Wednesday, September 24th and Thursday, September 25th, 202 - Walking on the Wild Side - King's Canyon and Karrke Cultural Experience

Gosses Bluff Crater (Way in the Distance to the Right)

After we left Ormiston Gorge, we were headed to Kings Canyon, and there was little sign of  any 'civilization' along the dirt road during the last three hours. Although we stopped at this overlook to see the crater called Gosses Bluff, there were no bathrooms. In order to take a 'bathroom break', we sent the men off to the back of the bus and the women took turns using the one toilet on the bus! (Thank goodness there was one!)

It's believed that this crater was formed by a comet hitting the earth 142 million years ago. With sides that are 600 feet high and a circumference of three miles, it is one of the largest impact craters in the world. Much of it has eroded away over time, but it is believed that the original bed lies 1.24 miles below the surface today. Impressive!

George Gill Range (Watarrka) at Sunset

Once we arrived at the Kings Canyon Resort, the mountains we saw to the east were still part of the McDonnell Ranges even though we were 200 miles west of Alice Springs. Kings Canyon, where we plan to walk the next day is in this mountain range.

 The first European to set eyes on this view in 1872, was a man by the name of Ernest Giles. In order to launch his expedition, Giles needed money, and one of his benefactors was his brother-in-law, George Gill. The mountains already had a name - Watarrka - but either Ernest either did not know that, or did not care. (His journal reports that encounters with the indigenous people did not lead to contact, so he probably did not know their name for it.) Because he was the first to journal its existence, he had the naming rights, so he named it George Gill Range.

He describes it in his journal as follows ".....its southern face was open, grassy, and beautifully green; it was by far the most agreeable and pleasant country we had met."

The Rim of Kings Canyon - Only 800 Vertical Feet to Go

Ernest Giles had quite an adventure getting here in 1872, a story which our guides Glen and Colin shared with us in great detail. The telegraph line to Alice Springs was nearly finished, so the goal was to find a potential route to Western Australia. Due to a number of sponsors, Giles was well supplied with camels, and horses and one of the sponsors wanted to come along on the expedition - Samuel Carmichael. Our guides reported that Carmichael had been a rather large man, whom Giles initially refused because he thought him unfit for the journey. When Carmichael offered financial assistance, Giles relented and the dramatized version we heard on the bus described Sam's heft as having enabled him to rescue Giles in the middle of boggy salt lakes toward the end of their journey. (There is little information about Carmichael on the internet, so I couldn't confirm that he was as large as our guides suggested, or that he rescued Giles.) The highest peak in the George Gill Range was named Carmichael Crag in his honor. Kings Creek, where we were headed, was named after a childhood friend of Ernest Giles - Fielder King - so it has no royal implications. Giles found and named many features of the landscape here in Central Australia, during this 1872 expedition, but their goal of getting to Western Australia was folied when they ran into a large salt lake which he called Lake Amadeus (after King Amadeo of Spain). They were struggling to find water and getting bogged in the salt pans, and Samuel Carmichael said he was done. They returned to Adelaide without having found the desired route.

If you enjoy historical documents, the journal is online at https://gutenberg.net.au/ebooks/e00052.html#ch1.6. It is well written and quite a gripping read.

The Path Ahead - 500 steps Start of Kings Canyon Rim Walk

This was the climb I had been hoping I could do when we'd done the 'trial run' at Ormiston Gorge earlier. I knew it was an ambitious route for me, and I hoped my fate did not match that of Ernest Giles in 1872. The walk we were doing is called the Kings Canyon Rim Walk and although it's only four miles, they are tough miles for someone like me with knee issues. There were an initial 500 steps to reach the rim which was 600 vertical feet above me. Beyond that there were further ups and downs along the track as well. There was also no option for me to turn back alone, as the party needed to stay together after the first 250 steps - the point of no return!

As you see, it is a popular walk, there were many school groups and other large groups setting out in the early morning light. For the most part, the congestion eased once we got to the top. 

Emergency Call Device

Yes, I did choose to commit to the walk, and made it to the rim without issue. It was reassuring to see there was a 'telephone' up here to call for help! The most common problem people encounter is the heat, especially in the summer, and it is crucial for people to bring plenty of water. We were carrying 1.5 gallons, even though it was only September (spring here). There are also 600 foot cliffs and edges that can be unstable - people have died from both dangers here.

