Saturday, September 13th to Sunday, September 14th, 2025 – Animals (Especially Koalas), Gardens, and Yummy Food, in Sydney

A Good Old-Fashioned Sydney Ferry

After our adventures among the rocks of Sydney Cove, we decided that some greenery would make a wonderful change, so we took a ferry from Circular Quay on Saturday morning, to visit the Taronga Zoo and Gardens on the northern shore of the Harbor. Built on the side of a hill, it is steep and offers great views of Sydney. In fact the word 'Taronga' is an Aboriginal word meaning 'beautiful view'.

The Old Entrance to Taronga Park Zoo, Sydney

This zoo has been around for a long time – it opened in 1916. I was here in the 1950's with my family, when I was around four years old. I don't remember much of it, but it was a time when animals were put in wire cages and people would peer at them through the metal mesh. I must have been a little too enthralled by them, as I was repeatedly told, through the years, that a monkey had reached through the wire and pulled my hair! Happily I have either blocked the memory or was not traumatized, because I really don't remember it and I don't hate monkeys!

We had been told there was a good area with Australian animals, so we headed there first. They have created a wonderful, immersive area, to see a number of Australian icons allowing one to move among them freely. They call it Nura Diya – a naming gift from First Nations People who allowed its use. It means 'This Country'.  

Emu - Photo by Frances Peters

The emus were not as cooperative as the first Nations People, and didn't pose nicely in the morning sun and shadows. I didn't succeed in getting a particularly good photo. The one above is thanks to Frances and gives you an idea of their size which is about as tall as an average human. Like the rheas of Patagonia, the male is the parent who tends the nest after the egg is laid and after it hatches. The female is free to mate again and it is possible that the chicks the male is raising may not even be related to him. Both birds will mate with multiple partners, so I guess the dad has to hope that another male is looking after his chicks.

The 'Evil' Eye!

Emus are not as dangerous as the other large, flightless bird here – the cassowary – but they do have a large three-clawed foot that can do consequential damage if they feel threatened. They make a most peculiar drumming noise which sounds as if it is coming from from their belly. In fact, it is made by a sac in their throat and is a low frequency sound that can travel close to 1.5 miles. I have always thought they have a very evil eye – it's a bit scary to see that big beak and red eye close to one's own head. I keep my distance – this photo was thanks to a zoom lens.

Red Kangaroo

Most of the kangaroos were lazing around in the morning sun. This one looks as if it found something of interest to eat, so he was resting on his powerful tail as he searched for morsels. Although they are not 'caged', the area does not grow enough grass for them, so the keepers bring it in for them to eat.

A Little Round Bump, High in a Tree!

Our primary target was the koala compound, and we were not disappointed at all! There were many trees in the area, and it seems as if every one of them had a 'bear' perched somewhere. Just to be sure we get it right, they are not actually a bear, but a marsupial whose closest relative is a wombat. When koalas are seen in the wild, it is usually way up on top of a tree. They show up as a little, round bump and can be hard to see from the ground. The trees in this enclosure were relatively short, and humans had a raised platform to observe from. Fran and I had a marvelous time chuckling, and falling in love with them. This fellow above amused me with her 'three legged' approach to securing herself. (They were all females in this enclosure.)

Another Koala Perched With One Hand Free

This koala was also using the three claw method, but seems to be a little better nestled into her tree. Australia has over 700 species of eucalypts, but koalas are very specialized and will only feed on 30 of these. The leaves have been abundant in the past, but development is threatening their specialized supply. The keeper said it is projected that they could be extinct by 2050 at the current rates of decline. The leaves they eat are low in energy and high in fiber, with toxic compounds that would poison other animals. Their specialized digestive system, has 6.5 feet of intestine packed with microorganisms, which enable them to digest the leaves, but it takes a lot of energy. To support this process, koalas conserve their energy by sleeping up to 20 hours per day, waking up to an hour at a time to have another feed before the next nap. They also have a low metabolic rate – their breathing slows, their body temperature drops and some energy consuming tasks are slowed down.

Home From the Supermarket

 Sleeping in a tree that you can eat, must be like sleeping in the supermarket, waking slightly and just stretching out a hand for the occasional snack. They have an unusually small brain relative to their body size, which is another way of reducing energy expenditure, as the brain's electrical activity uses up a lot of it. I hate to think that might explain the incredibly satisfied expression we saw on their faces!

She's Out Looking for Something!

While we were there, one koala became quite active. She was pacing, moving about rapidly and climbed the tree with agility. We were not sure what was going on with her – but she was burning energy fast. We were surprised by how quickly she was able to move.

