Thursday 28th and Friday 29th, 2022 - Great Heights, Camels Galore and A Muslim Village - Nubra Valley

 

A Day's Supply of Water - 4 Liters

Not a very impressive photo, is it! I include it because it is the amount of water suggested for daily consumption, to offset the effects of high altitude. In Leh, we were at 11,483 feet, but Thursday morning we were headed up Khardungla Pass, which is 17,582 feet high - an additional 6,000 feet.

Me at Khardungla Pass - A Little Out of Breath!

So, I prepared for this additional challenge to the body with lots of water and some medication (Diamox) which is supposed to help. As we approached the top, even sitting in the car, it felt like an additional pressure on the body and a little light headedness. When I saw the prayer flags a few meters above the road, I headed up the steps very slowly and methodically. No rushed movement was possible. How pleased I was to pose there! The signs at the pass and many websites claims it to be the highest motorable pass in the world!

Head in the Clouds!

We really were up in the heights! 

(There does need to be a true confession here. When I Googled 'highest motorable pass in the world' - Guess what! It is now overtaken by many others and currently is ranked at number 11! What a disappointment! I say we ignore Google!!)

Nubra Valley

Our reason for visiting this area was to visit some sand dunes and photograph some camels in Hunder, on the Shyok River and then visit a Muslim Village near Pakistan. We never did go far down the Nubra River itself, but its scale was enormous to see. Both the Shyok and Nubra Rivers approach the Karakorum mountain range, which holds K2, the second highest mountain in the world. There is a glacier here, the Siachen, which is the source of territorial disputes between Pakistan and India. The Chinese are also regarded as a threat in this area - mention was made of China's 'Five Fingers of Tibet' - ideas they broadcast occasionally that they have sovereign rights over Ladakh and four other Himalayan regions. 

A Welcome Sign?

Because of these potential disputes, there were many army bases in the area, which we were not permitted to photograph. In order to enter this region, our tour company had to organize special passes for us and we were asked to keep our passports available if the military called for them. Proud signage along the roads frequently referenced the Siachen Warriors (I am embarrassed to admit I thought it might be a soccer team at first - but they are actual warriors/soldiers!). This sign was being created - indicating that only the best of friends or the fiercest of enemies would want to visit this rugged area.

Angdu The Champion Archer

Now that we've got all that 'local knowledge' stuff covered, let's get on with the photography. The first arrangement was for one of our drivers, Angdu, to don traditional Ladakhi clothing - the Goncha and Tipi (hat). He is a skilled archer who competes in competitions, so this was not just a fancy dress party.

Boots off for the Water

He was an awfully good sport - trekking through the water so we could  get nice reflections......

Boots Back on and a Great Smile as he Worked!

...and running on the sand. Angdu did a great job to help us get some nice 'archer' photos.

Angdu Became a Cameleer!

He even went on to ride a camel for our cameras, too! Here you can get a better look at his beautiful boots. He definitely went above and beyond this day.

The Three Camels and Their Herders

Nathan et. al. had made arrangements for three camels and their herders to meet us. It was a very hazy afternoon, so the lovely mountain beyond cannot be seen, but I sort of like the misty, remote feel it gives, as if they're walking on air.

Up Hill and Down Dale

We had those camels walking up the ridge, down the ridge, towards us, away from us. Every angle imaginable!

Kicking up the Sand!

I like the action in this photo, with the herder kicking up the sand as he moved.....

C'mon Bessie!

....and the humor of this herder pretending that his camel won't move.

Life Long Companions?

You notice I'm referring to the men as camel herders. This photo would lead you to imagine a bond of great loyalty between animal and human. In fact, the numerous camels in the area are released at the end of each afternoon of work. There are hundreds of them used for tourist rides.

Tourists Ride the Bactrian Camels in the Sand Dunes

They graze overnight in the scrubby area, eating plentiful berries. Each day the herders round them up again to prepare for the next day of riders, so there is no assurance that the same animal and human work together routinely. The bond of affection you see in the prior photo may have only a brief history. It was still pleasing to see.

A Puddle! Let's Walk in It!