Vast Nothingness Behind Us

Maybe a flat-earther would appreciate this view, as beyond the mountain range, it was very flat and looked very empty. It is unimaginable that the Aboriginal people have figured out how to live here and have done so very successfully for 35,000 years. Our guide, Glen, was an Aboriginal man who grew on Tiwi Island, just north of Darwin. He reminded us that the indigenous people did not just survive, they thrived, with the knowledge they learned and passed down from generation to generation.

Peculiar Rock Formations - Domes (Or Kuninga Men)

It soon became apparent that this was a pretty interesting place, as the top was filled with many, many sandstone domes. The Aboriginal people called them Kuninga Men, which refers to young quolls - a carnivorous marsupial about the size of a cat. There was a sign, with a quote from a traditional caretaker of Watarrka, saying 'All that's native cats sitting there. They're still there. That one is really important. That dreaming is still there.' The area is now commonly referred to as the 'Lost City' and it did feel like a different world. I liked the image of it being formed by a lot of cats bottoms sitting around on top!

Another World

The geological explanation is that the rocks were originally cube-shaped blocks, with large cracks running at right angles to each other. The edges of the cracks over the years have worn down, leaving these unusual dome shapes. Similar domes are also found in Kata Tjuta (where we go after this), and the Bungle Bungles in Western Australia.

The Sheer Face of the Canyon - From the North Rim

The canyon itself was fairly narrow, as you can see here. The edge of the canyon is where the brightly lit section or rock ends - the trees, scree and vertical cliffs are on the other side. In the valley between the two rims, runs Kings Creek, 600 feet below.  Although we saw other groups lining up close to the edge for photographs, we exercised caution and kept our distance. The sheer face you see on the other side was where a chunk of rocks fell just a few years ago. Our route took us to the left and made a U-turn so that the end of the walk took us along the rim that you see on the other side, before our return to the valley floor.

Steps to The Garden of Eden

Almost mid-way, we came upon a series of steps. Without them this would have been quite a treacherous part of the walk. They led down into a gully called The Garden of Eden.

Looking Upstream Near the Garden of Eden

This was a complete change of scenery - a permanent water hole, cool and secluded.

Garden of Eden Waterhole

The waterhole itself had high U-shaped walls. The water was stored within a non-porous mudstone layer of the rock and is an important men's site for Aboriginal people. You can see what a haven it must have been for them in the past, away from the open, dry conditions out on the plains. We spent time here in silence, only interrupted by the call of birds as we contemplated the quiet beauty . We are fortunate that as rim walkers here, we had permission to access this special place.

A Dome in the Making

After we tore ourselves away from the cool and quiet of the waterhole, we came across this odd rock formation. When that little cap on top is made of a harder mudstone layer. When it falls away, you can see how the dome shape will be more complete. As we walked, we also saw ripples on the rock surface from the water that formed it, jellyfish and shellfish fossils. These sedimentary layers had not been folded, as they were still horizontal.

Looking Back to the North Rim

I could not take my eyes off this strange landscape, but all good things must come to an end. It was satisfying to look back to the other side where we had started a few hours back. Our progress as a group had been somewhat slow, compared to average times, but we could now see that the descent was ahead, and that we would probably 'make it' to the end.

Back to the Plains Below

We made it, tired but intact! 

My Best Effort at Interstellar Photography! The Milky Way

That night we were treated to canapes and bubbly overlooking the mountain range, until at sunset we saw a light and music installation by an English artist, Bruce Munro,  called 'Light Towers'. I do have some photos of it, but I have to confess, I don't think I really got into the spirit of whatever it was attempting to convey, and do not think any of my images are worth sharing. In the event you're really curious about it, here's a link to the promo. https://www.discoveryholidayparks.com.au/resorts/kings-canyon/activities-and-attractions/light-towers

Instead, I was more keen to get away from light, as I had been hauling my tripod with me all this time in hope of getting images of the Milky Way. The moon was gone and this was the opportune time. Without a vehicle I could not get away from the lights of the resort, so I hid behind the bus, which shielded some of the resort lights, and started my effort. I'd practiced my settings, had my little red-light head lamp, even caried gaffer tape!  I ended up with something - but I know I have a lot more to learn when it comes to photographing stars! Nevertheless, seeing the Milky Way was beautiful - so many mysteries out there!

