here! So now back to the good stuff........like a visit to Cabarita Beach - just 18 miles from Murwillumbah. Unlike our Florida beaches which are basically one continuous stretch of sand, the beaches here are tucked between rocky headlands. The vegetation n this area is dominated by pandanus trees. I loved the canopy lane-type paths that revealed the gorgeous blue ocean beyond. I was also thrilled that, like Fernandina Beach, they still offer free parking, though it seems similar battles between residents and council might end that in the future.

A Stunning Place to Walk a Dog - Cabarita Beach

Toni and I climbed the boardwalk to the headland - the 'birds-eye view' was fabulous. The vast expanse of uncrowded beach looking south was very inviting. Of course it's winter here and it was a week day - no doubt it gets more crowded in summer. 

Humpback Whale Breaching off Norries Headland - Cabarita

The headland provided a wonderful view over the ocean - great for whale watching at this time of year as the great Humpback Whales migrate north. My lens was just long enough to pick up some of the details - very thrilling. Whenever there was a good breach, one heard a gasp from the gathered watchers. Chasing the gasp with the lens was often too late! 

Pectoral Fin Slap - Humpbacks off Norries Headland - Cabarita

Another behavior I saw in the whales was the pectoral slap. It, too is pretty dramatic. The only consistent explanation that I found on Google is the probability that it is a mating behavior. 

Surf's Up, Cabarita Beach

The height of the headland also allowed me to witness other animal behaviors, from the old.............

Surf's Up, Cabarita Beach

..........to the young! Some may say this is a mating behavior, too, but I think it's just because it's fun, especially on a beautiful day like this one!

Morning Mist Looking North From Ewing Lane, Murwillumbah

When I started this blog entry, I imagined that by the end of it, you would want to tell all your friends about this beautiful valley so that they might add it to their travel list, Clearly, I'm hoping that won't happen, because I also told you about the hazards that go along with living here. 

Frangipani Tree Overlooking Tweed River, Murwillumbah

I have spent time here during intermittent visits since childhood, visiting my aunt, uncle and sister. This frangipani tree reminds me of the one at my aunt's house where, as children, we used to string the beautiful waxy petals into leis that we hung around our necks. When I se this view I rejoice and in my heart feel it is one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen. So, shh - don't mention it to anyone!

 

Sunday, July 14th to Wednesday, July 17th, 2024 - Canberra

Approaching Canberra From Yass

As we approached Canberra, the eucalypt dotted rolling hills were green, the sky crisp with wispy clouds. The green-ness is something you don't see all the time - especially not in summer . During the hottest months, colors will be more likely a browned-off yellow.

Ganmain Hotel

  I had promised you more photos from a few small towns we passed through on our trip. Perhaps you look at this photo of yet another pub and groan, but that's what we've seen here! We travelled via Junee, when we heard of its licorice and chocolate factory - an unlikely industry we thought. I guess it's beer or candy in this region!.

Ganmain. Do They Own the Pub?

Before we leave the beer theme, I have to share a photo this old shed in Ganmain. There were probably about 10 houses total in town along with the fine pub you saw in the previous photo. I just wondered if the owner of this old building got money from the breweries to use his tin shed for advertising, or if he owns the pub! LOL

 Licorice and Chocolate Factory, Junee

Had I come to Junee a decade ago, I would have been in big trouble with this lovely factory, which was converted from an old flour mill. Licorice is a vice of mine that my body now objects to, so I had to be satisfied with just a small sampler of dark chocolate and ginger, which I was pleased to tolerate OK.

Chocolate Making Tumblers, Junee

It was fun watching the candies (here they would probably call them lollies) roll around and around in the large copper drums - I presume the chocolate coating is gradually added and them tumbled to coat the different centers evenly. It looks like this was some type of green colored version of chocolate! There were other lovely towns we whizzed through - my camera itched, but I had to resist its calling! Perhaps next time......

National Museum of Australia, Canberra

Following our visit to Mungo, I was interested in learning more about the Aboriginal culture here. The First Nations people are often recognized in public places and at public functions, through acknowledgments of those who had lived in each area before the white settlers arrived. In that spirit, I must tell you that the Ngunnawal, Ngunawai and Ngambri peoples have lived in the Canberra region for more than 20,000 years.

View From Main Hall National Museum of Australia

I loved the dramatic design of the museum, both inside and out - perched on a promontory of Lake Burley Griffin, not far from the city center. The main hall was an impressive, expansive space.

