Tuesday September 16th and Thursday, September 18th, 2025 - Kakadu, Northern Territory, The Top End

 

Sunset From Ubirr Rock

A four and a half hour plane ride from Sydney, found Frances and I picking up a car in Darwin, the capital of the Northern Territory. After nearly three hours of driving east, we were in Jabiru, where we planned to stay for four nights. Jabiru is the only town built within a national park in Australia and was established in 1982. Its development followed the opening of the Ranger Uranium Mine not far away, which opened in 1980 and closed operations in 2021. (It might come as no surprise to know that the Aboriginal people here had identified the area as 'sickness country' - in addition to the uranium, there were high amounts of arsenic, mercury and lead.) 

Arnhem Highway (Photo by Frances Peters)

With the establishment of the mine, the previously dirt road was built into a highway, which led to easier access to this beautiful area and more tourism. To support both the mine and tourism, Jabiru was developed, for accommodation and a as a regional service center. There was a hotel, several resorts, caravan park, supermarket and gas station.

Notice - Bowali Visitor Centre

We can thank the Bininj (Bining) and Mungguy (Moong-gooy) people for creating art work and caring for the land here for millennia. Archeological research within Kakadu has uncovered artifacts dating back at least 65,000 years. These include stone tools, spear tips, ochres for rock paintings and food remnants. This has led to the area earning listings in two UNESCO World Heritage categories - one for its natural features of wetlands, rivers, and varied and dynamic landscapes. The other UNESCO category is for the cultural aspects of ancient Aboriginal heritage - such as rock art and archeological sites - and the living culture which maintains Aboriginal community and spiritual connection to the land which is a central tenet of indigenous life here.

'Cool' Burn - Photo By Frances Peters From the Car Window

Fire is a big part of caring for land here and has been for millennia. We drove through an number of areas that were still actively burning. It was a little tough to be certain it was safe, as in our part of the world and in other parts of the world, fire will burn out of control and cause great destruction. We also did not see any personnel monitoring the burn. The Aboriginal people carried firesticks in the past and when the time was right in the dry season and there was no wind, they set cool-burning fires. When the vegetation grew back, new game was attracted to the fresh growth and the environment was safer from the large raging fires that we fear in our world. The fires we drove through had been set by the park rangers. No one appeared concerned about them.

Road to East Alligator River

One of the prominent features of this part of the world is numerous rocky outcrops, along with wetlands. Much like Florida, one can presume that any body of water is probably host to a rather unfriendly and dangerous inhabitant - the salt water crocodile. 

Salt Water Crocodile on East Alligator River

I did not expect to be impressed by these creatures, presuming that my exposure to similar animals in Florida and Georgia was sufficient for one lifetime. However, I must tell you that they were quite enormous! It is the largest reptile on the planet, reaching up to 23 feet and 2,200 pounds. On top of that, they are territorial and hence aggressive, resulting in several dozen attacks on people each year.

Strongest Bite in the Animal World

Referred to here as 'salties', they have up to 66 teeth that can be up to five inches long and have the greatest bite pressure of any animal in the world. 

Just Lying in Wait

Like the alligators in Florida, they sit at the surface of the water when they are not sunning at the banks of the river. With a superpower of being able to hold their breath for up to eight hours, they are the perfect predator. The only saving grace is that their food needs are light - averaging 50 full meals per year. Adults can go up to a year without feeding due to their slow metabolism and ability to store energy.

East Alligator River

In order to enjoy these views, we had signed up for a cruise along the East Alligator River, which now forms the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Now you might ask, where are the alligators? Well, in fact, it is a misnomer. The English navigator who named the river in 1818, was unaware that these reptiles were crocodiles and not alligators, but the name has stuck all these years. It is possible that I might have made the same mistake had I discovered them here, but thanks to Google, I can tell you that the crocodile has a V- shaped jaw, compared to the alligator's 'U'. The crocodile also lets his teeth hang out for all to see and fear, while the alligator's teeth can't be seen when the mouth is closed. In addition, alligators are generally less aggressive and prefer fresh water to salt water.

Blue Water Lilies

In some places, the sides of the river were very pretty, with blue lilies. (And yes, that's actually its name - Nymphaea violacea.)