Peter and Natasha Abbott, from Karrke Cultural Experience

On Thursday, we left the Kings Canyon Resort and made our way toward Yalara, the area that has been developed for visitors to access both Uluru and Kata Tjuta (More on them later). On the way, we stopped at this small venue, the Karrke Cultural Experience, where brother and sister (Peter and Natasha Abbott) oriented us to many aspects of Southern Aranda life.

Our guide, Glen, had told us that there are different rules in different areas regarding permissions for contact between brothers and sisters. When you consider that there were more than 250 Aboriginal languages spoken here and over 700 different dialects over this vast land, it comes as no surprise that there are many different customs, or lore. 

Glen had shared that at some point in his childhood, he had been told he was no longer allowed to hang out with his sister, because of the traditional lore that guides behavior where he lived on Tiwi Island. These were rules that were set in place where there were small populations, to prevent genetic intermingling that would compromise the health of the community. Glen said, if you break that lore, you're literally banished, or have spears thrown at you. That lore still exists and is practiced to this day in many communities. No doubt that would be terribly sad, but Glen told us that he was still able communicate with her using non-verbal signals and now, via her partner. He also shared that back in the day there were no rules about Instagram, Snapchat, Facebook etc, so they are able to stay in touch with each other that way, as well. 

The Southern Aranda people did not follow that lore, so Peter and Natasha were able to stand together and be our guides through a hour of much learning.

Peter Shows the Different Types of Ochre and Oxides

(Don't be distracted by Peter's fly net, over his face. These were a Godsend that helped us keep our sanity against the constant onslaught of bush flies!)

There were a number of different displays set up, each with a different focus - food, artifacts, art, ceremony etc. We were greeted with a 'Welcome to Country' and a call out to the ancestors so that they knew we were visiting and would not be threatened by the presence of strangers. We also were encouraged to step into he smoke of the leaves and bushes from the harlequin fushcia, which has spiritual healing properties, enabling the creation spirit ancestors to welcome us.

Natasha Taps a Witchetty Grub From an Acacia Root

My favorite part of the demonstration was learning about the witchetty grub (maku), which Natasha tapped out from the root of an acacia or eucalyptus. Even as a child, I always thought they looked delicious when I saw them in photos, but they never appeared in my world to touch or eat. Natasha said they can be eaten raw or cooked from May to August. They have good protein, fats and oils and taste like the tree they're found under -  like butter, or popcorn – lovely.

Witchetty Grub

Witchetty grubs are found in swollen roots which form around the them. They have to be tapped out. They are soft, but the head is not eaten. We were able to touch this one - it was very soft and squishy - almost like putting your finger into jello. Unfortunately there were none on the menu that day, so eating one remains on my bucket list!

Many Seeds, Fruits and Berries

We learned a great deal in our hour here. Regarding food I was struck by the great variety of seeds, fruits and berries that were available, and also by the very small size. None were like the huge delicacies we get in our supermarkets that are largely the result of generations of selection by farmers. Traditionally gathering and preparing these foods is done by women and girls, either picking or using their digging sicks. They take a long time to harvest and a great deal of knowledge. One must avoid poisonous varieties, and be sure that one is picking them at the right time. Knowing how to eat them is another skill to be learned - some are only used for the juice, some need to be ground up and fixed into cakes and some cooked on the fire like popcorn.

Beads for Tourists

In addition to collecting seeds for food, some were set aside for creating jewelry, which is sold to tourists like myself. In the summer, while women and girls sit in the shade of a tree, the seeds are dried and painted with acrylic paints. In the winter, they sit by the fire and score them with red-hot fencing wire to brand the patterns on them. This is not mass production - it is very time consuming. The art and artifacts are not priced like mass produced goods, and the value of their time was visible in the price. 

(I took notes on all of this, including the names of plants - I can't imagine it would be useful to anyone, but message me if you want me to send you a copy of the notes)

From the Bus

As we  travelled, I took many photos of the changing colors of the landscape from the bus. Yet the red earth was a constant the entire time. This is due to iron-rich minerals in the soil oxidizing or 'rusting' in the hot, dry climate over millions of years.

Kata Tjuta - the Olgas

As the sun set, we were able to see tomorrow's destination off in the distance - Kata Tjuta, which used to be known as The Olgas. Dust had been kicked up by buses arriving at the lookout we were sitting at. I liked the effect as the reddening  sun filtered through the swirling dust.

