Wednesday, April 9th, 2025 - A Day in Puerto Varas, Chile

 

Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus, Puerto Varas, Chile

Puerto Varas  is almost directly due east of Bariloche, on a glacial lake called Lago Llanguihue, the second largest lake in Chile. The name comes from the Mapuche language and means 'the place that one dives into water', which makes sense. I never did pronounce the name of the lake with any confidence, but Google does offer tools to learn to pronounce it - sounds a bit like 'sankyway' if you want to try to plant it in your brain.

 Lago Llanquihue - Keep Watching This Space for the Volcano

When Google says there is rain 200 days of the year in Puerto Varas, it should not surprise you to know that we were greeted with rain. Our hotel was situated right on Lago Llanquihue, and it was a stormy, wet windy night by the time we'd settled in after dinner. We were told there was a volcano out there. In fact there were apparently two volcanos. If you look again at the photo, you can see the hint of something across the lake. I kept peering across the water......

Vicente Perez Rosales National Park - Calvuco Volcano is Out There Somewhere!

Not to be deterred, the next day we set out for a National Park nearby -  the Vicente Perez National Park. It sometimes offers views of both the Osorno and Calvuco Volcanos, but that was not our fate on this day. Due to the mountains catching the humidity coming in from the Pacific Ocean, the rainfall here is even higher than in Puerto Varas - more like 120 inches over 360 days of the year! This has created a Valdivian rainforest - a form of temperate rainforest found in this area.

Water Water Everywhere! Sendero Los Enamorados, Vicente Perez Rosales National Park

I always say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! So off we went on a walk through the park, which was teeming with cascades and rivulets. In case you're admiring our resolve, I have to confess that it was not actually raining - just beautifully cloudy and wispy weather with mild temperature. 

Vicente Perez Rosales National Park

There were lovely little areas in the rainforest,  but no autumn colors here. There were occasional signs posted suggesting that a spot would make a good place to meditate a while. The reflections in the pond you see above was one nook that I thought deserved contemplation.

Saltos del Rio Petrohue

There was a walkway out to a set of falls on the Petrohue River. As this is autumn here, the water is probably lower than it would be in spring, when snow melt would add to the rain. It was a dramatic rocky landscape. On sunny days, the clouds you see in the background, would reveal the stunning peak of the Osorno volcano - it would look like a snow capped Mount Fuji towering above the landscape.

Basaltic Lava Flow Remnants, Saltos del Rio Petrohue

Google reveals that before these falls were here, there was one large glacial lake. Osorno is a Hawaiian style, gentle volcano and the basalt flows from it created this blockage, forming two lakes around 600 years ago. The waterway is now divided into Llanquihue and Todos los Santos lakes. Eruptions from Osorno ended in 1869, so at this time all is calm here. 

In contrast, the Calvuco volcano has activity recorded back to 1906, with the most recent event in 2015. Unlike Osorno, it is a stratovolcano - the type that tends to spew forth ash and rocks and can be explosive. Its eruption spread as much as two feet of ash in some places and thousands of people were evacuated.

Saltos del Rio Petrohue,- Calvuco to the left, Osorno to the Right (Both in the Clouds)

It might not surprise you to know that Chile has over 2,000 volcanoes, and about a quarter of them are considered to be potentially active. Perhaps it is a relief to Chileans to know that only 90 are actually active at present! It is part of the Pacific 'Ring of Fire'. In this region, the volcanic activity is due to the Nazca Tectonic Plate plunging down under the Atlantic Plate. Chile is second only to Indonesia for having the greatest number of active volcanoes in the world. 

Peru-Chile Trench, Puerto Varas near Blue 'X'

In addition to the volcanos, there is a deep ocean trench 100 miles off the coast of Chile, which is 40 miles wide, almost as deep as Mt. Everest (26,460 feet below sea level) and stretches 3,366 miles north-south. We are close to the southern end of that trench, shown on the map here with a blue 'X'.

Sweet Spotting - Otter?

As we were leaving the national park, one of our sharp-eyed group members spotted this little critter in a river bed under a pedestrian bridge. Well, who doesn't love things like otters, so I spent some time trying to catch a photo of him out in the open. It turns out he was a weasel - an invasive species from Argentina. Our guide notified the park rangers so they could attempt to trap and re-locate him. Oh, well, did my best to show you some wildlife!

