Saturday, August 21st, 2021 - The Ilhéu dos Mosteiros - A Merry Chase

 

Today was another work day for Robyn, so I set about on my own. Perhaps the subtitle should be something like 'how a few rocks drove a woman crazy!' 

Casa do Pescador-Sol - our AirBNB & Renault Elf Rental

Since we have been here, I have been entranced by the big rocks off the beach here, the Ilhéu dos Mosteiros - or in English - the Islands of Mosteiros. Of course, when I look on the internet, I see lovely photos of them, showing the layering and detail on them. However, whenever I have stuck my camera at them, I've ended up with nothing but silhouettes, which doesn't meet my fantasy of how I want them to look - the price of this 'photographers' ego.

Our Lady of the Conception Church - front

So, armed with my trusty Nikon I set off to find an angle and light that will please me. My plan was to head up the hill leading into town, as I have noticed them prominently as we drive here. The map tells me there is a little trail around the headland to the south, so if the weather holds, perhaps I'll catch a photo that pleases me.

That found me passing the church, above - and this time the light was right, so I was able to get the front of it.

Rua da Ariea

As I walked toward the hill  I was reminded of the narrowness of the roads and the lack of pedestrian walkways. This was why I was hoping to avoid going up the main road out of town. 

Cemitério de Mosteiros

My wanderings took me through some new areas where I came across this cemetery. I liked the brightness, the flowers and the round shapes.

Grand Gates

I also noticed in this part of town, homes that were more grand than the ones I have shown you before, so I'll expand our repertoire of images. I liked the yellow and cream of this one. Note the lovely view of the rocks through the left-hand gate - dang - a good perspective hidden!

Main road out of town

Unfortunately, the rock and cliffs don't allow for a trail to go around to the next headland at a lower level, so I found myself hiking up the hill, after scrambling and sliding along a steep hillside below the stone fence. I kept a watchful eye on the traffic and hugged the side of the road tightly in the face of oncoming traffic.

Tiny church at the top of the hill

At least I was rewarded at the top to finally be in a position to photograph this tiny church. I couldn't find any reference to it online, but had  noticed it every time as we came in and out of town. You have to be on foot to stop there - otherwise it is too treacherous with the traffic.

Finally, a side road!

Emboldened by a local woman who said there was a miradouro ahead, I got in my stride along this little road in search of the perfect position on the next headland.

Translated, the sign means 'old way street'! Love it! I knew I was on the right track!

I found a nice view looking up from Mosteiros to the rim of the crater where we walked yesterday........

.........larger homes without the white stucco.......

....and places that had gardens and were more along the lines of an English cottage.

View of Mosteiros from a sugar cane field

I saw lots of sugar cane, corn, hydrangeas, ginger, a dirt road with fields between me and the ocean and gates blocking access to the cliff. Finally I climbed around a gate and trekked across a corn field, then a cane field, slithered down a shallow terrace on my bottom and and still found that the best views were blocked by the cane that was planted right up to the edge. It was too thick to push through, so I settled for this cozy patch in a cleared field. I thought this dried up wild carrot seed pod was fascinating and I liked the hint of Mosteiros in the background. 

Ilhéu dos Mosteiros 

But, after all that effort and sweat - I still have silhouettes! So I sat and enjoyed and drank my water before admitting defeat.

Happily there are always bees to save the day! (And when there's not, we'll all be in trouble!)

Praia dos Mosteiros 

As I walked back down the hill into town, I was rewarded by this rather nice view of the black sand beach. Of the three I've seen here, this is the nicest.

Ilhéu dos Mosteiros

In a last ditch effort, I decided to just check out the local beach - the same spot I'd been at the first night here. And this is what I got - no longer silhouettes - so there you go. Sometimes I go to great lengths and then discover that the simplest and first idea might be the best!

Lapas

Our treat this evening was a meal with our AirBNB hosts - Marcos and Celia. Marcos is a fisherman. He free dives to catch his fish and shellfish. He said he can hold his breath up to two minutes and clearly loves his work! He makes videos, which are posted on youtube.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRIsb_XwygQ This one gives you and idea of what his workday migh be like. 

The appetizer was lapas, which we know as limpets. They are cooked over a hot flame.

Marcos's kitchen

Marcos has his own kitchen behind the house. Celia's kitchen is inside. He has a lovely barbeque in the corner where he cooked the lapas and fish for us.

Fish caught fresh this morning for us

The fish were all ready for the barbeque.

Before eating, Marcos cut through the entire fish, breaking the bones. He said the head was the tastiest part of it, if one is willing to eat with fingers, as knives and forks are not helpful. He was right, it had more flavor than the regular meat. It was very delicious, along with lots of lemon juice potatoes and salad. 

It was a great way to end the day!