We returned the following morning in hope of better light. It required the herder to be out at around 4 am to find a camel for us. While the herder was getting into traditional costume for the photos, the camel took one look at us and said to her/himself - 'I'm outta here' and ran off back toward the brush! It led to a moment of hilarity as both Nathan and the herder were racing off across the vast valley to get our camel back! The herder won the day with a special food treat that served as camel blackmail! We were assured that this camel was especially beautiful! Sometimes their humps get a bit floppy, but this one had two very nice looking humps! We had a few giggles over that!

Water, Water Everywhere!

We did all the same types of photos as yesterday, but kept being drawn to water. When the whole herd showed up at the water hole, you know we had to get the herder and his camel to walk through the knee deep water! He was very agreeable and finished with a smile.... goncha and boots dripping and all. 

A Sweet Picture - Two Beautiful Humps!

We kept noting how adorable the camels were, then someone would remind us that they can spit and bite.

The Saddle Cloths Await the Day

So, we leave the camels with this photo of the saddle cloths waiting for the work day to begin.

 

Shyok Valley

Leaving Hunder, we headed off down this beautiful valley, toward Pakistan and some of the highest mountains in the world.

Observing Rules of the Road

The roads were decent - it was just a bit unnerving to come across the occasional 'weak' bridge! Happily our drivers were careful and observed the rules.

View From Bogdang - Pakistan 20 miles Away

The village we were headed to was the closest village to Pakistan in this valley until the Indo-Pakistani War of 1971, which now locates it about 20 miles from the border. The population is a Muslim ethnic group called Balti, who are of Tibetan descent. There are 272 households in the village.

Bagging the Harvest

We had been warned that the women here were shy and might be reluctant to be photographed, so when we first arrived, I was pleased that these two women agreed for us to take their photos.......

A Shy Smile

....albeit with a shy smile.

The Little Backpack/Basket (Tsepo) At Work

Not far away I noticed another woman going to and from a house that seemed to be under construction. She had devised a hands free way to dispose of construction debris from her little basket, called the Tsepo, which is woven from grass.

Over and Out!

I presume she had to use her hands to fill the tsepo inside her house, but once she'd brought it across the road she just bent over and out it all came with a whoosh! Notice her great technique for keeping her head well out of the way and covered with her shawl! I was VERY impressed with her.

A Different Architectural Style

Some of the newer houses had quite a different architectural style......

Geraniums at the Window

.......but the love of geraniums appears to be universal!

Some Faces Were Up to the Challenge

From this point on, it was a photographic free-for-all. Word got around the village quickly and we were surrounded by children on the narrow paths. Some women took me up to their porch to be photographed, much to my surprise - perhaps my grey hair had helped!

At First, One Covered Face

There wasn't much space to navigate, but these two women posed nicely, although the woman at back kept her face covered......

A Face Revealed.

....at first, then she took off her face covering, but did not look at the camera.

It Was Serious Work!

Grateful that these women offered this glimpse of themselves, it did feel very much as if there was hesitation behind their glances. Open smiles were not evident. I later saw this woman chastising a young girl (daughter I presume) for agreeing to be photographed.

Teen Model?

The younger girls were a little more comfortable - perhaps Instragram  has penetrated here!

There's that Peace Sign Again

As we walked around, we were followed by a gaggle of children.....

We Were the Attraction of the Day

....both boys and girls. When I showed the photos to the boys, they made disapproving noises and refused to be photographed.....

An Exceptional Boy

....except for his one boy, who held his gaze with the camera.

A Lively Smile

My last 'portrait' was a result of an Indian speaking women in our group who worked really hard to engage this little girl, who had started very shy. She was one of the few girls whose head was not covered and she had a delightful face. After trekking after us throughout, she and a friend agreed to start running and playing and she gradually relaxed and showed her 'true colors'!

The Truck is Loaded

When we returned to the cars, we found that the women who had been bagging the hay had succeeded in loading the huge bags onto this pickup, which had arrived in the meantime. It was one of the few times we saw men in the village. It had been a peculiar experience - I had noted the absence of men and the seeming disapproval of the boys and wondered if a cadre of male energy might arrive and chase us away. That didn't happen. The mixture of excitement and reserve among the women meant that any images I came away with were a true gift. 

It Had Been a Good Day's Work