I hope you join us for our next adventures through Kata Tjuta and Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the next blog.

Sunday, September 21st through Tuesday, September 23rd, 2025 - Alice Springs and the West McDonnell Ranges

Post and Telegraph Office, Alice Springs

 The telegraph station in Alice Springs, became the first European settlement in Central Australia. Charles Todd was a modest man and did not want the station named after him so it was named after his wife, Alice, instead. Todd's successes earned him much recognition, including a knighthood, so he became Sir Charles Todd.

The Todd River, Alice Springs

Although Sir Charles did not have the town named after him, he did get a river! As you see, above, there is not much water in the Todd River. However, dig down a little and you will find water. It was a significant camping and ceremonial site for the Arrernte people who live here. When the early surveyors found that water can be reliably found beneath the surface, they believes its source must be a spring - Hence the name Alice Springs. Later, it was discovered it is standing water, not flowing from a spring, hence naming this place 'Springs' was a misnomer.

Each year a 'regatta' is held here - a 'boat' race called Henley-on-Todd. It is the world's only dry-river boating event in which Fred Flintstone might have had a chance! People race with inventions of all kinds and a great time is had by all. Ironically it had to be cancelled in 1993 because there was water in the river! Here's a link to a video if you want to see the type of antics that take place during this unique annual festival.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gyh3-hq-GdA.

Blue Haze Over James Range, Watercolor by Albert Namatjira

Soon after Fran and I left the train and joined the Outback Spirit tour group, we visited the Araluen Cultural Precinct, which had a significant collection of Aboriginal art. I was delighted to see this painting by Albert Namatjira, whose art depicting scenes from Central Australia, were popular during my childhood. In fact, I vaguely remember having a print of one of his images in our home. Namatjira was a consequential aboriginal artist who had been born and raised on a Lutheran mission - Hermannsburg - about 80 miles west of Alice Springs. In 1936, when Namatjira was in his 30's, he met and guided a painter who was visiting the area, Rex Batterbee. When he learned that Batterbee was able to make money selling his work, Namatjira asked him for lessons. Namatjira was a quick learner and two years later had an exhibition in Melbourne. His work became very popular, as his style met the aesthetics of European landscapes. It was also the first time that many Australians (myself included) saw images from the remote areas of Central Australia.

Namatjira was so successful that he became wealthy, but due to restrictions on Aboriginal people at that time, who were legally wards of the state, he was not allowed to own land to invest his money, so he applied for citizenship. You hate to think that the state granted him that status in order to collect taxes from him - but there's always that possibility, as in 1957 he and his wife became Australia's first (and only) Aboriginal citizens which allowed him to vote, own land, buy alcohol and be taxed.  There were further tragedies in his life, but his legacy was profound both for Australian art, and also for Aboriginal recognition and rights. It was not until 1967 that a referendum granted full citizenship rights to all Aboriginal people.

Rutjipmar (Mt. Sonder), by Kathy Inkamala

Namatjira's work gave rise to the Hermannsburg School of Painting, samples of which which were also on display in this gallery. This painting, above, was created in 2019, by Kathy Inkamala, whose grandmother was one of Albert's sisters.  As you see, the elements of this style of artistry include the depiction of the outback colors, and soft shapes of the McDonnell Ranges with flora (often trees), featured in the foreground.

View From ANZAC Hill

And here's the 'real deal' view from ANZAC Hill in Alice Springs. The West McDonnell Range is in the background, mottled colors of the vegetation and gum trees in the foreground. We saw many scenes like this during the next week.

Splash of Color From the Bus!

I chose to travel in spring, in the hope that I would see flowers, and I was not disappointed.

Yellow Billybuttons

Much of the yellow color comes from this ground cover called yellow billybuttons. They are common in dry conditions and are related to the daisy. They were plentiful at a venue we visited near Alice Springs - the Desert Park.

Narrow Leaf Fuschia Bush

There were many other wildflowers around - yellow, white, purple.... I was particularly enchanted by the delicacy of this small bloom which grow on bushes up to nine feet tall. It's a narrow leaf fuschia bush which is not a true fuschia, but is an Australian native plant that grows in arid conditions.