Rock Art

We had come to this part of the world in hope of seeing some Aboriginal rock art, and even from the middle of the river, we could clearly see the paintings on the wall of this overhang. Because the fish have whiskers, we were told it means that there is catfish here. On the very left of the picture, you can see a handprint. I will not claim that I have come to understand this art form at a very deep level, but it sems that much of what we saw was basically a menu, telling others what type of food can be found nearby. The handprint is the signature of the artist, from what I can gather.

Sandstone Oddities

The predominant rock in the area is a sandstone, which has weathered into quite interesting shapes in some places. I thought this formation looked rather like a cat!

Billabong

We stepped ashore for a moment to see a small billabong, or oxbow lake, not far off the eastern shore. You might be familiar with the famous song - Waltzing Matilda - about the swagman who was sitting by a billabong, This one was probably much more lush than the one in the song, as there was no sign of sheep here. The tree with the drooping leaves you see is a pandanus, who's leaves are used by Aboriginal women to weave baskets, dillybags and mats. It also can be used to make rope, and provides food and medicine. It was abundant anywhere near water.

Fishing With Spear and Woomera

Our guide was a gentle and soft spoken Aboriginal man who demonstrated the effectiveness of the woomera to help launch his spear. You can see it in his right hand - a second object, about a third of the spear in length. 

The Woomera

It is a woomera, which provides additional leverage. With it, the spear traveled an impressive distance. He said the spears he uses for fishing have three barbs at the end, which are made from anteater spines. When he retrieved the spears from the water (after we were back on the river) he joked about the nearby crocodile. His humor was quite consistent in suggesting that he keeps a very respectful distance from the salties. He said that only works half of the year, as he lives on a island that becomes marooned in the high waters of the wet. He certainly gave the impression that he is able to live without access to a grocery store - a skillset that I found quite enviable! (Although I don't aspire to try it!)

Following our cruise on the East Alligator River, we went on to nearby Ubirr, a site within Kakadu National Park that has extensive rock art and a beautiful view over the vast plains of Kakadu and into Arnhemland. The outcrop with the view is very popular at sunset.

Miyamiya Warning

This painting showing the swollen joints and bones of a condition called miyamiya was accompanied by a sign explaining that the illness is due to a spiritual sickness that can be contracted if one disturbs the stones of sacred sites. There were a few places where signs requested that we not take photos and with the prospect that one could get muyamiya, I found it easy to oblige. 

The Rainbow Serpent

As you might imagine, it is much like visiting an art gallery with many paintings depicting a great variety of things, I'm not able to explain everything I saw. Some of the paintings have been dated back to 30,000 to 40,000 years ago, while others are more recent. The medium used, is ochre, which was ground into a powder and mixed with water, some type of animal fat and sometimes even blood. Because the substrate is sandstone, the 'paint' penetrates into the pores of the rock, accounting for its durability. The painting also are often placed in caves and overhangs where they are protected from rain and wind. 

The Rainbow Serpent, shown above, is an important creation being, Garranga'relli, who painted the landscape and all it contains. She painted this rock to remind people of her visit. The painting was also accompanied by a story telling about a time when the usually peaceful being became upset to hear the ongoing crying of a child coming from an Ulbu camp. The Rainbow Serpent  rushed into the camp after the night of continual crying and trapped the child and all the people in its huge circled body and swallowed the child and most of the people! The side note to this terrifying story was that it is unusual to hear Aboriginal children crying without being comforted.

X-Ray Painting

There were excellent examples of a style of art called X-Ray art, where the painting shows the internal structure of the animal's bones. Generally speaking, the predominant colors were red, yellow and white. To some extend, one can see that the red is the paint that lasts the longest. The white disappears first, and the yellow is somewhere between. This one is mostly red and has a little yellow still.

White Man

It would be no surprise then, to suggest that this one, in white ochre, is quite modern. The man is dressed, with hands in his pockets and large boots. Clearly this painting is only several centuries old and would have been a means of recording contact with white people - whether it was drawn to warn or educate is unknown. The sign next to it said the arrival of Europeans would have been a major event! No doubt!

