Monday December 18th & Tuesday December 19th, 2023 - A Brief Wintery Sojourn in the North

 

View Approaching Quebec City, Canada

'Let's go somewhere cold for Christmas', said Robyn. As you can see from the absence of any blog entries since New Zealand, my travel legs have been quiet. A back problem, that was resolved by surgery, has persuaded me to stay local for a while, but the idea of a relatively short flight appealed to me.

An Antler Chandelier - Montreal Airport

A quick Google for the most picturesque Christmas spots in North America led us to Quebec City, Canada. Other than some paddling in the Quetico Provincial Park back in the late 70's, I have never visited my Colonial Brethren in the north, so it seemed high time to change that. However, while it is in another Commonwealth nation, Quebec is really like visiting France, so perhaps we don't share quite the same colonial roots!

Flavor Choices for Bubble Tea at Labothery

Hauling our suitcases around a shopping mall complex had not been part of our arrival plan, but a phone accident on the plane led us to seek the Apple store for repair. It was in Place Ste-Foy, one of three shopping malls we trekked through. Once we had done all we could to address the phone problem a cup of tea was just the ticket! However, the line at the ubiquitous Starbucks was soooo long, I approached this bubble tea store - Labothery - for my first experience of this modern beverage. It was a complicated process of choosing flavors - I started with matcha and coconut for a warm bubble tea......

'Bubble' Selections at Labothery

........then I chose litchi for my 'bubble' component. The resulting drink was pleasant, but very lukewarm. It was served in an opaque cardboard cup - so didn't present a photo opportunity. Give me my hot cup of black tea with milk any day!

Place Moncalm - Location of AirBNB

How I had hoped for a snowy welcome! Not so - as you see there are nothing but drifts of dirty snow and no predictions for precipitation 'til after Christmas! Oh, well! 

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac From the Citadel

A good night's sleep helped set us off for our first sortie on Tuesday morning. We approached the old fortified city from a park by the St. Lawrence River, past The Citadel. Quebec City is a fortified city - the only one north of Mexico. This uniqueness, as well as it's old and picturesque streets has earned it certification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In the center of the old city stands Le Chateau Frontenac - perched at the highest point of the town on the edge of the cliff of the St. Lawrence River. The original Chateau was built in 1893 as one of a number of chateau style hotels built by Canada's railroad companies - it is now a Fairmont hotel. I rather liked this perspective looking down at the grand building.

The City Gate

It is a walled city, and once within, the streets narrow.

Rue Saint-Louis

Once inside the walls, the streets, understandably narrow.  I loved the color of the flags and the awnings and was grateful that it was not midsummer - I imagine it would be much more crowded then.

Le Restaurant Le D'Orsay

Our destination was a lunch reservation at Restaurant Pub D'Orsay - which had been recommended by a friend. It sits right by the City Hall and the Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica.

An Angel Over the Nativity at Notre Dame de Quebec Basilica

An angel beckoned us to visit the nativity that was on display outside the cathedral. 

Cathedral Nativity

It was a pretty fancy nativity.

Pub-Like Interior of D'Orsay

The inside of the restaurant felt very much like a pub. I loved he warm feeling it evoked.

Mussels and Fries for Lunch!

Our friend had recommended the escargot and mussels, so we followed her advice. We were not disappointed. I normally don't post food photos, but I thought the mussels were so pretty that you would enjoy seeing them. We had them served with cream and mustard, which we diligently licked off the shells as it was all so delicious. The escargot were the best I've ever eaten - very garlicy and smothered in cheese. A chaser of French Onion Soup allowed us to leave full and very satisfied.

Ferry Across The Saint Lawrence River

After lunch, there were a few glimmers of sunshine, the temperature was mild, but when in the wind, it approached bitter. Perhaps we'll have time to take this ferry over to Lévis on another day.

Rue du Petit Champlain - View From Breakneck Steps

Our next stop was a wander down the famous pedestrian shopping street, named after Samuel de Champlain, who founded Quebec City in 1608.

Popcorn being caramelized at Mary's Popcorn Shop

In spite of the temperature being in the high 30's, a number of stores had their windows open so one could se the action within. It must have been hot in the stores! We were intrigued to see popcorn being caramelized in this huge drum - and even more intrigued to see that the spray can of butter (?) the young woman was holding was Kirkland Signature - from Costco. Somehow that 'traditional' feel evaporated a little.

Construction Trash Being Tossed Out the Window

We were also deeply amused to see this method of getting rid of the construction trash from a building under repair at the Breakneck Steps. Many bags were being tossed down to a man standing at street level. I know in my history books we were told of trash (and more) that would be dropped out of the old world buildings of European towns - here it was in action. What fun to see. I was glad it was in bags that would then be hauled away.

Rue du Petit Champlain

The pedestrian street was charming, and of course a tourist magnet. Filled with boutiques and eateries, it was very appealing.

Relaxation Spot on Rue du Petit Champlain

In addition to all the commercial activity, there were little rustic side areas with fire pits that people could rest in. I imagine in the summer it would be a delight to rest in the Adirondack chairs and take a breather from the hectic pace. 

Multilingual Toilet Sign

Having followed the signs to find a toiled, I was charmed by this confirmation that I was in the right place!

Instagram Moment!

I felt awfully good being back in my explorative, inquisitive mode, and being with Robyn makes it easier to plan, find our way around and give the enjoyment of sharing the experience with another. You'll notice my knee brace. That's the next medical issue I'll be facing - happily the brace, an anti-inflammatory and the walking poles allowed me to get around just fine. My main limitation is that I have to take it slowly when going downhill and down steps.

Catching the Evening Sun on Rue Saint-Louis

It was only 3:30 pm, but already the sun was getting prepared to set. I had greatly enjoyed our day of wandering. Now to find a grocery store and enjoy a quiet evening at home.