Perhaps it's because it started as a tin mining town 160 years ago, or maybe that Malaysia as a nation is only 60 years old. Maybe it's because Kuala Lumpur literally means 'muddy estuary' because it was formed at the confluence of two rivers. Or, possibly, in spite of all my effort, I just didn't hit the 'right' spots. Whatever the reason, unless you like shopping and skyscrapers, I couldn't tap into a 'feeling' of this city, People seemed busy, often serious. Places were busy, but not crammed, but the greatest sense of joy I experienced were the Chinese tourists posing with their scarfs in Merdeka (Freedom) Square - the site where the flag of Malaysia was first flown.
Kuala Lumpur at Sunrise from the pool deck at Regalia Suites.
One Uber driver who had lived in Australia for a few years told me that they have to work all the time. People seem to live well - housing looks of decent quality, there are lots of cars - not so many motorbikes - and people dress nicely.
My second day started with a visit to the Kuala Lumpur Craft Complex, where I was told I could paint my own batik. Unlike the Textile Museum the previous day, it was as flat as a pancake. There were displays, but they seemed sad and untended and there was no English interpretation.
I did like the shadow puppets.......
........and there was lots of grass weaving.
The batik stamps were also intricate and lovely creations.
The buildings at the Craft Complex were shabby except for a few high end stores. There was supposed to be an artists colony at the back, but no one was working and it seemed quite uninspiring. So much so that I didn't bother to make my own batik.
Next I headed over to a market that Tripadvisor had described as 'yummy street food, amazing smells, great people watching'! Sounds like a good lunch stop, eh!
Perhaps it gets going at night, because there was hardly anyone there, half the places were closed and it was all Chinese and South-East Asian food - not a single Malaysian food stall!
So I ended up at a little tent nearby with plastic seats (which Chuck Mason would have approved of), where I could point to the food.
That way, I did have some Malaysian green fish, which tasted a bit like a huge sardine! Happily I like sardines.
Not to be let down by this shaky start, what better place to get a grasp of a country's pride than their memorial to fallen soldiers - so off I went in my GRAB ride to the National Memorial.
At least that was an improvement - the statue was large and dynamic, the setting was spacious.
However the fountain was not running and there was that evidence of lack of upkeep that just gives the feeling that it's about lip-service, not true pride.
It looked as if there were some nice green spaces for a walk back to Merdeka Square - close to the textile museum where I'd started yesterday. It is an area with a lot of heritage sites, so I hoped it might give me the taste I wanted.
There were some interesting sculptures in the garden, but the grass underfoot was odd - looked green and lush, but felt squishy and wet when I walked on it - almost like a skin that would just rip off if I slipped.
I did walk within view of Parliament House......
.......it reminded me a little of Florida's State Capital in Tallahassee - or about as inspiring!
Merdeka Square and surrounds was a bustle of activity with tourists.
The building that looked like a cross between a Swiss and Tudor Cottage was the Royal Selingor Club - a club that was founded in 1884 as a meeting point for educated and high ranking members of British Colonial Society.
With it's placement on the edge of a large field, it looks more like a cricket club - and apparently they do arrange matches - but it seems the role continues to be primarily social. I thought it was quite a quirky building, and if you read the history on Wikipedia, it does seem to have some odd stories connected with it.
Finally, I trekked to the Main Railway Station and Administration Buildings which were not far away. They were certainly fine pieces of architecture.
I was curious to discover that both the Post Office which is nearby ..........
,,,,,,,and the Main Railway Station looked very mosque-like. Did we build public buildings in the past to look like churches? I looked at my pictures of St. Pancras Railway Station from London, and there are church-like features in it's construction. I also recently visited a library at Yale University that was very church-like. Take a look around as you travel and see if you notice that.
The railway headquarters was also a very imposing building!
Here you see the headquarters on the left, with the main railway station on the right.
A nearby hotel had a concierge with colonial trimmings......
,,,,,,,,it was called the Hotel Majestic.
The final event of the day, and one that had more life than anything else I did here was a visit to Central Market.
It has been around a while, as you see from its entrance.
It also has a vibrant street market.
This collection of brilliant colored kites was unlike any other kites I've seen before.
I decided to walk home so really get a sense of the layout of the city and my apartment's location within it. On the way I stuck my camera through a fence hiding construction and discovered that it is actually the geographic and historic core of the city, as it is the confluence of the two rivers, the Gombak (on the left) and Klang River (on the right).
So, I did my best here, but my heart didn't soar, in spite of seeing all the right things - clean, good sidewalks, lots of development. It just didn't make my heart sing, I'm sorry to say.
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