In the Desert Park, we saw kangaroos and dingoes, and looked for emus without success. They had an excellent nocturnal house where we were able to see many insects and reptiles which are only active at night.

Black Breasted Buzzard

The highlight of our visit here was a bird 'talk', where they showcased some birds, including this raptor, the Black Breasted Buzzard. It flew in as if it had just dropped in from the McDonnell  ranges - very dramatic!

How to Crack an Emu Egg

The Black Breasted Buzzard has learned an impressive skill. His species has figured out how to open emu eggs, using stones to crack their tough shells. As you see from the imitation plastic replica egg in the photo, they are quite large and provide a great amount of protein, so the bird's effort pays off handsomely. This buzzard did not get the customary egg contents, but there was a nice little lizard hidden in the plastic to reward him, after his rock had broken it apart.

Barn Owl

We also met a most adorable barn owl with this soft, heart shaped face. Somehow this shape improves it's ability to locate its prey in complete darkness. We were able to hear how it flies without making a single sound. It was most impressive.

Windmill at Outback BBQ Experience

Before we left Alice Springs, we were taken to an old cattle station east of the town, where we had a marvelous barbeque and damper meal.

A Truck Load of Plastic Galahs at Outback BBQ Experience

It was located in an old quarry, which caught the colors of the setting sun beautifully. The decor of old cars, tractors, and other farm 'junk' was whimsical, humorous and really felt like 'the outback'!

End of Day in the East McDonnell Range

As the sun set, we were treated to an outside 'lesson' by a comedic 'jackaroo' (cowboy) on the preparation of damper, a traditional staple of flour and water prepared over an open fire in a dutch oven. There was much estimating of ingredients, hands plunging into ingredients, flour flung here there and everywhere and a commentary that had us all regaled with laughter. Our meal was eaten, as their website states, 'underneath a chandelier of stars' and we were treated after the meal to 'an authentic bush balladeer singing timeless Australian songs', some of which I knew.

My Lagerphone Debut in Alice Springs (Photo by Glennon Babui)

 

Now, as you know, I am usually a shy and retiring person who does not seek the limelight, but something arose within when the bush balladeer mentioned that he was seeking volunteers to assist him with a few 'traditional' instruments. Somehow, I immediately knew that one of them was going to be a lagerphone and I immediately knew I wanted to be that volunteer! This is a very simple percussion instrument made from old beer bottle caps, and I was very familiar with it, as I had a great uncle, Bob McNab, who used to play it for us when we visited him and his wife Muriel, for afternoon tea in Sydney. My hand went up! There I was making a fool of myself in front of a crowd... and how I took to that lagerphone! It must have been in my blood, and thanks to Fran, we have evidence. This was my moment to shine when he invited me to do a solo!

No Bribery Allowed on This One! LOL! (Video by Frances Peters)

The following day, once I had managed to wipe the grin off my face, we headed out of town following the West MacDonnell Range.

Simpson's Gap

The 400 mile long McDonnell Ranges flank Alice Springs - one to the east, the other to the west. We were headed west, so that was the range that we followed. One feature of these ranges of relatively low mountains (rising 1,200 to 1,500 feet above the surrounding plains) is the many 'gaps' that are found, such as Simpson's Gap which you see above. I'd love to fully understand how such lovely places were formed geologically, but it seems very complicated when I google it! In essence, over very long periods of time, after a sandstone bedrock had been lain down under a large inland sea, the horizontal layers were folded and due to compression turned into quartz. During this compression and stretching of the crust cracks were formed as it was moved around by tectonic forces, Some magma, called dolerite, pushed its way into these fissures in the rocks. About 300 million years ago, these mountains were pushed up almost as high as the Himalayas - but now they have eroded down to current heights, exposing the cracks at the base. The dolerite erodes more rapidly than the quartz leading to these lovely breaks in the continuity of the mountains.

Red and Green at Simpson's Gap

Looking at the rocks, you can see where the red colors of the 'Red Centre' have come from! The soft greens give a beautiful contrast. These were the colors we would be surrounded by for the next week!