Historic Wooden House

Puerto Varas was settled as recently as 1853 as a result of a government initiative to move people into this sparsely populated region of the country. You can see from the map above, that the coast to the south of here becomes very broken up with islands and fiords. In fact even today, driving down the western coast involves ferries and is very slow. People generally come over and drive through Argentina, but this can be inconvenient with the slowness of the border crossing here in some of the remote places.

Historic Wooden House

The people who came here were from Germany and were seeking a new home following turmoil following their homeland's failure to establish democracy at that time. These were people who were seeking political and economic freedom. 

I found the contrast with the Bariloche architecture quite striking, even though both groups of settlers were from Germany. In fact, many of those in Bariloche had come through Chile. It makes sense when you think about it - Argentinian Germans were on the edge of the more-or-less barren steppes. They  had rock, not trees, so they used the andesite to build their town. 

The historic houses here are built from a type of wood called alerce, or Patagonian cypress. It was native to this area, and it was excellent for resisting moisture and insects, so was a very desirable building material, and the immigrants came with the woodworking skills to utilize it well. As is so often the case with human endeavors, they overdid it, and the wood it now protected. Any repairs must be done with re-cycled shingles.

Another Historic Wooden House!

One of my favorite activities when I get to new places is to follow my nose and see what turns up, so I spent some time wandering around this old historic area, which was at the top of a hill. I did like the soft looks of the wooden houses and love the signs of endurance when old buildings are left to show their age. 

This was the only time on this trip that I turned down an alternate activity due to my troubled knees. Some of the group members were over on the Osorno volcano while I wandered. I understood  that  outing had the potential to be vertically challenging and I wanted to save my knee functioning for the activities I was banking on further south. Oh, but my heart was aching for that volcano adventure!

Wall Mural

This wandering was my consolation prize.

Thank You Artists of the World!

I just love it when something like a dull old shed get turned into a thing of beauty with a deft hand behind a paintbrush!

COMBAS Conservatory of Music and Fine Arts

The travel company I was with, has a charity division and includes a visit to the sites they support on each of heir trips. We had the good fortune of visiting the COMBAS school here, met the founder Jean Paul Harb and were treated to a mini piano recital. 

COMBAS Conservatory of Music and Fine Arts

Jean Paul described his stumbling over this town when he came to a piano competition in Puerto Montt, south of here. He was drawn to the area and saw that there was no opportunity for young people to learn music. Due to the cold winters, tough climate and a high poverty rate (20%) local youth are at risk for delinquency and addiction. Jean Paul found this old house, which was built in 1907, and with the help of other musician friends, started the task of renovating it and establishing a small music conservatory.

Eight Year Old, Constanza Plays for Us

Our young recitalist was eight years old and has been playing for three years. When we asked what music she likes to listen to in her own time, she cited a piece by Chopin, or Liszt - I don't remember the details, but she knew exactly what it was. Jean Paul told us that her father plays another musical instrument at home, so she and her dad play music together. 

Jean Paul described himself as a poor businessman. He said when he gets money, he finds himself offering scholarships to children in need. With the help of the Grand Circle and other charities, the school has grown to offer training in other art forms, have installed adequate toilets, improved winterization and established a small day school with private students. 

Jean Paul says that he has found his life's purpose here.

Dance Studio

More is needed. As I stood by the baby grand in tis studio, I saw water droplets from the rain landing on the piano. Fortunately it was covered, but the needs are very clear. I love the goals of this this project and hope they have long term success. There is more information here.

 https://grandcirclefoundation.org/schools/combas-conservatorio-de-musica-y-bellas-artes-del-sur/

Home Hostess, Jacqueline Cerda and Her Husband

Our day ended with a home visit. Our hostess was Jacqueline Cerda, but I regret I don't recall her husband's name. We had a lovely meal and were able to talk about many aspects of life here. He was a landscaper, and said his business was doing very well. He spoke of immigrants from Haiti working for him and  how pleased he was with their hard work and loyalty. Jaqueline worked in health care. Their two daughters are away at university and they described their parenting choices in limiting their girls access to TV and internet as they grew. Jacqueline was a weaver and there was no TV in the living area.