Mimih Spirits

If you remember back to the lane in Sydney, with the angelic looking figures handing above it, this image, on the roof of a high overhang, is an authentic representation of this type of spirit, called mimih. They are believed to be the spirits that taught the people how to hunt and survive in the bush, along with the skill of painting. They also have special abilities that the people don't, as their images are always found in very high places, which are out of the reach of regular humans. It is believed that they are very tall and thin, or that they simply pull the rocks down, paint on them and then put them back up in place. The mimih are extremely shy and timid, inhabit rocky escarpments and and only emerge on days with no wind, as they are very fragile and a stiff breeze could be fatal for them. They are invisible to most people.

No Photography, Please

Every now and then, an area would be signposted to let us know it as not available for photography. While there is no monitoring, I always respected these requests. Even if there is no one to hold me to account, I can't deny to myself that I've 'broken trust' and wonder how that might manifest in my life. There are mysteries surrounding Aboriginal spiritual powers that lead me to be cautious! (I will share stories about this when we get to Uluru.)

Mimih Home?

There were many excellent examples of rock art in addition to the ones I've shared, but the sunset was calling us and we headed to the escarpment where many others were gathering in the golden glow.

A Great Vantage Point for Sunset

Fran and I were very pleased that we were able to scramble up to this point of the Ubirr sunset viewing area. We did not climb the final rise, as it was crowded and we could see ourselves being overwhelmed by the numerous and much younger and able-bodies souls when the beautiful display came to an end. You can see in the first photo of this blog the beautiful and lush landscape that stretched out before us.

Looking Toward Arnhem Land

The light really was vibrant. This is my favorite photo capturing the golden light of this fabulous time of day.

Toilets at Anbangbang (Nourlangie)

The following day, Wednesday, we went on a day tour to Arnhemland. I will tell you about that in a separate post, so now we'll move onto our second Kakadu adventure further south of Jabiru, to a rock called Nourlangie and later, Cooinda. I have no idea why I'm giving you a photo of the bathroom, except that it shows that things were pretty decent here. There were flushing toilets, clean, with toilet paper and most had hand soap. Things were well developed for tourists.

Nourlangie -  Burrunggui

The area referred to as Nourlangie was Warramal clan land, but they are no longer here, so it is being looked after by members of neighboring clans, in adherence to traditional law. The name Nourlangie, which identifies it on road maps and signage is actually incorrect: a misunderstanding by the Non-Aboriginal people who came. The top of the rock is called Burrunggui (Boo-rong-goy), while the base is called Anbangbang (Arn-barng barng).

Signage at Anbangbang

I was struck by this sign from the caretakers of this site (they are the Djok, Mirrarr and Murrumburr). Not only are they caring for the land of their deceased neighbors, but they respectfully share it with us, although they live elsewhere. To me it seemed very thoughtful - allowing us a window into this world of the past, but not wanting their own lives to be interrupted, or claiming ownership of this abandoned land for themselves. This national park is one that is jointly managed by indigenous communities and government personnel.

Kangaroo or Wallaby is on the Menu Now

Further north, in Ubirr, we had seen frequent references to fish on the walls. This southern area was not so close to the water, so images of kangaroos were more common. Here you see the hunter using his spear and woomera to hunt a kangaroo for his family's dinner. We were disappointed that we didn't see kangaroos. There were a couple of much smaller wallabies that had been hit by cars on the side of the road.

Namarrkon, the Lightning Man

The artwork in the shelters at Angbangbang was exceptional. One of my favorites was the Lightning Man - Namarrkon, who is an ancestral being associated with the power of thunderstorms - using thunder to communicate. His wife, Barginj, and he are parents to the Leichhardt's grasshopper, which appears when the first storms of the wet season break. To me, he looks like a grasshopper with a bolt of lightning around his head.

On the Way to Ceremony

One of the other reasons I liked this site, is that it also showed the people going about their life. Here, the sign told us, was a family group of men and women on their way to ceremony. The sign also told us that the women with the markings on their breasts, were breastfeeding. I liked the shape of their hairdos. The white figure above them, is the wife of Lightning Man - Barginj. She also looks like a grasshopper.

Anbangbang Shelter

The temperatures here are, surprisingly, not too extreme - ranging between the 80's and 100's Fahrenheit. It is likely that the proximity to the ocean moderates them from being too extreme. However, they do have an annual rainfall of 95 inches, so one can appreciate that shelters like this one, under big rocks, must have been an enormous blessing in the wet season. In the large, flat rock on the lower right of the photo, one can see holes where the women would grind seeds for making 'flour' cakes. From artifacts found here, anthropologists estimate that this shelter has been used for 20,000 years. 

