Thursday December 21st and Friday December 22nd, 2023 - Away From the Lights (Almost!) and the Hazard of Being From the South (Brrrr)

 

Place Dufferin at Chateau Frontenac

I had seen the Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac listed as having one of he best high tea experiences in the world, so we pulled out our wallets and made a booking at their Dufferin Place restaurant. https://samantha-brown.com/destinations/best-places-for-afternoon-tea/ 

The Setting was Elegant

High tea is about so much more than the food - it's the setting, the experience that counts more in my opinion, and on this score the hotel fared well. The service was excellent and our seat right by the window looking out on the Dufferin Terrace was lovely.

 

Our Food

We discovered that tea in Quebec is not the usual 'English' fare. The brands they sell - even English Breakfast - are mellow and don't have that wonderful strong 'hit' of a good cuppa. The selection of finger foods was a treat for the eye and fortunately delicate servings, so we didn't leave stuffed. As I told them I avoid gluten (I haven't been a purist here - who can refuse baguette!) I was given somewhat less stylish gluten free items. Clearly the cakes and breads had been stored in frozen state, and even when I repeatedly told them when we booked, they were still cold and one was still frozen, so while I give them high marks for having it available, the delivery was incomplete!

Sunset Over Levis

The restaurant was at the base of the huge hotel at the level of the Dufferin Terrace, so we were able to watch the activity outside.

Maple Syrup Taffy

Once we ventured out from our cozy corner, we found the Dufferin Terrace was very active. There were people making and selling maple syrup taffy. They have a trough of ice and pour the taffy into the ice to make it more solid. Then they wrap it around a wooden stick, which makes a small sweet treat.

Toboggan Slide on Dufferin Terrace

It was also fun to see that the toboggan slide was in action. It looked like fun, however, to get a sled one would have to wait in the long line you see to the right. The combination of fear and bitter cold in the wind persuaded us to move on!

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac

The magnificence of the huge hotel is very hard to capture in one photo. Since it was completed in 1893, it has been expanded to its present size, with the last renovation being done in 1993. The tower was built in 1924 and is 18 stories high. The entire the structure houses 610 guest rooms and suites and three restaurants. It was used as the location of one of the World War II planning conferences with Roosevelt, Churchill and the Canadian Prime Minister, and has hosted many famous guests.

View From the Port

Robyn and I ventured down to river level in hope of catching a more distant view of the city skyline. It was quite bitter but we were intrigued to see the water in the lock freezing up. It doesn't take much to amuse we southerners!

Fortifications by the St, Lawrence River

The preservation of the fortifications here is in large part the reason it is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site - the only place in North America where the structures have been preserved north of Mexico. Reading the history of their placement reveals my ignorance of  Canadian history. It seems that the French settlement immediately began some form of fortification in 1608, but the 2.9 miles of the present ramparts were first built in 1690 during a period of conflict between the French and the English. By 1759, things were in bad repair, which contributed to the defeat of the French forces very close to where we are staying, on the Plains of Abraham. It led to the French Colony being incorporated into Canada. The walls and weaponry later had a role in conflict against the Americans in 1775, early in the American Revolutionary War.

Chateau Frontenac From River Level

 This photo shows the reason for this area being chosen to built such a fort - the 250' cliff of  Cap Diamant, on which the hotel now stands. It offers height, strategic advantage and a great view due to a bend in the river. 

Skaters at Place De Youville

We passed the skaters again on our way home. They were still having fun!

View From Top of Montmorency Falls - Bridge to Isle D'Orleans

 The following day we rented a car and ventured out of the city to Montmorency Falls and Ile D'Orleans.

Icicles at Montmorency Falls

The falls were an icy wonderland. The vapor created from the 272 foot drop let to all sorts of crystalline structures on the surrounding cliffs. 

Closed Viewing Platform

Some of the viewing areas were closed, for obvious reasons! I loved the soft placement of the frozen water droplets - this is not snow, but the result of vapor freezing and creating a gentle, pure covering on the platform and stairs at the base of the falls.

View From Suspension Bridge Over Montmorency Falls

There was a suspension bridge across the top and it was rather scary peering over the rails with the falls thundering around us.

Field Trip at Montmorency Falls

While we were quaking in our boots on the bridge, this little group of school children trekked across from a nearby school. They were all connected to some type of harness and their destination appeared to be this playground. Not sure how they manage with their big mittens - but no doubt they have it all figured. I envied them their snow pants!

Pile of Snow Base of Montmorency Falls

Youth certainly finds the best ways to have fun - just a big pile of snow from ploughing the parking lot was offering free fun!

Montmorency Falls

The falls are 98 ft higher than Niagara Falls, but as you see, do not have the width of the more southern cascade. Nevertheless, very beautiful, especially on the bright, sunny day we were blessed with.

A Closer View

You can see the bridge across the top of the falls - the tiny little dots are people! It was spectacular.

North Coast Ile d'Orleans

We drove around Ile d'Orleans and discovered that the warmth and comfort of the car didn't lend itself to active photography! Clearly people were all set up for the winter. I loved the bright red roof of this little homestead, with the hills of the Laurentian Mountains behind.

Cidrerie Verger Bilodeau

We saw place after place closed for the season, but this little cidery was open.

Packing Up the Products

By now there were no Apples in sight, but the place was busy creating lovely packaging for their ciders and spreads. I had a dream in my heart for a lovely, hot mulled cider, but we we informed that we would have to heat our own cider! 'Quelle deception'! 

Yay - Boulangerie is Open!

Less disappointing was to find this boulangerie open.  A fresh baguette has been on my list, so we happily ventured forth to explore.

Boulangerie Blouin

The door to the bakery was open to the street, so we were able to check out the action. 

Inside the Boulangerie

Inside was colorful and bright and not exactly what I would expect from a local store - very fancy. We goy our lovely baguette and cheese, which is just as well, as every other eatery on the island was closed, so we at least had something nice to munch on.

Sainte-Famille Church

The boulangerie was in the oldest settlement on Ile d'Orleans - Sainte-Famille, which was founded in 1661. The church was built in 1743. 

House of Our Ancestors, Sainte-Famille

 This village is a member of  the Most Beautiful Villages of Quebec and this building stores genealogical and historical records of the area. They have launched a fund-raising campaign for its preservation.

House on the South Shore I'le D'Orleans

As we drove, we recognized the beauty of this little island, but also saw it clearly being a summer resort. Businesses were closed and we could only imagine how lush the field and woods must be during the summer. 

Green in Winter?

I'm not sure how this famer manages to have a green field, but here it is!

Farm Near Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre 

Most growing at this time of year has to be in a greenhouse, like this one, which we saw near our final destination, Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre.

Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre 

Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupre is home to this enormous church. The land here has a long history, dating back to 1658 when it was donated to the church. This structure was begun in 1926  and completed in 1946. The site is reputed to be he site of a  number of miracles and there were many other religious buildings nearby. It had been a lovely day - sunshine and easier on the legs. We were happy to head home at this point to an evening of catching up with ourselves.