Our 'Encounter' Koala

OK, OK, I know! I promise this is the last koala photo I'll show you. In the past, places like Taronga allowed visitors to hold the bears for a photo opportunity. These days, they only allow people to come close enough to have their photo taken with the beautiful animal, but there is no touching. It is illegal for unauthorized humans to handle them throughout Australia. This is because it is very stressful for them, in addition to the fact that we carry germs that are dangerous for them. The keeper said they might get a virus or bug on Monday, and be dead by Friday. I thought I'd spare you the dorky photo of Fran and I posing with this one and just highlight her. To help ease my disappointment at not being able to hold one, I do remember that when my daughters had done that almost 20 years ago, they ended up with very strong eucalyptus smelling pee and or poop on them for their trouble!

Trees for Humans

The koalas were not the only creatures climbing trees at the zoo. There was an impressive high ropes course that both adults and children were enjoying. No doubt it offered fabulous views across the harbor to the CBD.

Spiny Ant-Eater

Also in the exhibit was a spiny ant-eater, or echidna, one of Australia's egg laying monotremes. It was the only creature we saw that was doing that distressing 'pacing' that used to be so common in zoo creatures in the past. These are also an adorable animal. Times I have encountered them in the wild, they have either curled up into a little ball, using their spines to protect them, or have tried to dig down into the ground with their strong claws, to try to hide their vulnerable face.

Spinifex Hopping Mice

There was a very superb nocturnal animal exhibit with a variety of very small creatures I had never seen before. As they only come out at night, they are hard to spot in the wild. My favorites were these little Spinifex Hopping Mice. They live in the outback and have a very efficient kidney which extracts every ounce of moisture from their diet of roots, shoots, leaves and insects. In the 'moonlit' enclosure, my Samsung S25 Ultra did a great job of capturing their fast, fast movements.

Platypus - Video by Frances Peters

Another monotreme, the platypus, was on display in the nocturnal enclosure. These water-living animals are Australia's equivalent of the beaver in the US. With a flat tail, one might occasionally hear a slap in the wild to announce their presence in a pond or river. Other than that, they are very difficult to see outside of zoos and reserves. I was busy retrieving my walking pole which had been left back by the emus (duh!) so Fran was the one who captured this excellent video of the little platypus in her large tank. The child nearby was intrigued and the mother did a great job of explaining things.

Common Mynah

This little bird had flown in from outside the zoo, to flit around and eat these exotic looking flowers. In spite of being striking with the yellow on its head, the common Mynah is  an unwelcome guest in Australia. It is an invasive species that was brought to Australia from Asia in the 1860's and later, to help control insects. Indeed, it is well named, as it commo here now, and aggressively competes with native birds for food and nesting sites. It also carries diseases that can threaten native species.

White Headed Pigeon (left) and Topknot Pigeon (right)

There was a lush aviary which had a variety of birds. These two - the white-headed and topknot pigeons - stayed still enough for me to get a decent photo. They appeared to be having a bit of a love-fest while perched on this sign and although of different species, they made a very handsome pair in my opinion.

Saturday Yacht Races in Sydney Harbor

After a rather nice lunch, we managed to tear ourselves away from the animals and headed back to the ferry. The harbor was now lively with yachts. Being a weekend, they were busy with races and partying.

Yachting, with Fort Denison and Sydney CBD in the Background

It was hard to imagine a prettier place to be racing a yacht than on this sunny day, with a good breeze blowing. The structure in the background is Fort Denison a small island in the Harbor which was first developed in 1841 as a fort during the Crimean War. The fear was that Russia might want to attack Sydney, so this round structure, called a Martello Tower was created for defense. These towers were built by the British across their empire in the 1800's for coastal defense. This one, according to Google, is the last complete one in the world. The Russians did not invade, but the Japanese sent three mini-subs into the Harbor in 1942. A ferry that had been converted to a barrack ship, the HMAS Kuttabul was sunk, although the intended target was the American ship USS Chicago. Fort Denison was damaged when the American ship fired at the submarine.

Fort Denison was also used as a site for more severe punishment of convicts. They were isolated here and given meagre rations - hence the name 'pinchgut' was given to the little island.

The 'Southern Swan'

Our ferry passed an old-style sailing boat, which I believe was the Southern Swan, a three masted schooner which was built in Denmark in 1922. It is available for a tour or cruise through Sydney Tall Ships. I thought it's sails made a wonderful contrast with the modernity of the city behind it.

Sydney Botanical Gardens

Sunday morning saw us off to walk to the Opera House via Mrs. Macquarie's Chair and the botanic gardens. The chair was built overlooking the harbor so that the Governors wife in 1810 could sit and enjoy the view. The steps were carved into the rock by convicts at the time. The light was so mottled as the sunshine shone through the leaves of the tree overhead, that I don't have a photo worth posting for you.

Farm Cove, Enjoyed by Many

Many folks were out enjoying a walk, run, tai chi or just laying in the sun, taking in the fresh air and sunshine. 

Australian White Ibis

Birds were also out enjoying themselves, This Australian White Ibis might be having some luck looking for grubs. The red on the back of its head is a feature of breeding season and indicates it is ready to mate. They have become a bit of a pest in urban settings. They're sometimes referred to as 'bin chickens' as they will seek out food from trash. I've seen them attempt to snatch food off plates at outdoor restaurants. With that long beak, it would be a bit disconcerting to have it land on your table!

Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo

This sulphur-crested cockatoo was flying around squawking and screeching with another. They are often seen in flocks and in many places provide constant background noise, especially at night when they are trying to get settled on their perches high up in the trees. It seems odd to me that they don't seem to remember where they slept the night before. A lot of the noise appears to be due to them jostling for position on the branch. In other settings, it is an alert call that warns of danger.
They are protected in Australia, in spite of their raucous presence  and their ability to destroy crops. Because they are a parrot, they are at risk of being illegally trafficked and are worth thousands of dollars to collectors in other parts of the world.

Victoria Lodge

This pretty building was built in 1865 at the eastern boundary of the small cove here, which was the first garden of the colony in the 1800's. The small bay is called Farm Cove and it starts on the eastern side of the current opera house. It is a charming cottage which is rented out for function and special events.

Protea

We were somewhat undisciplined in following maps, so the only collection on plants that we wandered through was the South African section. The proteas were lovely in different stages of bloom.

Grevillea

We did find a cousin of the protea towards the end of our walk - a variety of grevillea. There are over 300 species native to Australia, and like the protea they develop lovely spidery petals in a variety of colors. It is delightful to find them in the wild.

Covent Garden Hotel

Following our walk, for something completely different, we signed up for a foodie tour in Chinatown, So from the botanical garden, we hightailed it over to meet opposite this Covent Garden Hotel. This current building was put up in 1912 due to council renovations of the markets across the street - Paddy's Market. It replaced another building which had been trading as a pub since 1871. You can see the China Gate on the left hand side of the photo. The hotels had been set up to accommodate the farmers who were bringing their produce to market from out of town. Many of the farmers were Chinese, so while staying in town, they needed somewhere to eat - hence the development of restaurants.

Asian Fusion Food

Our family used to come to this part of town for family outings to the restaurants in the 1950's and 1960's when we lived in Sydney, well before there was any gate or tourism in the area. It was a rare treat and I suspect part of the reason Dad brought us here was because it was not expensive. I learned to use chopsticks here. Now there's a huge variety of regional dishes and a range of possibilities from traditional to fusion. I don't think chopsticks would have helped to eat this thick ass French toast! LOL! 

Soup Dumplings at Nanjing Dumpling, Little Hay Street

Happily, the thick ass French toast was not on our menu. We walked around and ate a variety of different street foods, starting with a Taiwanese breakfast, fan tuan, which is like a breakfast burrito wrapped in sticky rice instead of a taco. It was pretty good. We ended here at Nanjing Dumpling for a soup dumpling, which requires a little skill to eat without spilling or burning oneself. All the food was quite tasty.

Dictation Test for Australian Citizenship - 1901 to 1973

In addition to sampling a variety of foods, our guide detailed the difficulties experienced by the Chinese population in Australia over the years. The earliest big influx was in the 1950's, when gold drew fortune seekers to the country. The Chinese were collaborative hard workers and along with some luck, this led to them being quite successful. This led to resentments and anger from European settlers. Along with good old common garden prejudice and cultural misunderstanding this culminated in violence against the Chinese and ultimately influenced the creation of the White Australia policy which was established in 1901, the year that the country became a federation.

The paragraphs above were a sample of a dictation test that any non-European immigrant was required to pass. The immigration officer would read the paragraph and the applicant was required to write it verbatim immediately after. This resulted in a 97% failure rate. By 1905, the test was amended so that the immigration officer could choose to administer it in any European language. This pretty much led to a 100% failure rate. Although the law was not officially repealed until the 1970's, its application began to relax after the 1940's. The 2021 census shows an Asian population of about 17% - a far cry from the not quite 2% in 1901. It has transformed the cultural and racial diversity of the land I grew up in, as well as improving the food enormously.

New Chinatown - The Exchange

In 1968, the fruit and vegetable market moved away from this area to Flemington, about 10 miles away, and Chinatown went into decline. In consultation, the community leaders and the city of Sydney began to pivot to attract tourists to the area. The gates were built and one of the main streets became a pedestrian mall. It appears to have been quite successful as there is now a significant new area that has many new restaurants. It is a 'hive' of activity.

'In Between Two Worlds' by Jason Wing, Kimber Lane

Next to the Nanjing Dumpling Restaurant, there was a narrow alley way, full of trash cans, called Kimber Lane. In it, there are long angelic-looking figures hanging above the lane way. The artist, Jason Wing, is an Aboriginal man, with a Chinese father. In both Chinese and Aboriginal culture there are spirits, which are represented by the hanging shapes, which represent our past, present and future. At night the outlines of these figures are illuminated in blue - transforming the space from its ordinariness and also increasing public safety.

It felt like a perfect transition for me as we prepared to leave Sydney to come to the Northern Territory, where we will see a great many more images of these mimih spirits.

Stay tuned.