Tuesday, August 31, 2021

Saturday, August 28th, 2021 - Moving on to Ponta Delgada

 Our trip is winding down now, as we plan a last few days in the capital, Ponta Delgada. After all this green beauty in the countryside, the idea of city life was not thrilling us. At the very least we must get our Covid tests before returning to the US, so we figured a few days here just to scope things out.

Tree Fern at Caldeira Velha

As a last hurrah, we stopped again at Caldeira Velha, a hot spring on the north side of the Fogo volcano. This time we had a reservation, so we were able to enjoy two hours of dipping in and out of the hot water and enjoying the vegetation. I got entranced by the 'fiddle heads' emerging from the huge, lush tree ferns. I decided they should be called 'cello heads' instead, they were so big.

Caldeiras Velho

The setting was more natural than the one at Donna Beija in Furnas, and each pool was clearly marked with the number of people it could hold. There were three of these natural pools and they never got crowded.


First, I was amazed to find this boiling pool, that also had little boiling puddles right underfoot. This video shows you my ugly, but very practical Merrell water shoes right next to some of these puddles. Then the video pans to the pool itself. The sign says, 'Danger, Boiling Water - 140 to 212 degrees Fahrenheit'. That one was too hot to swim in, that's for sure.

Caldeira Velha

So we just hung about and moved around between the three pools.

Tree Ferns, Caldeira Velha

While sitting in one of the pools I noticed the huge fiddle heads and spent quite a bit of time trying to get 'that perfect shot'. I ended up deciding the first one in the blog is the most photogenic - the close-ups just look very hairy and moist, so I'll spare you the results. I had fun. I like it when I challenge myself to be creative - sometimes it works, sometimes not. That's why I call myself a traveler, rather than a photographer. When I have that impulsive 'Oh, that looks interesting' and just stick my camera at something usually gives the most satisfying outcome.

Bat Box, Caldeira Velha

The intended residents of this box were clearly marked - I hope they can interpret the signage OK. Note in the back left the hint of solar panels on the hillside.

Cold Pool and Watefall at Caldeira Velha

We finished our time in a refreshing cool pool. Robyn was relishing in the waterfall.

Pico Vermelho Geothermal Power Station

Before leaving the area, I just had to stop and recognize the geothermal power station nearby. It's a really bad photo - I was in a rush, because I was afraid they might think I was some type of industrial spy!

The deep system of hot water from the earth is tapped for geothermal power, using a binary method - meaning that there is a heat exchange between the hot water source and another fluid, in this case, pentane. It is the pentane that moves through the turbines to create electricity. 60% of the electricity here is produced through alternative methods - mostly wind and geothermal systems.

Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

Our first outing once we arrived in Ponta Delgada, was a visit to the nearby pineapple plantation, pretty close to the center of the city.

Because it is not hot enough for the plants outside, they are cultivated in greenhouses. This also allows humidity to be controlled. The ones we have tasted to date were very delicious - had an almost coconut flavor. However, in most of the mini-marts we saw them, they were quite expensive - close to $10 each.

Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

The roofs are painted with some type of white lime compound to regulate the temperature.

Pineapple 'Flower' at Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

I decided the flower is very lovely. 

Pineapple juice and gelato at Plantacao de Ananas dos Acores

I indulged in the juice and ice cream and both were wonderful, Robyn had a diferent drink. I was also quite pleased to discover that the straw that came with the juice was edible - a pleasant lime flavor - so I ate it, too.

Street Art in Ponta Delgada

My first encounter in the old city was this interesting piece of art work in someone's doorway. If you look closely, you can see that there is a reflection sketched on the right hand side, which the artist hasn't finished. The one on the left looks as if it is a masked face, but the mask is over the eyes, not the mouth.  Political statement? Or just artistry? I liked the curlicue moustache.

Ponta Delgada Near the Saturday Market

It has the look of a town that's been here a while. The city streets are cobbled with the local hard-wearing basalt and the sidewalks are decorated with a white stone from mainland Portugal - most likely limestone. This is apparently typical elsewhere in Portugal and is called calcada portuguesa. It turned these street from mundane to something much more attractive.

Narrow Streets of Ponta Delgada

The streets are quite narrow, allowing only one way traffic. Even walking is hazardous with cars passing close by. Many of the buildings have little balconies with attractive grille work.

Pedestrian Alley - Punta Delgada

Many of the north south roads have been turned into appealing pedestrian alleys - very often with restaurants and cafes lining them.

Octopus Wall Art near the Port - Ponta Delgada

I saw this compelling octopus on our way to dinner, when we took a bit of a stroll by the port. 

When we arrived in the Azores at the beginning of our trip, we had completed all our paperwork online, so we were each given coupons for 35 Euro by the government to reward our compliance. (This ends August 31st - so no rewards for you! Sorry!)

We decided to use our coupons at restaurants and were on our way to oBACo (or The Bacchus) at Hotel Ponta Delgada. This was rated on Tripadvisor as the 5th best restaurant in Ponta Delgada. 

Wine Bar at oBACo

Arriving at 7 pm, we were the first in the restaurant - the Europeans definitely haven't caught on to intermittent fasting yet! 

Squid salad appetizer.

We chose a price fixe option with four courses - they called it a 'discovery'. I don't want to bore you with lots of details about it, but the entire selection we were given was superb. I'm not usually a gourmand, so it was a special treat. While the coupon did not cover the full cost, it offset the luxury nicely.

Water Carafe at oBACo

I also delighted in the European style of water at the table. I had forgotten this nice custom.

Finishing Station at oBACo

The secret to our pleasure had been this finishing station where all the lovely additions added beauty, crunch and flavor to our dishes.

It was a very pleasing way to end our day and enjoy at least one aspect of city life. Tomorrow Covid tests and then head home Tuesday. 










































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