Lookout to the East

We did not climb to the top of this magnificent escarpment, but there was a lower lookout that gave a view across to the east. I was drawn to the beauty of the trees as you see here. There is nothing quite like the smooth trunk of a eucalypt glimmering in the sunshine. 

Timor Imperial Pigeon

After spending time at Anbangbang, we sought our own 21st Century shelter, with lunch and a swim at a fancy resort, Cooinda. It was delightful watching this little Timor Imperial pigeon enjoying his own lunch of fruit from a palm tree near the pool in Cooinda.

Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. 

We ended the day with a visit to the Warradjan Aboriginal Cultural Centre. This was also a place where they requested no photography. While it had a great deal of information, I regret that my brain was already pretty full, so I can't tell you much about it!

'Sorry Business' in Jabiru

Before we leave this area to go back to Darwin, I want to share with you a few images from Jabiru. The first one is to illustrate an observation of grieving - the red line that we saw, smeared at shoulder height, around many of the public buildings here. Fran and I were puzzled - it was systematic and extensive - far too ubiquitous to just be careless graffiti. Googling for an answer revealed that it is a mark of mourning for a young woman who was killed in a car accident. The note I found said she faced a promising future, as one who 'walked a path between modern ways and traditional living'. Here's a link for more images if you're interested. https://andrearowe.com.au/sorry-business-in-kakadu/

Sulphur Crested Cockatoos Settling Down For the Night

Finally, I share a photo of cockatoos settling into a tree for the night. It was quite dark, so the photo from my phone is not great, but we were very amused to hear the squawking and seeming cries of distress as they jostled for position in the tree. It seemed about as crazy as watching the egrets settle in Simmons Lake in Amelia Park - birds that insist on being at the top of the tree, perching on branches that seem way too small for them. It must be a case of safety in numbers!

Next blog will share from our day in Arnhem Land.

Saturday, September 13th to Sunday, September 14th, 2025 – Animals (Especially Koalas), Gardens, and Yummy Food, in Sydney

A Good Old-Fashioned Sydney Ferry

After our adventures among the rocks of Sydney Cove, we decided that some greenery would make a wonderful change, so we took a ferry from Circular Quay on Saturday morning, to visit the Taronga Zoo and Gardens on the northern shore of the Harbor. Built on the side of a hill, it is steep and offers great views of Sydney. In fact the word 'Taronga' is an Aboriginal word meaning 'beautiful view'.

The Old Entrance to Taronga Park Zoo, Sydney

This zoo has been around for a long time – it opened in 1916. I was here in the 1950's with my family, when I was around four years old. I don't remember much of it, but it was a time when animals were put in wire cages and people would peer at them through the metal mesh. I must have been a little too enthralled by them, as I was repeatedly told, through the years, that a monkey had reached through the wire and pulled my hair! Happily I have either blocked the memory or was not traumatized, because I really don't remember it and I don't hate monkeys!

We had been told there was a good area with Australian animals, so we headed there first. They have created a wonderful, immersive area, to see a number of Australian icons allowing one to move among them freely. They call it Nura Diya – a naming gift from First Nations People who allowed its use. It means 'This Country'.  

Emu - Photo by Frances Peters

The emus were not as cooperative as the first Nations People, and didn't pose nicely in the morning sun and shadows. I didn't succeed in getting a particularly good photo. The one above is thanks to Frances and gives you an idea of their size which is about as tall as an average human. Like the rheas of Patagonia, the male is the parent who tends the nest after the egg is laid and after it hatches. The female is free to mate again and it is possible that the chicks the male is raising may not even be related to him. Both birds will mate with multiple partners, so I guess the dad has to hope that another male is looking after his chicks.

The 'Evil' Eye!

Emus are not as dangerous as the other large, flightless bird here – the cassowary – but they do have a large three-clawed foot that can do consequential damage if they feel threatened. They make a most peculiar drumming noise which sounds as if it is coming from from their belly. In fact, it is made by a sac in their throat and is a low frequency sound that can travel close to 1.5 miles. I have always thought they have a very evil eye – it's a bit scary to see that big beak and red eye close to one's own head. I keep my distance – this photo was thanks to a zoom lens.