Standley Chasm

Of all these 'gaps', my favorite was Standley Chasm. Not only was it very dramatic and narrow, but the reason it wins in my affection stakes is the story of the person behind its name - Ida Standley. Ida was the daughter of an Adelaide butcher, and went to work as a 17 year-old governess to the Standley family at Mount Widunna Station. In 1887, at the age of 18, she married 35 year old George Standley. It was a harsh existence, as he was often gone, but she was hardy and raised four children while also working as a teacher. By 1903, her children were grown and the marriage failing, so she responded to an advertisement seeking a teacher in the newly formed Stuart Town (Alice Springs before the telegraph). Always prim and proper, fully dressed wrist to ankle, Ida took the fourteen day journey by buggy, to become the first teacher in Alice Springs. 

But that was not enough for Ida. Although she was really only required to teach white children, she insisted on educating the Aboriginal children - the white children in the morning, the aboriginal children in the afternoon. When the 'assimilation' policy was adopted, the mixed race 'stolen' children were housed near the Todd River in a corrugated iron tin shack with dirt floors. The conditions in the 'Bungalow' were terrible, with extremes of temperatures, and poor sanitation. With the help of another woman, Ida cared for and provided European education to up to 60 children at one time, many of whom called her 'Mum'. 

By 1928, the townsfolk decided they didn't want this 'institution' within sight, so moved it out of town, about 30 miles west. Not to be deterred, Ida joined them, delaying her retirement to live in a tent nearby, She stayed through the summer, but by 1928 her health had declined, and she moved back to Adelaide. Upon her death in 1948, the 'Beloved Lady' was widely mourned. She had been the only government teacher in Central Australia for 15 years. Her work had already been recognized in 1929, when the chasm was re-named from Gall, to Standley Chasm. 

Ellery Creek Big Hole

All of these 'gaps' shared similar elements, but each had them arranged in different proportions. Ellery Creek Big Hole was one of the few bodies of water in the area where a 'crocodile watch' was not needed, but instead, there were warnings about the temperature of the water, as it is extremely cold, deep and dark! In spite of the heat of the air, even n summer, people have developed hypothermia from prolonged exposure and there have been multiple drownings here. In spite of an emergency phone having been installed, rescue teams would take a while to arrive, as it is 50 miles from Alice Springs.

Willy Wagtail

The birds did not mind the cold water - there were ducks and peewees (magpie-larks) in the water and walking on the weeds, but my eye was drawn to this little willy wagtail which was flitting around. They are small, generally less than eight inches, but move rapidly as they feed. 

Tail Wagging!

As they move, they wag their tail back and forth - hence the name, Willy Wagtail. They are common throughout Australia, and they loved to help my father with his gardening, along with a couple of  peewees who appreciated the occasional worm that might be  revealed as he dug.

Ormiston Gorge - Ghost Gum Haven

Ormiston Gorge was the most westerly gap we visited - and the largest of the ones we saw. I was keen to see it, as I had heard that there has been an annual festival of acapella music performed under the rock overhang, with the audience sitting on the sandy beach opposite. When I Googled the event, I was saddened to learn that 2025 was the last year for this Desert Song Festival. You can see the set-up for it in the link below.

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhtU5efMzBA

Only 250 Steps to the Top of Ormiston Gorge

Singing was not on my agenda on this day - it was the 250 steps (and 750 foot climb) to the lookout at the top of the gorge that was to be my challenge. This was the 'test' for us to assess whether it would be sensible for us to attempt a more challenging walk later in the week. 

Yay! I Made it to the Top - 750 Foot Climb

Happily, with the help of my anti-inflammatories and walking poles, I made it to the top to the lookout. The view above is looking to the north along the Ormiston Creek through the mountains ...........

Nothingness to the South

......... but turn around, and this is the view to the south! Central Australia is a desert and the horizon seems to stretch on endlessly - 750 miles to the ocean. Our next destination is 150 miles to the south-west - King's Canyon. That will be the next destination.

See you there!

 

Friday, September 19th and Saturday, September 20th, 2025 - A Glimpse of Darwin, The Ghan, and Katherine Gorge

 

The Ghan - Train from Darwin to Adelaide

When planning our trip, I recalled a journey I had taken back in the 1970's, from Perth to Sydney on the train they call the Indian-Pacific. It took three days of constant travel and was a regular train route to get people from A to B. Now these long train routes in Australia have been 'touristified', offering a higher level of service with side trips, good food and unlimited drinks. Although that's not normally my style, we thought it would be a way to truly experience the vast nothingness of Central Australia, so we signed up for 'The Ghan'.