Their home was constructed from four shipping containers that were secured, had the inner walls removed and finished to look like any other home. It was a very welcoming space.

As the evening came to a close, we were sent off with some beautiful music. Clearly they enjoyed singing together.

Osorno Volcano (Overly Processed - Sorry!)

The next morning when I looked out of the hotel window, there were more glimmers of some sort of mountain on the other side of the lake. Mostly it was hazy and the clouds continued to hover, but momentarily, as the dawn broke through, the mountain could be seen. It was very hazy. I have tried to process it to show you how much it is like Mount Fuji. I was pleased that it revealed itself, even to this extent.

Our next destination is a ferry ride and a few hours drive to the south of us - Chiloe Island. 

Stay Tuned.

Monday, April 7th to Tuesday, April 8th, 2025 - Indigenous Heritage of Bariloche and Over the Alps to Chile

 

Julio Argentino Roca - President 1898 to1904

Sometimes history is hard to face. The town square in Bariloche proudly hosts a statue of General Julio Roca, who was clearly admired in times past. You might notice some discoloration on the stone - a little red and green. The other side had more red (but is was in the shade, so didn't photograph as well). Marta told us that at Christmas time the statue is covered by the town's Christmas tree. So far, he has not been removed.

Yes, General Roca has become a troubling figure in Argentine history, as he was responsible for conducting a military operation which killed, displaced or enslaved indigenous peoples, especially the Mapuches, who lived here. It was euphemistically called Conquest of the Desert, which implied that no-one lived there. While Roca is also appreciated for other actions he took to promote the development of Argentina, the red marks on the statue reveal people's ongoing displeasure for the human cost of that development.

Dario Antihue From Mapuche Community

To help us grasp the controversial history of the indigenous populations here, our travel company arranged for us to meet with Dario Antihue, a member of a local Mapuche tribe which continues to have a presence in this area. I had never heard of this tribe before, and it was pointed out that the ending 'che' is shared with North American tribes also - like Apache, Comanche, Cheyenne - suggesting a linguistic connection. Googling revealed that the 'che' means 'people', so the name of the tribe means means 'people of the land'. Another tribe which inhabited this area in the past were called the Tehuelche, but more on them later. 

Historical Distribution of the Mapuche

The name Bariloche comes from a Mapuche word - 'Vuriloche', which means people who give their backs to the mountains - meaning that they were the Mapuche who lived east of the Andes, as they would have their backs to the mountains during ceremonies. The people came here from Chile, before the arrival of white colonists. There are many parallels with the experiences of indigenous people's in the United States - but the Mapuche still have not been granted any communal land rights. Culturally they are re-establishing language and practices. Dario told us that his grandmothers would make the children leave the room when they spoke Mapuche language, but he said they listened through the door! He also shared that one of his grandmothers had been captured by the Mapuche as a child. She chose to stay, which he said was not unusual. 

Elders and Women Valued in Mapuche Symbols

Dario told us that women play an important role in keeping language alive and providing leadership. The symbolism he shared with us, which is also reflected in their flag, shows both male and female, young and old. The society is neither matriarchal or patriarchal - identity comes from family, rather than individual personhood. Nature is a large part of identity also. The Mapuche don't see themselves 'owning' nature, rather they represent that they 'are' nature. This is ironic in the modern world, as the dilemma of European view of 'ownership' has left them in a limbo. Due to their leaders' advocacy, a law was established in 2006 to prevent evictions of indigenous communities. This was to allow time for surveys to be conducted by the National Institute of Indigenous Affairs. The law continued to be extended until 2023, when the newly elected and current President, Javier Miele, suspended it. Pressures from mining companies, ranchers and international corporations have increased the resistance for government grants giving access to ancestral lands and evictions have occurred recently, within the national park here near Bariloche. Unfortunately, the success of tourism also increases value of the land creates a bigger hurdle for the Mapuche to succeed in recovering the land they once inhabited freely.

Clearly his is not a story which has a 'happy ending' yet. In the event you want to read more, the following article from Al Jazeera provides a historical summary and describes details about a recent eviction in this area.

https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2023/11/16/the-land-is-still-alive-a-mapuche-leaders-fight-for-home-in-argentina

A New Day! 

