Thursday, August 26th, 2021 - The Best Outcome From Changed Plans

We started the day hoping to have an easy one, by lounging at the nearby Terra Nostra Pool and Gardens. We planned to arrive at opening time, so when we wandered down the hill and saw how many others had also planned to arrive at opening time, we were a little dismayed at the wait. The notice at the gate said the pool was limited to 250 people and we were not sure if the wait would result in success. So we decided to switch plans and drive out to the east of the island, to a place called Nordeste. 

Miradouro do Poco Ferro

But first, we had to check where we had been yesterday from the top of the mountain behind the caldeiras. You can see he bare patch toward the bottom left of the photo which shows you the size of the thermal activity area - not really very big.

Caldeiras da Lagoa das Furnas

This photo gives you a closer bird's eye view of the caldeiras and you can easily see the number of cooking holes available. I count around 30, which means that the little ticket counter we saw yesterday would only be able to make a maximum of 90 euros per day! It's probably not going to pay the bills.

Farol do Arnel Nordeste

Less than an hour away, we arrived in Nordeste in full sunshine. Unlike Mosteiros, it is not at sea level as there is the customary steep drop-off to the ocean. Our first stop was the scenic lighthouse.

On the road to Farol do Arnel Nordeste

There was a nice concrete road going down to the lighthouse that was wide enough for a car - but so steep, I was afraid we would drop into the ocean, not to mention how we would handle two way traffic and turning at the bottom. So out we got and hoofed it down the hill - we're getting good at that.

Farol do Arnel Nordeste

But what a lovely reward that gave us! We decided this was a close enough viewpoint, but when we looked over the edge....... 

Porto do Nordeste

........ we discovered we had a bird's eye view of the tiny fishing village even further down the hill. Have you ever seen so many hairpin turns in one spot?! Now you see why we didn't drive down!

Nordeste

I'll spare you the photo and the story of the hike back up the hill - it all worked out - and take you directly to Nordeste, which appeared to be a provincial center.

Igreja Matriz de São Jorge

The church was more elaborate than others we had seen, and there was a more European feel to the arrangement of the town's main square.

Nordeste

There was a very elegant bridge out of town, too. I suspect the locals appreciate not having to go up and down the little valley there.

Fruit truck in Nordeste

As we were enjoying our lunch, I saw the first clue as to why the little mini-marts we have seen to date had such a poor selection of fresh foods. I figured there must be another way that people are getting fresh vegetables, fish and meat, and sure enough this delectable array of fruit suggests that local vendors have other delivery systems. As he drove, he was announcing his wares, much like the ice- cream vans that drive around our neighborhoods. The mini-marts are for the more industrial types of products. 

Canna Lilies at Miradouro do Pico Longo

Our goal was to continue around the island so we will have done a complete loop, so the miradouro's became our visual gifts. This one was one of the most resplendent with its garden.

Miradouro do Pico Longo

I hope you are not getting weary of photos of a beautiful green coastline that is impossibly steep. We didn't attempt to climb down, but in some places I saw walking trails of hairpin bends and traverses that look as if they make it possible to get to the ocean.

Monarch in the Zinnias at Miradouro do Pico Longo 

There were lots of bees in the flowers, and I do have photos of them, but this time I thought I'd show you the beautiful Monarch Butterfly that was having a lovely time in the sun! 

Volcanologic and Geothermal Observatory, Lagoa

You might be relieved at this point that the weather turned rainy and the lovely viewpoints no longer offered any loveliness! So off we went to a place that has been on my list since the beginning, the geology place. I wanted to see if their orientation could help me better understand the existence of this place in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. This revelation will be deferred until tomorrow - so watch this space!

Complexo Municipal de Piscinas, Lagoa

To finish this wonderful day, Robyn suggested that we take a dip at the municipal pool. It was a swimming complex unlike any other I've seen before - a combination of conventional pools and open sea bathing. It was not hot!

Complexo Municipal de Piscinas, Lagoa

It was really fun to swim around the little coves, not at all like my lap swims at home. Although the ocean was quite calm, the waves had unexpected power. As one went toward the more open water, there were the ropes again. I wondered how the lifeguards were able to keep a good eye out for the entire space. 

Complexo Municipal de Piscinas

I know you really want proof that I went in!

It was a brilliant way to end this long day of driving.

Ermida de Nossa Snhora da Paz

By now, you must know that it's not just a matter of getting in the car and driving without passing up some loveliness. So we had to take a brief detour to this church/hermitage on the top of a hillside near Vila Franca do Campo. It was built in 1764, and may have replaced a more primitive temple, possibly erected in the 16th century. It honors a place where shepherds found an image of the Virgin in a cave - there's an elaborate story about how they tried to build the structure in a slightly different place, but when they came back the next day, everything had been taken down, so they figured this was the spot the Virgin wanted it. It really is a wonderfully photogenic creation.

Vila Franca do Campo

From the previous photo, just turn around 180 degrees and this is the view over Vila Franca do Campo, with the Islet of Vila offshore. It is an old volcanic cone that has a lake curled up inside it. This view only hints at its secrets. It can be visited by boat, but a drone photo gives you an idea of its entirety, so I will tease you with this link that shows it up much better than my photo. 

https://www.azoreswhalewatch.com/saomiguelazores/ilheu-vila-franca-campo/

This had been a fabulous day - it didn't start out according to plan, but once we got into the alternative, it flowed in a most magical way. I hope you enjoyed it too.