The train journey was three nights and three full days, including a side trip to Katherine Gorge and Coober Pedy. However, we chose to break it up with a week of travel around the Red Centre, with another travel company, Outback Spirit. In this blog, I'll share a few highlights from our trip from Darwin to Alice Springs before we began our road segment of travel.

Burnett House at Myilly Point

Darwin is the capital of the Northern Territory, with a population of 139,902 in the 2021 census. We had just an afternoon here, so we truly only had a very brief glimpse. Knowing that 80% of the city had been destroyed in Cyclone Tracy, in December 1974, I thought it would be worth seeking out one of the few homes that survived that destruction. A small collection of houses had been taken under the care of the National Heritage Trust, so we stopped for a peek. They were not open, but this gives you an idea of the sort of 'Queenslander' style that would have been here previously. While it is not the oldest house here, Burnett House was built in 1938 and is the only surviving pre-WW2 "K" style house. These are two-storey buildings, engineered to stay cool and provide maximum ventilation to adapt to Darwin's hot, humid, tropical climate.

Newer Apartments

This apartment building is not far from the historic houses - although they have nice balconies, they probably rely on air conditioning for comfort.

Near the CBD, Darwin

Darwin is a small city, and although the center has some high-rise buildings near the CBD (Central Business District), construction height is generally lower than in other major cities in Australia.

Northern Territory Museum and Art Gallery

Having spent time looking at ancient, traditional, Aboriginal art, we decided to visit the Museum and Art Gallery, which was showing an exhibition of  the Telstra National Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Art Awards.

'Wandjina, We Still Holding Onto Them 2024', by Barbara Bear Aundie and Mildred Mungulu

I liked this collection of hand-built stonewear figures, fired with with oxides. The artists chose clay to form these images of creation beings from their tribe. The sign nearby said that 'on canvas, you can see the beings, but with clay, you can hold them'. I liked that the artists used a different medium to accomplish similar messaging as we had been seeing on cave walls in Kakadu and Arnhem Land.

Yinkiti Jilamara/Food Design 2025, by Graham Tipungwuti

This artist, from the Tiwi Islands (north of Darwin) chose to use natural ochres on stringybark. It would seem that the color range offered by ochre would be limiting, but I think he has done a great job with it. This entry was given a Telstra bark painting award. Graham Tipungwuti's work was influenced by Andy Warhol and represents the processed foods that have been introduced to the Tiwi Islands as a result of colonization. Perhaps one could look at it and say, as was the case with much of the rock art, that it is telling people what type of 'food is available here'. In fact the messaging is greater than that, as the write-up said 'By centreing (sic) a can of great Northern Beer, Graham addresses the complexities of alcohol regulations on Tiwi'. 

Regulations around alcohol throughout the Northern Territory are complex. When we were in Kakadu, the local supermarket did not sell alcohol at all. We could only buy alcohol within an establishment such as a hotel where we were eating, or were guests. One of the rules they have is a Banned Drinker Register, (BDR), which requires establishments selling alcohol to check the buyer's government issued ID against a list of persons who have been banned from purchasing, possessing or drinking alcohol. Research suggests this has reduced the number of emergency room visits attributed to alcohol consumption, and has reduced alcohol-related assaults by 26% and domestic violence by 21% (although Google AI, says this might not be entirely due to the BDR). Clearly, the law has been a response to alcohol related problems, which are more prevalent among indigenous populations. It is also not the only strategy the government is employing in efforts to reduce harm from alcohol abuse and addiction.

Our Country 2024, 

This dramatic piece of synthetic polymer paint on linen, was given a Telstra General Painting Award. It was created by five sisters, their niece and one of their daughters, to tell the story of the Seven Sisters, which is about family protecting and teaching each other. It tells of women being chased by a bad man, but being protected by their elder sisters. Although I could not follow the details of the story in this piece, I felt it had a great deal of power.

Mostly Men at Shenannigans

Perhaps it's unfair of me to follow the story of the seven sisters with this photo, but Fran and I did notice that there were many more men than women at this establishment near the restaurant we ate at on Mitchell Street, near downtown. Perhaps there was a game on, or it was a special event, as Google AI says there are only 5% more men than women here. 