Red Kangaroo

Most of the kangaroos were lazing around in the morning sun. This one looks as if it found something of interest to eat, so he was resting on his powerful tail as he searched for morsels. Although they are not 'caged', the area does not grow enough grass for them, so the keepers bring it in for them to eat.

A Little Round Bump, High in a Tree!

Our primary target was the koala compound, and we were not disappointed at all! There were many trees in the area, and it seems as if every one of them had a 'bear' perched somewhere. Just to be sure we get it right, they are not actually a bear, but a marsupial whose closest relative is a wombat. When koalas are seen in the wild, it is usually way up on top of a tree. They show up as a little, round bump and can be hard to see from the ground. The trees in this enclosure were relatively short, and humans had a raised platform to observe from. Fran and I had a marvelous time chuckling, and falling in love with them. This fellow above amused me with her 'three legged' approach to securing herself. (They were all females in this enclosure.)

Another Koala Perched With One Hand Free

This koala was also using the three claw method, but seems to be a little better nestled into her tree. Australia has over 700 species of eucalypts, but koalas are very specialized and will only feed on 30 of these. The leaves have been abundant in the past, but development is threatening their specialized supply. The keeper said it is projected that they could be extinct by 2050 at the current rates of decline. The leaves they eat are low in energy and high in fiber, with toxic compounds that would poison other animals. Their specialized digestive system, has 6.5 feet of intestine packed with microorganisms, which enable them to digest the leaves, but it takes a lot of energy. To support this process, koalas conserve their energy by sleeping up to 20 hours per day, waking up to an hour at a time to have another feed before the next nap. They also have a low metabolic rate – their breathing slows, their body temperature drops and some energy consuming tasks are slowed down.

Home From the Supermarket

 Sleeping in a tree that you can eat, must be like sleeping in the supermarket, waking slightly and just stretching out a hand for the occasional snack. They have an unusually small brain relative to their body size, which is another way of reducing energy expenditure, as the brain's electrical activity uses up a lot of it. I hate to think that might explain the incredibly satisfied expression we saw on their faces!

She's Out Looking for Something!

While we were there, one koala became quite active. She was pacing, moving about rapidly and climbed the tree with agility. We were not sure what was going on with her – but she was burning energy fast. We were surprised by how quickly she was able to move.

Our 'Encounter' Koala

OK, OK, I know! I promise this is the last koala photo I'll show you. In the past, places like Taronga allowed visitors to hold the bears for a photo opportunity. These days, they only allow people to come close enough to have their photo taken with the beautiful animal, but there is no touching. It is illegal for unauthorized humans to handle them throughout Australia. This is because it is very stressful for them, in addition to the fact that we carry germs that are dangerous for them. The keeper said they might get a virus or bug on Monday, and be dead by Friday. I thought I'd spare you the dorky photo of Fran and I posing with this one and just highlight her. To help ease my disappointment at not being able to hold one, I do remember that when my daughters had done that almost 20 years ago, they ended up with very strong eucalyptus smelling pee and or poop on them for their trouble!

Trees for Humans

The koalas were not the only creatures climbing trees at the zoo. There was an impressive high ropes course that both adults and children were enjoying. No doubt it offered fabulous views across the harbor to the CBD.

Spiny Ant-Eater

Also in the exhibit was a spiny ant-eater, or echidna, one of Australia's egg laying monotremes. It was the only creature we saw that was doing that distressing 'pacing' that used to be so common in zoo creatures in the past. These are also an adorable animal. Times I have encountered them in the wild, they have either curled up into a little ball, using their spines to protect them, or have tried to dig down into the ground with their strong claws, to try to hide their vulnerable face.

Spinifex Hopping Mice

There was a very superb nocturnal animal exhibit with a variety of very small creatures I had never seen before. As they only come out at night, they are hard to spot in the wild. My favorites were these little Spinifex Hopping Mice. They live in the outback and have a very efficient kidney which extracts every ounce of moisture from their diet of roots, shoots, leaves and insects. In the 'moonlit' enclosure, my Samsung S25 Ultra did a great job of capturing their fast, fast movements.