We had enjoyed our time in Bariloche, but the Tuesday morning was time for us to head across the mountains to Chile. We left early in hope of crossing the border before other larger bus loads of travelers arrived at the border crossing, which can sometimes be slow. The rising sun would be to our backs, but our route briefly took us around the lake where the beauty of the morning sky held the promise of a new day for us.

Lenticular Cloud

As we turned to the west and toward the mountains we saw a fabulous lenticular cloud hovering over Nahuel Huapi Lake. (BTW, the name of the lake means 'island of the pumas' in Mapuche language.) This type of cloud forms over mountains, but this one was special - both lit up by the morning sun and looking a bit like an alien spaceship.

The Promise of Snowy Peaks

In my mind, the name 'Andes', speaks of towering peaks and treacherous roads with shaky buses struggling through, but I had to be reminded that this far south, the mountains are not high. This pass, the Cardinal Santonio Samore Pass, is one of the easiest passes across the Andes and one of the few that is paved in this region. The pass itself is only 4,300 feet high, and the highest mountain we saw was 7,336 feet. However, the bonus prize for me was that this, and another nearby mountain, were both volcanoes! You know that made me happy!

Bar & Grill, Route 40 in Villa La Angostura

The road we were on is one of those iconic roads - similar to how we regard Route 66 - which stretches  around 3,200 miles north-south. One charming town we passed through on the route was the village of Angostura. It was a trendy resort town, smaller than Bariloche. Marta told us that it is another ski resort and even more 'high end' than the place we were leaving. 

Villa La Angostura

However, it is a town that is placed in an unfortunate space. It is near one of the volcanos I mentioned, which erupted in 2011. The village was covered in 8 inches of ash as well as having disruptions of power and water.  But for the souls in this village, it was not just a 'one and done' event - it went on for 10 months. It must have been a time of great uncertainty.

Nothofagus Fall Colors

I was thrilled to se the colors in the landscape - I had chosen to travel in April in hope of seeing the fall colors and as we went to higher elevations, it was pleasing me greatly. (Remember seasons are reversed in the southern hemisphere - so our spring is their fall.)

Pantojo Cerro

Seeing this volcano show up finally was pretty thrilling, too. This one is Cerro Pantojo, and is the plug of an extinct basalt stratovolcano. It is not the one that erupted recently. It is the type of volcano one finds in Hawaii, where the lava flows smoothly and doesn't blow up. I thought it was lovely, the way its 6,640 feet towered over the landscape. Although there has been no activity for 10,000 years I was surprised that the vegetation along its slopes have not taken root in that time.

Nahuel Huapi National Park

The Chilean border is also the edge of the Nahuel Huapi National Park which we had been enjoying in Bariloche. It is the first national park established in Argentina, in 1922. 

When General Roca's was conducting the 'Conquest of the Desert' in the late 1800's, the government  was also trying to define clearly their border with Chile. To assist in that effort, an explorer and scientist, 'Perito' Moreno, was called upon for his knowledge of the area. Moreno was a conservationist comparable to John Muir in the United States. After he had helped define the national borders, Moreno was granted substantial acreage in the region. 

Yellowstone had already been established as a national park in the USA, 

but it was after acting as a guide for Teddy Roosevelt who visited here in 1913, that Moreno decided to donate his land for it to become this national Park. It now serves as a 'no man's' land that helps to reduce border tussles that might otherwise arise. We will learn more about Perito Moreno later in our trip.

Dead Trees From 2001 Eruption

As we travelled, we came across swathes of vegetation that had clearly been destroyed in the recent eruption of the other volcano.

The Top Blown Off - Puyehue Volcano

This is the culprit that caused the trouble for the village of Angostura. I have to admit I found it a little underwhelming - probably because most of it is gone! Puyehue is actually a massif created by two volcanic mountains - the other one is called Cordon Caulle. Unlike the older, inactive volcanic plug we had just seen, this is the variety of mountain that is explosive and here you can see the way it has 'blown its top' off - similar to Mount St. Helens in Oregon. However, it was no respecter of national borders. The impact of the eruption in 2011 affected Argentina more than Chile - the ash also covered Bariloche, and the airport in Buenos Aries was closed. The impact even went as far as Melbourne, Australia, where the airport was also closed.

