Sunday February 5th, and Monday, February 6th, 2023 - Haast - Washing or Washout!

 The day we were in Franz Josef, Nadine noticed that much rain was expected on Sunday, and our host confirmed that they were predicting over three inches. He also confirmed Nadine's fear that it could lead to troublesome roads and landslides. He reassured us, that should we get stuck between two landslides, we should just stay in our car and eventually a helicopter would  come along and rescue us!

Sheets Drying at Haast AirBnB

Well, as you might imagine, THAT got our attention! You might also notice from the photo, that yes we did make it to Haast, but the rain also came down in sheets, just like the ones hanging above our heads when we got there! Our successful strategy was to be up at dawn, with car already packed, and get on the road as early as possible. It was only a few hours drive through the coastal mountains and using keen eyes and ears, we arrived for an early coffee/tea break and an AirBnB host who graciously allowed us to check in early.

Sheets Drying at Haast AirBnB

The sheets were on a ceiling-high drying rack at our AirBnB. You can see Nadine at the bottom of the photo, hauling on the ropes to bring the rack down to take the sheets off. It was the only one we've stayed at where we had to make up our own beds, but it was also the only one that was completely 'off the grid' with solar and wind power, backed up by a generator. In spite of the overcast skies, we survived without fossil fuels and felt very virtuous in knowing that at least our accommodation didn't help glacial retreat! LOL!

That afternoon we lerned there had been a landslide on the road behind us, and it was closed for several days after. The road ahead to Wanaka, also had a downed tree about 9-miles out of town, so in fact we were trapped between two road blocks, but we congratulated ourselves that we had planned to spend several nights here and settled in for a day of nothing other than listening to the wind and rain! We ended up getting 2.7 inches .

Looking South From Haast Toward Mt, Aspiring National Park

So why bother to stop in this remote town with four restaurants, a gas station, a wool shop and a mechanic? The population in 2018 was 84 and Google said the school for Grades 1-8 is the most remote in New Zealand - it is 20km south in Jackson Bay with an enrolment of 10!

I wanted to stay in Haast because reviews said it was a lovely valley and from the map, I imagined I might be able to see the snowy peaks of Mt. Aspiring National Park. This was important to me, because my earlier trip in the 1970's had involved mountaineering training, during which we summited the beautiful Mt. Aspiring and did an extensive hike to the Olivine Ice Plateau where we spent several nights in an igloo we built. As you see from the photo above, this Land of the Long White Cloud said - NO WAY - and kept any sign of snowy peaks hidden!

Anonymous Poem Displayed at Haast National Parks Visitor Center

On Monday the rain had eased up a bit and we stopped in at the National Park Visitor Center where there was much information about the plate tectonics that formed this region, the birds and animals found here, the vegetation and succession from the coast to the mountains etc, etc.

It also mentioned the early explorers and I could relate to an anonymous poem that this display told us about. The photo above shows you the poem. (I tried typing it out, but couldn't format the line-spacing in this blog platform - so once again you get the photo!)

Maori Flax Leggings and Sandals at Haast National Parks Visitor Center

As you might imagine in a place this cold and wet, the indigenous Maori needed clothing. One of the fibers they used was New Zealand flax - which is a ubiquitous plant we have seen frequently. The display above explained that they used these leggings and sandals when they were walking over the Haast Pass. Apparently they would take a spare pare of sandals, and if they needed more, could pick some flax and make a new pair!

New Zealand Flax Plants on the Right Hand Side of the Trail at Hopuka Estuary Walk

I discovered that the Maoris arrived in New Zealand from Polynesia between 1200 and 1300 AD.  The flax plant was new to them and they figured out how to process the leaves to use it in the same way they had used the pandanus at home. The green flesh you see on a fresh plant is scraped away with a sharp shell and the remaining fiber is pounded until it is soft, then washed, dried and woven, twisted and braided etc.

Maori Dress Made From Flax

I thought this dress was attractive, but not what I would call warm!

Maori Baskets Made From Flax

These baskets were very nicely constructed and I would be happy to use them for my shopping.

More Flax Plants at Hapuka Estuary Walk

Following our visit to the Interpretive Center, we drove south a few miles to take a short walk, called the Hapuka Estuary Walk. 

Uh, oh!

 It was quite flooded and Nadine turned back to protect her boots that would have been hard to dry.  I was just wearing sneakers so on I trekked. It was fun. (No snakes or alligators in New Zealand! Phew!)

Hapuka Estuary Walk

 

As you see, we were not the only folks on the trail! The kid thought it was fun, too, but his feet weren't the ones getting wet! 

Lookout on Hapuka Estuary Walk

Nadine was able to come around from the end of the trail to meet me at this outlook facing the ocean. It was so far away you could barely see the line of the beach off in the distance.

Raised Fishing/Boating Piers, Haast Beach

Following the estuary walk, we tried to find access to the that beach to get a better view of it, on our return trip to Haast. We found these odd fishing piers. I thought they were picturesque and had a Dutch 'feel' to them - maybe they have a windmill look?... or they reminded me of the locks on English canals we operated in my teen years. We couldn't figure out what purpose they serve, unless flooding also brings a lot of debris, like trees, that would demolish them. By pulling the piers out of the water, they protect their property from damage.

There Were Crayfish (Lobster) Traps

We also found a bunch of lobster traps as we tried to reach the beach. The catch gets flown around to markets around the the world within 32 hours.

Haast Beach

Getting to the beach was not easy. I was surprised that the public access was very limited - any little roads we saw had 'Private Property' signs or ended up in huge puddles, so I was only able to get on to walk along Haast Public Beach. When I got there, I found a 'Boneyard' that was Little Talbot Island, Florida, on steroids. When you consider the only landmass directly to the west of here is Argentina, you know that these trees came from the rivers and fiords of New Zealand. I see why they don't want their fishing piers sitting around at sea level when this lot comes down the pike!

Haast Beach

The beach was wild, steep, deserted and filled with fluffy brown sea-foam blowing around in the strong wind. The gulls were the only moving creatures sharing the space with me.

A Soaring Black-Backed Gull on Haast Beach

I watched the gulls soar in the strong wind, against the backdrop of the wild ocean. They are a different variety of gull, with their black backs. No surprise to discover that they are called Black-Backed Gulls!

Haast Beach Looking South

It was wonderful sitting in the wind, contemplating distant lands and looking south where we were headed next.

Haast Beach, Looking to the Mountains to the East

Throughout the day, I had kept my eyes on the mountains. They were constantly firm friends with the clouds - never a glimpse of snowy peaks. The tree on the road south has been cleared, so tomorrow we head over Haast Pass for three days in Te Anau to visit New Zealand's Fiordland.

In spite of the wet, we really enjoyed our little sojourn in Haast. It was not a washout, at all! And yes, we left the sheets washing in the solar-powered machine for the next guests! (It's OK, there's a person who comes in to clean, too!)