Headdresses from the Torres Strait Islands

The museum had a First Australians exhibit which covered the heritage and culture of both both the Aboriginal and the Torres Strait Islanders who are are also acknowledged as an indigenous group. They are ethnically and culturally distinct from the aborigines and come from Melanesian islands which are part of the state of Queensland.  I thought these headdresses quite beautiful.

Display Showing Fire as a Traditional Land Management Strategy

When I was growing up, we were taught that the first Australians were solely nomadic hunter gatherers, but in recent years historians and anthropologists have learned that the Aboriginal people had fixed plots of land that belonged to different family groups. Land management techniques included the use of fishing traps, sowing and storing plants, and fire.  Fire was a way to encourage regeneration, to create new growth in edible foods and to draw game for easier hunting - a form of farming. They didn't use flame throwers as depicted here, but would utilize some type of firestick. Reports from the first white settlers observed that the 'bush' ('forest' for Americans) looked like parkland. When Europeans took over land management and burning stopped, the bush developed much more undergrowth and became 'wild' by comparison.

Austracism (or 'Ostracism'?) by Vernon Ah Kee 

It's no surprise to learn that deep divides and racism have pervaded the history of relationship between the 60,000 year-old culture and the modern world that has crashed into it. This print by Aboriginal artist Vernon Ah Kee, shows a backdrop of many predicable comments about aboriginal people, interspersed frequently with the words 'I'm not racist, but....' As was the case in Canada and the US, attempts to help integrate cultures in the late 19th and early 20th century led to children being taken away from their families by 'children's services', especially if the authorities thought they were of mixed race. This 'Stolen Generation' of children were raised in institutional children's homes. The movie The Rabbit Proof Fence is a compelling depiction of this practice, if you haven't yet seen it.

Motherproof Fence, Fay Clayton, 2012

The hurt and isolation this caused, is depicted in this poignant work of art, along with several others,  that were on display. 

While there is much more work to be done, Australia has made some strides to right wrongs of the past. I was deeply moved by this video of the famous 'Sorry' speech that was presented in the Australian Parliament by then Prime Minister, Kevin Rudd, in 2008. When I heard of this speech years ago, I thought it rather inconsequential - 'How does throwing off a trite 'Sorry' make any difference?' I thought then. Seeing this brief video of both the speech and audience reactions and learning about the importance of 'Sorry Business' in the Aboriginal culture, helped me to see that for First Australians, a statement like this acknowledged their huge experience of grief and loss and allow for the process of letting go.

Two Figurines at the Aboriginal Embassy Outside Old Parliament House, Canberra

Another source of pride for me as an Australian, is the 'Aboriginal Embassy' that was set up outside Parliament in 1972 when I had been a student here. It has not been removed by government and has stayed in place 52 years. It is the longest continuous protest for indigenous land rights in the world. I had to stop by and see if it was still there. Indeed the tents were still there, but I was disappointed that it was not manned and active. These two didgeridoo players were clay figurines.

Some of the Tents of the Aboriginal Embassy

There were more tents and a sign that said 'Under Construction' behind this area. I hope that it continues to be active and able to represent their point of view with the hope it might help all toward solutions that are healthy and respectful. 

National Art Gallery

The National Art Gallery was not far from the Embassy, so I stopped in briefly.

The Aboriginal Memorial

I had seen this beautiful exhibit during visits some years ago and was moved by it then. It is a memorial created in 1987/88 commemorating the Australian Bicentenary - the 200th anniversary of European occupation in this land. It is made up of 200 hollow coffin logs from Central Arnhem Land. It was conceived by an artist/curator, Djon Mundine, who is a member of the Bundjalung people of northern New South Wales. The work of Djon and 44 other artists, it represents a forest of souls - a war memorial of sorts to those Aboriginal people who died defending their country. I had found it hauntingly beautiful when I saw it before, and experienced it the same again.

And thus endeth my lesson on things Aboriginal - my knowledge and experience is very limited so that's all I can share on that subject.

Looking Toward the City of Canberra

The city has changed a great deal in the 50 years since I lived there. This lakeshore had no high buildings around it when I went to university here.

Northborne Avenue

In the past, the tallest buildings in town were the two rows of yellow looking, two-story buildings along both sides of this avenue - East and West Rows.

Cityscape?

Now the skyline almost feels like a city. The population is about 4000,000, so it is not very large - just starting to grow up.

Light Rail to Gungahlin, a Northern Suburb

They have put in light rail to the north of the city. It is not without controversy as some residents feel that it is costing too much.

Construction for Light Rail Going South

Not to be deterred by grumbles, city planners are already starting work on a light rail system going to southern suburbs. The cost of going over or under Lake Burley Griffin will be substantial. No doubt future residents will appreciate the service.