Back on the 'Ground'! Dairy Cows in Chile!

What a difference rain makes. Coming down to the flats in Chile, we were now on the wet side of the mountains and the effect on the land was very obvious. The equivalent flat plains in Argentina on the dry side of the mountains were the semi-arid steppes with the end of summer burnt colors. In Argentina, the livestock needed many acres per animal. Here, the lushness was immediately evident.

Lunch in Moncopulli, Chile

Passing through Chilean customs was tedious, but uneventful. We had been alerted to them being officious and strict. They did not allow any fruit through and we had been warned that fines were stiff. I had bought dried fruit and nuts a few days back and to avoid any issues had picked through and thrown all the fruit away! It was nice to stop in this lush setting for a meal and a stretch break.

Austral Parakeet

I did a double take when I saw these birds outside the window of the restaurant - I thought I must have travelled too far west and had landed in Australia where we have lorikeets that look very much like these birds. Happily, I had not gone too far. These are Austral Parakeets, and I loved watching a flock of them flit around the trees.

Parakeet In Flight

I was pleased to catch this one in flight - it shows the lovely coloring of the tail feathers.

Auto Museum, Moncopulli

We were told we would have a 'surprise' after lunch. Indeed it was a surprise to see this auto museum which has the largest collection of Studebakers outside the United States. 

1925 Studebaker, Series 25EQ, Duplex Phaeton

In addition to the Studebakers, the museum displays many other cars - the total collection has 150 vehicles. 

 BMW Isetta - a Bubble Car

I was intrigued by this unexpected BMW that looked like a Volkswagen. It's a bubble car that was manufactured between 1955 and 1962 - only 161,728 were produced. Apparently the whole front of it opens up - you can see the hinges on the right as you look at the photo. I wonder where the accelerator or brake was located? It's fun to google to see a photo of it with the door open. Let me know if you've ever driven one!

Craft Fair, Puerta Varas, Chile

Our destination in Chile was a town called Puerta Varas. We got there early enough to stop by the craft market. I loved seeing this hand spun and dyed yarn - but it was so bulky, I was able to avoid adding it to my stash!

Next time, I will share with you our adventures in Puerta Varas. There's a volcano here, too... so we'll 'see' how we do with it!

Saturday, April 5th to Monday, April 7th, 2025 - German Heritage of Bariloche

 

Many Beds for Many Bodies

Bariloche's full name is actually San Carlos de Bariloche and its population in 2022 was about 135,000. It  is a playground for vacationers in both summer and winter, so many additional beds are needed to accommodate visitors. 

What is he selling?

 I must pause to make a confession now. I took few photos of the lovely area downtown! As we took our orientation walk I said to myself, this is lovely - I'll be back to take photos later. Sorry, that never happened, so I can only share a slight flavor from the center of the town, with its Alpine characteristics. At least in the photo above, you can see the andesite (volcanic) rock that was used in construction, along with the lovely warm trim of the wooden windows. I was curious to see what this man was selling from his basket.

Churros

It was churros! We are definitely in Latin America. They looked good, but we were headed for the ice cream store - the best in town, according to Marta, who lives here.

Chocolate Heaven

The trip to the ice cream store was riddled with sweet hazards in addition to churros! Here is where the  European influence expressed itself strongly. It seemed there were several huge chocolate stores in every block, along with the wine shops, patisseries, ice cream stores and other food delicacies as well. I decided this is definitely a foodie haven!

Stone Inlay

Prior to colonialization, there were a variety of Indians living in tis area. The Pacific Ocean is only 110 miles to the west and the pass across the Andes is relatively low and easy to navigate. As a result, early population changes started from Chile - first with the indigenous groups and then with white settlement. In the mid 1800's, many Germans were dissatisfied with both their economic prospects and the failure of efforts to establish democracy there in the mid-1800's. The first white settlers came from the Pacific Ocean through Chile. It was easier than travelling overland from the Atlantic Coast. The 'familiar' feeling of the mountains and lakes appealed to Germans and Swiss who came here, and the town developed architecturally to resemble the homeland they had left.

