Versailles is a place I have wanted to visit for some time - call it bucket list if you like! When I learned that my local chorale - The Island Chamber Singers - were planning a to perform in Paris next week, I signed on to join the group and indulged myself with a few extra days sneaking ahead of them to visit Versailles on my own.
I was surprised when I saw how high and imposing it was. Not only is it on a hill above the remaining countryside, it also appears to be built on elevated terraces. The tall structure you see to the right of center, is the Royal Chapel. I couldn't figure out how the inside of it was showing on the outside, until I realized that it is a wrap to hide the reconstruction. I couldn't decide if I liked the wrap or not. I would rather is represented the outside of the chapel, not the inside. I thought it rather profane to have all the cars around it, however.
The gate leaves no doubt as to what one might find within. In some ways it is 'over the top' to have so much gold foil (all of it a thin layer of real gold). The splendor with which this family lived is one of the reasons for the French Revolution. The section you see here, around the blue clock, is the original structure, Louis the 13th's hunting lodge. I have been struck by the color of the bricks here - they are a lovely pink, so if you can look past all the gold, try to notice the bricks.
I've visited a few castles and palaces in my time, I've seen movies about Versailles but I was not prepared for the size of both the palace and the grounds. This view is from the North Parterre (which apparently means 'beds', so I guess they're referring to the garden beds). The gardens were quite different - any flowers that were there, were boxed in by low trimmed hedges. The water in the ponds and pools looks quite dirty - one of them even had a sign indicating that it was toxic even to the touch! I had watched a show about how difficult it is for them to run the fountains with the original hydraulics, so I guess it shows in the quality of the water. The statuary is extensive and superb in a classical tradition.
I was struck by this collection from the pool shown above - The mermaid looks very relaxed and 'sumptuous'. The nymph (?) coming up behind her has a very devilish look on his face!
There are hundreds, if not thousands of statues around the place. There were a couple near the palace that caught my eye. I had to become very discerning about which ones I liked! It was the relaxed posture of this woman that I liked, plus I liked the folds of fabric between her feet. I don't know who she is, but by the end of my day of walking, I came to really appreciate her posture!I think she was on the edge of the South Parterre!
There were many cherubs. This little guy/gal was one of the sculptures around the Water Garden on the upper level of the terrace. I think he may have been with Neptune, but the expression on his face as he reached for the cornucopia appealed to me.
I am staying in an AIRBNB just five minutes walk from the palace, so it was easy to get there early in the morning. That gave me the privilege of getting views that were relatively free of crowds. I also had the benefit of a cloudy day and in the afternoon, pretty steady rain which kept people away. I had my rain-jacket to protect me and an umbrella to protect the camera, so I kept at it until my weary, jet-lagged body said 'no more'! This shows the view from the Water Terrace down to the Grand Canal, the body of water you see in the distance. It was dug in 1670 to provide a stunning visual focus for the estate and the gardens. It is shaped like a cross and was the site of nautical spectacles for over 100 years.
My goal on this first day was to explore the gardens. Oh my! What an ambition, I discovered. They are organized precisely. From afar, they may just look like woods, but within is a maze of fountains and groves and gardens. But there were no direct routes anywhere and many crisscrossing paths, so navigation was uncertain. This path headed down to one of the many gates that enters the gardens - I think it may have been the Queen's Gate. The gardens, though are free and open to the public, so should you be planning a visit, you can easily spend a day or more at no cost. I had planned to rent a bike, but the afternoon rain nixed that plan. It would have cost a bit less than 20 Euros.
The pathways were clearly defined with green wooden latticed fences in many places. If you turn to look over the fence, it is just woods - no manicuring there!
In other cases it was just a paling fence, and sometimes pretty old ones as that!
Sadly, many of them were closed off - although maybe that was just as well, as it was a lot to see without them. This was the Enceladus Grove.
This was rather unspectacular without the Obelisk Fountain going, but I enjoyed watching this young woman pose for her friends here. One nice thing about the many groves and paths is that it did not feel crowded, as there are many ways to get to the same place. I could imagine that there were many secret assignations taking place in all these very private spots!
Sometimes I came across a splash of roses. I always noticed that the rose depicted on English and French royal crests was very different from the lush and multilayered roses I was used to seeing. This was the first time I actually recognized the rose as it is used in heraldry. It was a bit of a thrill! The confusions of a teenage history student have been finally answered!
I have to admit I was also quite thrilled to find a pretty snails. I found a regular brown, garden snail too, but I hoped that this very attractive fellow was not the variety that gets served up in restaurants!
In addition to the fenced paths through the woods, there were beautiful avenues! They generally had three to five paths running parallel. The one in the center as you see here, gravel (or if it's raining - mud) paths on the outside of the trees and then there might be a hedgerow on either side with a path on the other side of it.
The electric cart gives you a perspective - it was truly glorious!
Some of the avenues were lines with statues. I thought these women taking a selfie together added a nice touch here.
Sometimes there were freestanding palms of other plants to provide variety. This was the Bacchus Fountain
I include this photo, as I had watched a movie, 'A Little Chaos' starring Kate Winslett that was set around it's creation. It's made of pebbles and shells and is called 'The Ballroom' or 'La Salle de Balle'. It is close to the palace, so it's possible they held balls here. It was also closed, but I stuck my camera in the gate as I thought the shells were a weird medium to use and I wanted a photo of them.
All I am able to do here is give you a snippet of my experience, so before you become as tired as I was, we should head back to the palace.
It was lovely to find that Latona's Fountain was operating on and off - it was the only active fountain I saw that day.
I enjoyed this statue nearby that depicted the man as a frog. I guess the French of that time were reading the same fairy stories that I grew up with. Notice the lovely reflections, too.
Finally, as I turned to leave, I was amused to find this crow photo-bombing my last shot of the Grand Canal, which was now busy with boats. It sits on top of statue in the middle of the Latona Fountain. Crows are supposed to represent 'magic and mystery' in our lives, Well I'd had a magical day and looked forward to the mystery tomorrow would bring inside the palace, so perhaps it was fitting to see him there!
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