A Shakespearean Look at Covid-19 Mural Near Australian National University

Australia took an isolationist approach to Covid-19 during the pandemic. Being an island and remote from the rest of the world, they tightly controlled borders, requiring strictly supervised 14 day quarantines for anyone arriving in the country. Borders were often closed between states and even areas within cities would be shut down and have stay at home orders overnight, if an outbreak occurred. The 2024 statistics from Wikipedia report a death rate here of 964 deaths per million. This compares to 3,519 per million in the USA. Of course, the lower death rate came at a high economic cost due to loss of tourism, entertainment etc. I couldn't find any information about this mural, but it evoked the angst of that time in our lives.

Gaza Protests at Australian National University

Although far away from the rest of the world, the university students, along with others, are very much aware of important events in the world and took space to convey their opinions about it. I'm not sure how long his encampment was there. I understand they were given a deadline in May to move the camp, or else....... so they relocated 150 feet down the road! I guess it will be an unfolding story.

University Avenue

The welcoming flags on University Avenue had a slightly Asian feel about them. I thought they were cheery and welcoming. ANU is my alma mater, but I was hard pressed to find much that looked familiar. The student body was much more culturally diverse and the campus was bustling. (It is winter here, so school was in session.)

The Research School of Chemistry

There were new modern designs......

Looking Toward Chifley Library

....... which mostly looked pretty decent.

Site of the Old Student Union

I was glad to see, although the building has been replaced, that the lawn in front of the old student union was left alone. I had trekked across it many times in bare feet, because that was the hippie thing to do then. We even held a sit-in to demand the right to have bare feet in the Geology labs. We lost that battle! (To the credit of the profs!) I could also mention that the bra was also abandoned during these times, but perhaps that is TMI?

University Avenue looking West

I liked that the campus seems mostly pedestrian only. The avenue of trees must be delightful in the spring, summer and even fall. The old Geology Department was on the right hand side, but I think it is now biochemistry.

The Shine Dome - Australian Academy of Science

In the event you think this futuristic building is newly built, it was actually constructed in 1959. It got the nickname 'The Martian Embassy'  to fit in with all the other embassies in the nation's capital! It lights up at night and with the moat around it can appear quite otherworldly. Due to its circular shape, furniture had to be custom built. Its design is acclaimed now - it was the first Canberra building to be added to the National Heritage List for architectural and historical significance. It has been nominated to be put on the World Register of Significant Twentieth Century Architecture.

Modern Man by Tim Kyle

Moving on to ugly now, this statue was near my sister's apartment - we saw it every time we drove in! I figured it must have been depicting a 'fat cat' politician. Apparently it is supposed to represent the dilemma in our modern world, of having too many choices. A quote from the artist Tim Kyle says it represents 'a man lost because of his choice of direction(. He's) on the verge of going forward, but yet is uncertain as to which way'. I was certain that he has not weathered well, although I read that he was unpopular among men even when he was new. Apparently more women thought he was a good piece of art!

Giant Raven? Guarding the door of Dionysus

The whole area of New Acton is a combination of high rise residences, but at the ground level a charming network of paths and gardens with quirky and interesting art installations. I liked this one in particular with the large bird hovering over the doorway of Dionysus, an event planning business.

Crow?, Raven?, Eagle? You Tell me!

He did have a rather menacing stare, so I have to presume that he was some type of guardian. For some reason, I was quite taken by him - perhaps because he was integrated into the building itself, rather than being a free standing element.

Lorikeet

I enjoyed my time in Canberra. It was brief, but pleasing to see the transformations that are occurring. As was the case elsewhere, we saw galahs and cockatoos, but I did not get any photos worth sharing. I don't remember finding lorikeets in Canberra before, but I was delighted to find this colorful creature enjoying the grevilleas near the museum. He truly was a brightly colored little fellow!

Aboriginal Embassy, Old Parliament House and New Parliament House

I promised you I would get a photo of the new Parliament House from the front before I left. On the way to the airport, we stopped off at a viewing area to see it from across the lake. You can see some of the colors and white tents in the right foreground that are the Aboriginal Embassy. Behind that is the lower white building of the old Parliament House. Above and behind that you can see the vertical columns of the white façade, with the green face of the new Parliament House. Most distinctive soaring above everything is it's soaring flagpole which can be seen from many different places in the city. You can just see the grassy sides of the building sloping off on both the left and the right. If you ever get to Canberra, it is worth visiting.

I hope you've enjoyed this brief glimpse of Canberra.