Platypus - Video by Frances Peters

Another monotreme, the platypus, was on display in the nocturnal enclosure. These water-living animals are Australia's equivalent of the beaver in the US. With a flat tail, one might occasionally hear a slap in the wild to announce their presence in a pond or river. Other than that, they are very difficult to see outside of zoos and reserves. I was busy retrieving my walking pole which had been left back by the emus (duh!) so Fran was the one who captured this excellent video of the little platypus in her large tank. The child nearby was intrigued and the mother did a great job of explaining things.

Common Mynah

This little bird had flown in from outside the zoo, to flit around and eat these exotic looking flowers. In spite of being striking with the yellow on its head, the common Mynah is  an unwelcome guest in Australia. It is an invasive species that was brought to Australia from Asia in the 1860's and later, to help control insects. Indeed, it is well named, as it commo here now, and aggressively competes with native birds for food and nesting sites. It also carries diseases that can threaten native species.

White Headed Pigeon (left) and Topknot Pigeon (right)

There was a lush aviary which had a variety of birds. These two - the white-headed and topknot pigeons - stayed still enough for me to get a decent photo. They appeared to be having a bit of a love-fest while perched on this sign and although of different species, they made a very handsome pair in my opinion.

Saturday Yacht Races in Sydney Harbor

After a rather nice lunch, we managed to tear ourselves away from the animals and headed back to the ferry. The harbor was now lively with yachts. Being a weekend, they were busy with races and partying.

Yachting, with Fort Denison and Sydney CBD in the Background

It was hard to imagine a prettier place to be racing a yacht than on this sunny day, with a good breeze blowing. The structure in the background is Fort Denison a small island in the Harbor which was first developed in 1841 as a fort during the Crimean War. The fear was that Russia might want to attack Sydney, so this round structure, called a Martello Tower was created for defense. These towers were built by the British across their empire in the 1800's for coastal defense. This one, according to Google, is the last complete one in the world. The Russians did not invade, but the Japanese sent three mini-subs into the Harbor in 1942. A ferry that had been converted to a barrack ship, the HMAS Kuttabul was sunk, although the intended target was the American ship USS Chicago. Fort Denison was damaged when the American ship fired at the submarine.

Fort Denison was also used as a site for more severe punishment of convicts. They were isolated here and given meagre rations - hence the name 'pinchgut' was given to the little island.

The 'Southern Swan'

Our ferry passed an old-style sailing boat, which I believe was the Southern Swan, a three masted schooner which was built in Denmark in 1922. It is available for a tour or cruise through Sydney Tall Ships. I thought it's sails made a wonderful contrast with the modernity of the city behind it.

Sydney Botanical Gardens

Sunday morning saw us off to walk to the Opera House via Mrs. Macquarie's Chair and the botanic gardens. The chair was built overlooking the harbor so that the Governors wife in 1810 could sit and enjoy the view. The steps were carved into the rock by convicts at the time. The light was so mottled as the sunshine shone through the leaves of the tree overhead, that I don't have a photo worth posting for you.

Farm Cove, Enjoyed by Many

Many folks were out enjoying a walk, run, tai chi or just laying in the sun, taking in the fresh air and sunshine. 

Australian White Ibis

Birds were also out enjoying themselves, This Australian White Ibis might be having some luck looking for grubs. The red on the back of its head is a feature of breeding season and indicates it is ready to mate. They have become a bit of a pest in urban settings. They're sometimes referred to as 'bin chickens' as they will seek out food from trash. I've seen them attempt to snatch food off plates at outdoor restaurants. With that long beak, it would be a bit disconcerting to have it land on your table!

Sulphur-Crested Cockatoo

This sulphur-crested cockatoo was flying around squawking and screeching with another. They are often seen in flocks and in many places provide constant background noise, especially at night when they are trying to get settled on their perches high up in the trees. It seems odd to me that they don't seem to remember where they slept the night before. A lot of the noise appears to be due to them jostling for position on the branch. In other settings, it is an alert call that warns of danger.
They are protected in Australia, in spite of their raucous presence  and their ability to destroy crops. Because they are a parrot, they are at risk of being illegally trafficked and are worth thousands of dollars to collectors in other parts of the world.