Tomas Gilbert, Brew Master

We dug into German flavors with a lunch and beer tasting at a small artisanal brewery called Gilbert. It was established by Tomas Gilbert and his father in 2004, in an old barn that dated from the 1930's. Tomas appeared to really enjoy his work, but shared that he has developed an allergy to beer, so can't indulge in the golden beverage himself! 

He explained to us how he makes the beers with the three large vats behind him, and just four ingredients. 

Hops

The water (#1) comes from fresh glacial streams in the mountains nearby, the hops (#2) are grown on the property. Add barley (#3) and yeast (#4) and one has the makings of a fine brew. The hops had a divine smell - I've never encountered them outside a beer glass before and was intrigued by their color and odor!

The Stout

The stout was my favorite - it had a lovely robust flavor, but not was not bitter.

 

Haneck Family Barbeque

We had another opportunity to have a taste of life on a ranch about 10 miles from the center of town. It is run by a local family whose ancestor, Don Herman Haneck, arrived from Germany in 1874 with his wife and first child. He worked in the port in Buenos Aries - it would have been La Boca at that time, but not nearly as colorful as the place we saw. Herman was one of the first to work with electricity at the port. Like so many others, Herman left Buenos Aries during one of the the yellow fever outbreaks, seeking a life in a healthier environment. He was awarded acreage here by the government and set up a ranch where sheep and cattle were raised until the 1970's.

(L) Pablo (Our Bus Driver) and (R) Herman 'Chango' Haneck

Now the ranch is run by his great grandson, Herman, nicknamed 'Chango'. He works with his wife Monica, their son, Pancho and grand-daughter, Morena. The ranch is now used for horseback riding and 'Day In the Life....' experiences for groups like ours. Our bus driver, Pablo pitched in to help lead the horseback riding. I fell in love with the gaucho hats they wore. They could be worn like a French beret, but were most often shaped by their wearers to provide shade over the face - somewhat like a baseball cap. I bought one, but it seems to just look stupid on me. I guess I'm just not a gaucho!

You can see more photos and read more about the Haneck family at http://www.cabalgatashaneck.com.ar/index-english.html#abautus. (The website must have been created some time ago, as grand-daughter Morena is now in her late teens!)

Mate Gourds for Us

While the family heritage is German, our experiences were definitely from Argentine culture.

We were greeted with our first taste of  mate (pronounced martay, but no 'r' sound), a ubiquitous drink which is made by soaking the leaves of yerba mate, a form of holly, in hot water. We saw many people with their mate cups and straws during this trip - almost as if they were smoking pipes! Rather than the 'one cup' type of tea preparation I'm accustomed to, water is added to the tea leaves throughout the day and sipped until there is no more flavor. It is generally served in a calabash gourd, which has been cleaned out and dried. The metal straw has a filter in it, so the tea leaves don't get into your mouth as you sip. I thought it a pleasant flavor, not unlike my Chinese pu'er tea, but the constant re-filling and sipping would take me some practice to enjoy. I did get myself a gourd and straw, so now I just have to get the mate leaves!

A Dusty Ride

Horseback riding would also have been a new skill that the original Herman probably had to learn here to manage the ranch. We had the opportunity to ride their horses after our mate.  There was a wonderful platform to help people like me get on and off their steeds with dignity. I was surprised to discover that the horse I was riding actually understood my directions! It was very pleasing.

Being a volcanic area, layers of ash have built up over time and the lack of moisture makes it difficult for soils to form. As a result we encountered dust during our ride. Many of us wore masks, or face coverings to filter it. 

It Felt a lot Like Texas!

We had a beautiful day, the landscape was expansive and highlighted the soft yellows greens of this semi-arid land. The horses behaved and I even felt emboldened to fiddle with my phone to get these photos. Normally I'd be hanging on for dear life!

BBQ

The highlight for me at the Haneck's was the barbeque - not so much because I liked the meat (although it was good), but I really appreciated seeing how it is prepared. Before the trip I had read 'In Patagonia' by Bruce Chatwin where he often referred to this method of barbeque. In our world, we place the meat directly over the fire. The dripping fats tend to flare up the flames and it is easy for the meat to get charred and burned. Here, the grill is placed diagonally over the fire, so it still gets that lovely barbeque flavor, but there was no charring. I thought it brilliant, but it did seem to demand its own shelter so that the coals would not be thrown around by the winds.