Art, Outside the Gallery

If you have followed me before, you know I love 'street art'. I loved the comedic nature of this piece that was in the CBD. The dog on the left is baying 'blow a kiss, sing a tune, hold my hand, love the moon x'. On top of the rock on the right, the dingo replies 'I'm a dingo, not a dog'. This evokes a drama that occurred in Australia in 1980, when a family, who were visiting Uluru (Ayers Rock in those days) had their 8 week old baby stolen from their tent by a dingo. It led to many enormous court cases, as no one could believe that a dingo could be blamed for such a heinous crime. The mother, Lindy Chamberlain was found guilty of murder and imprisoned for three years, until the baby's matinee jacket was found after a tourist had fallen near the site in 1986. It was a terrible miscarriage of justice which is well portrayed in the movie 'Cry in the Dark', starring Meryl Streep and Sam Neill. 

View From the Train Window

Once we were on the train on Saturday morning, there was plenty of time to try photography at 50 miles an hour! It was a fun venture, but not entirely successful! The general speed of travel seemed very sedate. Google says the train can travel up to 71 miles an hour, but mostly it just seemed to chug along at this moderate speed. I wondered why the journey took so long, but apparently the track is old and the fact that it is shared with freight trains led to occasional sidelining, Another passenger suggested that hitting a camel or kangaroo could be a problem too, if the train ran at a faster speed. Apparently there was a significant disruption in 2009 when it hit a large bull! The 1,851 mile journey takes 54 hours, and includes a number of excursions.

Magnetic Termite Mounds

Fran and I had seen large termite mounds from the road when we were going to and from Kakadu, but we didn't stop the car to take photographs, much to our regret, as they were amazing structures. It is much less satisfying to snap a picture from a train, but this collection, above, gives you the idea of their size. In fact they are somewhat frightening to contemplate - they can stand up to 13 feet tall. The reference to magnetism in their name is not because the ants are magnetic, but because the mounds are oriented along a north-south axis. This allows them to get the sun's warmth on their eastern and western sides at the beginning and end of the day, but less surface is exposed at midday to reduce the risk of overheating. The outside is hard and durable, while inside they are soft and papery.

Each mound can house up to a million termites, with a queen, king, reproductives, soldiers and workers. Unlike the termites we fear in Florida, they do not eat wood, but eat grass and other vegetation instead.

Headed for Nitmiluk (Katherine) Gorge

The train stopped in Katherine and it's passengers were taken in buses to a variety of excursions. I chose to go to Nitmiluk or Katherine Gorge, which is on the Katherine River, within Nitmiluk National Park. The river meanders through 13 gorges, which are said to be gorgeous! The trip I had signed up for, was focused on rock art. The trip description had mentioned a 2 km walk to get to the site, so I was all keen to trot. 

Boats Moored with Chains

As we approached the end of the fist gorge, we saw chains hanging on the side of the river. They were for boats like this one to be moored for use in the wet season when water levels became much higher than they were today.

Traps for 'Salties'

We also saw a few traps along the banks. These are for saltwater crocodiles, or 'salties', which can get into this fresh water during the wet season in spite of being 125 miles inland. They come in when the water levels are high and are treated as pests, as they can prey on the freshwater crocs and they pose threats to humans who visit the area. Because of this there is constant monitoring and removal of any that are found.

The Passage From Gorge One to Gorge Two

Our journey took us to the end of the first gorge, where a forbidding line-up of rocks demanded that visitors must come ashore and walk to the next gorge. Because we were seeing the rock art, we stayed here and took a short walk up to the walls of the gorge.

Two Kangaroos and a Man

Sadly, we went no further and the quality of the art we saw was much less than we had experienced in Kakadu and Arnhem Land. It's possible they cut the experience short, because it was an unusually hot day for this time of year, at 102 degrees Fahrenheit. Not all passengers were in good physical shape, so perhaps prudence led the organizers to decide not to risk anything more demanding. I was disappointed,

300 Foot Cliffs

The sandstone cliffs reveal the water levels here, at the end of the dry season. You can see that the river is currently well below the white 'regular' water level, and the horizontal grey shadowing above, shows how high it gets in the wet. As we returned to the train, I did my best to accept that at least I had seen part of the famed Katherine Gorge.

Red Soil Ahead

We spent the Saturday night on the train and Sunday saw Fran and I disembarking in Alice Springs, where we joined 24 other souls to explore 'The Red Centre' for a week. I will share more on that next time.