Victoria Lodge

This pretty building was built in 1865 at the eastern boundary of the small cove here, which was the first garden of the colony in the 1800's. The small bay is called Farm Cove and it starts on the eastern side of the current opera house. It is a charming cottage which is rented out for function and special events.

Protea

We were somewhat undisciplined in following maps, so the only collection on plants that we wandered through was the South African section. The proteas were lovely in different stages of bloom.

Grevillea

We did find a cousin of the protea towards the end of our walk - a variety of grevillea. There are over 300 species native to Australia, and like the protea they develop lovely spidery petals in a variety of colors. It is delightful to find them in the wild.

Covent Garden Hotel

Following our walk, for something completely different, we signed up for a foodie tour in Chinatown, So from the botanical garden, we hightailed it over to meet opposite this Covent Garden Hotel. This current building was put up in 1912 due to council renovations of the markets across the street - Paddy's Market. It replaced another building which had been trading as a pub since 1871. You can see the China Gate on the left hand side of the photo. The hotels had been set up to accommodate the farmers who were bringing their produce to market from out of town. Many of the farmers were Chinese, so while staying in town, they needed somewhere to eat - hence the development of restaurants.

Asian Fusion Food

Our family used to come to this part of town for family outings to the restaurants in the 1950's and 1960's when we lived in Sydney, well before there was any gate or tourism in the area. It was a rare treat and I suspect part of the reason Dad brought us here was because it was not expensive. I learned to use chopsticks here. Now there's a huge variety of regional dishes and a range of possibilities from traditional to fusion. I don't think chopsticks would have helped to eat this thick ass French toast! LOL! 

Soup Dumplings at Nanjing Dumpling, Little Hay Street

Happily, the thick ass French toast was not on our menu. We walked around and ate a variety of different street foods, starting with a Taiwanese breakfast, fan tuan, which is like a breakfast burrito wrapped in sticky rice instead of a taco. It was pretty good. We ended here at Nanjing Dumpling for a soup dumpling, which requires a little skill to eat without spilling or burning oneself. All the food was quite tasty.

Dictation Test for Australian Citizenship - 1901 to 1973

In addition to sampling a variety of foods, our guide detailed the difficulties experienced by the Chinese population in Australia over the years. The earliest big influx was in the 1950's, when gold drew fortune seekers to the country. The Chinese were collaborative hard workers and along with some luck, this led to them being quite successful. This led to resentments and anger from European settlers. Along with good old common garden prejudice and cultural misunderstanding this culminated in violence against the Chinese and ultimately influenced the creation of the White Australia policy which was established in 1901, the year that the country became a federation.

The paragraphs above were a sample of a dictation test that any non-European immigrant was required to pass. The immigration officer would read the paragraph and the applicant was required to write it verbatim immediately after. This resulted in a 97% failure rate. By 1905, the test was amended so that the immigration officer could choose to administer it in any European language. This pretty much led to a 100% failure rate. Although the law was not officially repealed until the 1970's, its application began to relax after the 1940's. The 2021 census shows an Asian population of about 17% - a far cry from the not quite 2% in 1901. It has transformed the cultural and racial diversity of the land I grew up in, as well as improving the food enormously.

New Chinatown - The Exchange

In 1968, the fruit and vegetable market moved away from this area to Flemington, about 10 miles away, and Chinatown went into decline. In consultation, the community leaders and the city of Sydney began to pivot to attract tourists to the area. The gates were built and one of the main streets became a pedestrian mall. It appears to have been quite successful as there is now a significant new area that has many new restaurants. It is a 'hive' of activity.

'In Between Two Worlds' by Jason Wing, Kimber Lane

Next to the Nanjing Dumpling Restaurant, there was a narrow alley way, full of trash cans, called Kimber Lane. In it, there are long angelic-looking figures hanging above the lane way. The artist, Jason Wing, is an Aboriginal man, with a Chinese father. In both Chinese and Aboriginal culture there are spirits, which are represented by the hanging shapes, which represent our past, present and future. At night the outlines of these figures are illuminated in blue - transforming the space from its ordinariness and also increasing public safety.

It felt like a perfect transition for me as we prepared to leave Sydney to come to the Northern Territory, where we will see a great many more images of these mimih spirits.

Stay tuned.