Again, this was an experience that was deeply rooted in Argentine, rather than German heritage.

Cottage on the Haneck Ranch

The 'season' for the Haneck's is summer. While tourists come here in the winter, it is the snow that attracts them, rather than riding horses in the cold. This is the time the family turns their energies into building new spaces, slowly expanding the offerings for visitors. This lovely cottage with its almost hobbit-like entrance was very appealing and one could see, why people came here from afar.

Incognito - Protection from Dust

Being so far from North America and Europe has been an attractor for people who wanted a better life, but also for those who wish to avoid the long arm of the law. Among the most famed were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, who spent time a little over one hundred miles south of Bariloche, where they had a ranch. Their money management must not have been very good, as they ended up raiding an Argentine bank which enticed them to move yet again!

Nazi Presence in Argentina

North American outlaws were not the only ones who came to escape facing consequences for crimes they had committed. We were privileged to meet Nora Schulz, sister to the author of the book pictured above. She was born in the 1960's to Argentinian, German speaking parents in Bariloche. Hans was her older brother and as a history teacher and anthropologist he became very interested in the Nazi presence here - not only in Argentina, but also in Bariloche. During WWII, Argentina was neutral and supported the immigration of Jews from Germany. She described a time between the wars when Argentinian youth were invited to join the Hitler Youth and offered trips to Germany which came with a contract to fight to support Germany if needed. 

Our Lady of Nahuel Huapi Cathedral

  Following WWII, Peron was the Minister for War. He had seen that the USA had accepted the brains of Wernher von Braun to help develop space technology. Peron was also interested in  bringing the intellectual abilities and skills of Nazi, however, unlike the US who gave the freedom for real names to be used, Peron hid them with fake passports and protected them by ensuring that immigration officials did not look into it further. 

Hans Schulz's extensive investigation reveals that 300 war criminals came and 5,000 collaborators. They had power, money and connections and many came through 'ratlines' - informal escape routes. The book also presents evidence that Nazi sympathizers in the Catholic Church and Red Cross were helpful in helping them obtain papers to facilitate their escape.

Volcanic Ash Slopes

I'm reaching for a photograph to match he narrative here, but thought I'd settle on this photo of a hillside not far from the Haneck Ranch which showed clearly, slopes that had been covered with volcanic ash at one time. To me, the ash represents the possibility that eventually chaos and hot messes can become settled.

 The people in Bariloche found themselves in the middle of a hot mess in 1994 when after nearly 50 years in Argentina, a man whom many respected, was revealed to be the war criminal Erich Priebke. At the time he was 'discovered' and confronted by ABC reporter Sam Donaldson, he was owner of a deli that made very good sausages and was head of the school board. There was a 1973 movie made about his crime in Italy - 'Massacre in Rome', starring Richard Burton.  Priebke co-ordinated the deaths of 330 male civilians in Italy. He was extradited to Italy in 1996 where he was charged with a crime against humanity, found guilty and placed on house arrest at the age of 85. At the trial, he said that his actions had been morally OK because the orders had come from Hitler and the people killed had been 'terrorists', even though they included two 14 year-olds and a priest. He lived in northern Italy on house arrest for the remainder of his life until his death at the age of 100.

Our speaker, Nora Schulz said that even after Priebke had been discovered, the Italian community here supported him. She said that while there are still holocaust deniers in the community, there is no active, organized Nazism here now.

 

Our Lady of Nahuel Huapi Cathedral - Stations of the Cross

I decided to end this blog with one of the Stations of the Cross that I saw in the sweeping space of the cathedral here. The church was designed in 1946, about the same time Priebke arrived here. The stations are beautiful bas-reliefs by Argentine artist, Adolfo Perez Esquivel, who is also a human rights activist. According to Google's AI, 'his Stations of the Cross paintings explore themes of colonialism, poverty and other forms of suffering'. He was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize in 1980 for his commitment to the non-violent defense of democracy and human rights during the military dictatorship in power at the time.

I thought his creations were very beautiful and the historical representations made sense to me. Our next blog will take off from the theme represented in the photo above. We will take a peek at some of the history of indigenous people here, before we move on across the Andes to Chile.